Tamiya M-08
#527

I’m not using any additives, I haven’t even glued the tires to the wheels yet. I’m not doing serious racing or anything. Are additives a prerequisite to make these cars run smoothly?
I should maybe have asked this first: are m-class cars competitive with 4WD drive RC cars like XV-01, TT-02 or even Ta-02s?
I should maybe have asked this first: are m-class cars competitive with 4WD drive RC cars like XV-01, TT-02 or even Ta-02s?
-Do glue your tires.
-Additive can make a massive difference but only if your concrete floor has been swept first other wise the rubber just tries to grip dust

-Setup wise I would revert back to a soft-to-medium diff setting, but try adding lots of rear toe-in (4 degrees or more) and try 3 degrees camber front and rear.
#528
Tech Rookie

-The more slippery the surface, the bigger the gap between 2wd and 4wd will be. On very slippery surfaces like yours, 2wd does not stand a chance.
-Do glue your tires.
-Additive can make a massive difference but only if your concrete floor has been swept first other wise the rubber just tries to grip dust
. Spraying sugared water might also be an option... maybe.
-Setup wise I would revert back to a soft-to-medium diff setting, but try adding lots of rear toe-in (4 degrees or more) and try 3 degrees camber front and rear.
-Do glue your tires.
-Additive can make a massive difference but only if your concrete floor has been swept first other wise the rubber just tries to grip dust

-Setup wise I would revert back to a soft-to-medium diff setting, but try adding lots of rear toe-in (4 degrees or more) and try 3 degrees camber front and rear.
Toe-in made it stable, camber made the turning radius adequate. I wish it turned sharper, but I’m guessing the only thing I have left to adjust to get that is the diff, and I’m not sure if going lighter oil than the kit is a great idea.
#529

So long do I have to wait until the R comes out?
#531

Okay so need to ask, for racing TCS, what is the best handling body for the M-08?
#534

Has anyone run the Lotus Europa body?
#536

hiya M08 fans,
Does active rear toe help a RWD car? If so, it might be fun to fiddle with it.
have fun 2022!
Alexander
Does active rear toe help a RWD car? If so, it might be fun to fiddle with it.
have fun 2022!
Alexander
#537
Tech Rookie

Hi M08 gurus
I am not a racer but love the look of this chassis and wanted some input / advice for what setups you would use if you were going to try to drive on rough asphalt. I will be sticking the Ford Escort rally body on it and am looking for max ride height and as smooth a drive as possible.
It will only have a silvercan and primarily run on short, technical tracks that I build. I am not looking to make it as fast as possible, nor am I looking for absurd acceleration.
My primary goal is to have the softest suspension with the most travel and the smoothest acceleration but with nice progressive breaking.
I am comfortable driving RWD and will use some expo on both steering and throttle to calm it down. I will also be adding weight to both the chassis and body to keep it planted and give it a more realistic body roll.
Very interested in all of your thoughts re how you would set up, especially damper type, damper oil and springs, droop, whether to use stabilisers, what diff set up and anything else you think will make it smooth and as easy as possible to drive. I don’t expect it to handle like a 4wd but don’t want it fishtailing all the time nor rolling over.
I am not a racer but love the look of this chassis and wanted some input / advice for what setups you would use if you were going to try to drive on rough asphalt. I will be sticking the Ford Escort rally body on it and am looking for max ride height and as smooth a drive as possible.
It will only have a silvercan and primarily run on short, technical tracks that I build. I am not looking to make it as fast as possible, nor am I looking for absurd acceleration.
My primary goal is to have the softest suspension with the most travel and the smoothest acceleration but with nice progressive breaking.
I am comfortable driving RWD and will use some expo on both steering and throttle to calm it down. I will also be adding weight to both the chassis and body to keep it planted and give it a more realistic body roll.
Very interested in all of your thoughts re how you would set up, especially damper type, damper oil and springs, droop, whether to use stabilisers, what diff set up and anything else you think will make it smooth and as easy as possible to drive. I don’t expect it to handle like a 4wd but don’t want it fishtailing all the time nor rolling over.
#538

Decided over the Christmas break to buy & build a nice M08 for myself. This is my first rwd Mini or rc for that matter. Decided to steal the M Chassis TRF shocks off my M05, Added sways, Alum outdrives and rear alum shafts. At my local track my M05 V2 has set some good really good pace so I had something to go off of. After the build went right to the track & started dialing it in, I did match my M05 times on the first outing and just missing my fastest lap by a hair (no sways or alum bits at that time) I had ordered sway bars & some minor parts which arrived a week later. Went back to the track and every lap was amazing! The car decimated my fwd by a good amount and set the fastest times over & over for a M chassis. Overall super happy with the car, I can drive it very hard & consistent. I started with 7500 but settled for 10k on the diff fluid. I almost feel I can go a little more with the black carpet surface with an older layout but 10k seems to be perfect for med-high grip conditions
Some specs on the unit
-Tamiya Miata LW Body
-Tamiya Yellow Med Springs (Front)
-Tamiya Red Soft springs (Rear)
-Team powers Mini 32 Shore Tires (Front sidewall glued)
Electronics
Orca R32X Esc
Orca B1 21.5 Blitreme (20 tooth pinion)
Orca 6000 LCG Pack
Savox 1251 Servo
Sanwa 482
Option parts
-Tamiya Aluminum outdrives
-Tamiya Aluminum rear shafts
-Tamiya Sway bar set
-TRF M chassis shocks (3 hole 500 Cst)
Setup (Black CRC carpet)
-2 Front toe out
+2.6 Rear Toe
-1 Front camber
-1.5 Rear Camber
4.2mm Ride height front / rear
Front Shock position (Stock tower outer hole)
Rear shock position (Stock tower middle hole)
1mm Front wheel spacer added
.5mm Rear wheel spacer added
Diff Fluid 10,000
1mm Spacers on the Front inner & outer ball studs (Lower roll center)
No Spacers added on the rear ball studs for roll center change
Pictures were right after the initial build, I will update with the bling parts added in the near future


Some specs on the unit
-Tamiya Miata LW Body
-Tamiya Yellow Med Springs (Front)
-Tamiya Red Soft springs (Rear)
-Team powers Mini 32 Shore Tires (Front sidewall glued)
Electronics
Orca R32X Esc
Orca B1 21.5 Blitreme (20 tooth pinion)
Orca 6000 LCG Pack
Savox 1251 Servo
Sanwa 482
Option parts
-Tamiya Aluminum outdrives
-Tamiya Aluminum rear shafts
-Tamiya Sway bar set
-TRF M chassis shocks (3 hole 500 Cst)
Setup (Black CRC carpet)
-2 Front toe out
+2.6 Rear Toe
-1 Front camber
-1.5 Rear Camber
4.2mm Ride height front / rear
Front Shock position (Stock tower outer hole)
Rear shock position (Stock tower middle hole)
1mm Front wheel spacer added
.5mm Rear wheel spacer added
Diff Fluid 10,000
1mm Spacers on the Front inner & outer ball studs (Lower roll center)
No Spacers added on the rear ball studs for roll center change
Pictures were right after the initial build, I will update with the bling parts added in the near future



#539
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)

Finally! The first glimpse of the M-08R is on the horizon: https://tamiyablog.com/2022/01/futur...m-08r-chassis/
Glad I waited, but getting a standard M-08 got quite tempting, let me tell you!
Glad I waited, but getting a standard M-08 got quite tempting, let me tell you!
