Raman

iTrader: (85)

Yep.. there is a lot of variations with the Reedy FT. When I received mine, I opened it to clean it and there was a lot of junk in there.. very poor finish. I managed to increase rpm by 100 from shimming it.. that’s it.

My gripe with the reedy is that we had a Reedy M3 sonic spec that was just fine and then they changed to the FT. Which means paying out for a new motor. I hope they keep this motor for a few years.. as I run TCS once a year at my local track.

I still have a bad taste for the Ride 36. Like you I ran M06 last year and we were the guinea pigs for the tyre. Tamiya Spec’d them the Monday before but they would not arrive u TIL Friday. Wed I practiced with a set of ride 33 I had from my Top Sabre Mini... hoping they would be close in performance. I made some adjustments as a result.

Friday I received tyres and they were disastrous. I was way off pace. Frustrated I went home hoping traction would come up in the AM / Saturday. The first qualifier I did ok with the ride 36. Prior to second qual I learned that the top guys were running S grips. So a friend loaned me his, I ended up doing worse than first qual. Then for A main I went back to Ride 36 and even more disastrous.

I avoided running them this year. My fellow M08 racer went with them. He struggled.. I had a nice calm race.. just needed to be faster on corner exit

cementsurfer86

Yeah we were still on S-Grips for last year's NW regionals. I had done a bit of development work on a setup for both the S-Grips for regionals and the Rush/Team Powers 36's that we ran locally as a club.... mainly because the Rush's and TP's were longer-lasting and cheaper. Both setups were pretty close in the end, save for a ride height/droop change because of the diameter difference. This will be my first foray with the Ride 33 TCS tires, so that coupled with the new car should make for a lot of testing. I'm excited!

kometkamerat

Just got my M08 out on tarmac, and MAN does it oversteer! I can barely get on the throttle before it goes into a piruette. What weight oil you guys have in the diff? And any pro tips to get it to go straight? Setup looks very much like the example in a previous post by reubiracer except I've got 400 weight damper oil both front and back. (I've got good new slicks that works a charm on the M07).

And I bought a set of M-chassis aluminum dampers from Tamiya, but with the regular ends they are to short (I get a 1 mm ride height). On the M07 i fixed that with the short damper stays, but the M07 stays don't fit the M08 and there are no M08 versions out atm. You fixed that any way, or are you just useing regular 55mm TRF dampers for 1/10 touring cars?

cementsurfer86

I like using TC shocks with short shafts for the extra oil volume. These cars tend to need different damping than other cars because of the narrow track and short wheelbase. Too thin and they bounce. Too thick and the shock "packs" causing the car to be skittish. As for the oversteer, a lot of times I find that if I'm creating too much front grip (tires), it will cause the car to want to loop around and be difficult to provide power. Essentially the car is being pulled around by the front tires, which on a RWD car is no bueno. Try either a harder compound up front, or add a little negative camber first. If it still persists, then maybe try a stiffer oil/ spring combo. I'm starting with 500 up front on mine, but have yet to test.

kometkamerat

So, stiffer springs in the front than the back (?) And what oil do you use in the diff?

cementsurfer86

Shakedown went well last night at the Covid test track! Car tracks straight after shimming the steering and has a more crisp feel over my old M06.

Lots to work on, but even with a long way to go (setup-wise), the corner speed increase is noticeable, as is the balance.

OVA

iTrader: (86)

Okay Mr Raman
Just let you know .. it almost done ..waiting for esc and receiver

Raman

iTrader: (85)

Looking very good

OVA

iTrader: (86)

Forgot one more pic Thank you

Raman

iTrader: (85)

Adding these new bits today.. they some how arrived from Hong Kong

Raman

iTrader: (85)

You went TRF blue crack quickly 😆. Which caster plate is that? 0°, 4°?

OVA

iTrader: (86)

right now it is zero..I am going to get the 4 deg ..
right now it is very drive able without spinning out like crazy . I also have the ball diff to tryout
But I am running silver can..

tapanav

A Loose ball diff help a lot with the corner exit spin out in my testing. I would loosen it 15 degrees at a time until it stop spin out on throttle.

For a spin out on braking, make sure downstop/droop are equal left right. When lifting each end of the car, the left/right tires should leave the ground at the same time. Your car shouldn't spin out when braking in a straight line. More front toe out and reduce brake power also help.

OVA

iTrader: (86)

Yes I agreed about the ball diff .. but be careful not to loose diff too much , it will slip or heat up
I can gun the throttle and it will not spin out ...unless the track is dirty

ErikJan

When you use the 4° alu block, and the 0° M07 hubs, you can easily change the castor by adding shims under the front holes.
You can can use this table as reference (it is in Dutch, you will understand) (second edit: "ringen" is ofcourse in millimeter)