443LikesTamiya M-08
06-22-2020, 09:29 PM
#346
Last year we were the first track to have the rides 33.. literally announced 3 days prior. Turned it a s:;t show. Top guys ended up running S grips and winning. For this year we left it open choice. Ride or S Grip. 6 people ran Rides and 2 A Grip.
I was tempted to run the rides after the first main, but decided to stay the course and not make a drastic change
I was tempted to run the rides after the first main, but decided to stay the course and not make a drastic change
06-23-2020, 12:05 AM
#347
Looking at the setup, this is on carpet? Interesting that you in the US are allowed to race indoor. Here in Europe indoor racing is an absolute no go at this moment. But this is another discussion.
We have made good progress finding a nice asphalt set up. We race on a technical medium grip track with two straights that start with a hairpin.
Ride 36fr and 30rr works well, with similar to M07 laptimes. With Tamiya M-fr and S rr the balance is also ok, but about a full second slower (laptimes around 20sec).
We made some changes that helped a lot:
-use M07 0 degree hubs and a 4 degree alu plate and use small shims to correct the castor angle. We found 1.6 degree (0.75mm shims) works best with the Ride tires.
-for our track we used a ball diff, and this improved the drivability out of the tight corners a lot.
-remove the steering system, flip the servo and connect the steering links direct to the servosaver. We also tried this indoor, but outdoor the difference is huge.
We also tried different wheelbases and bodies, But hardly differences in laptimes found. On asphalt the L looks to be a little bit easier to drive.
Hopefully we can go back to racing somewhere in September, to find how the M08 goes in real competition.
We have made good progress finding a nice asphalt set up. We race on a technical medium grip track with two straights that start with a hairpin.
Ride 36fr and 30rr works well, with similar to M07 laptimes. With Tamiya M-fr and S rr the balance is also ok, but about a full second slower (laptimes around 20sec).
We made some changes that helped a lot:
-use M07 0 degree hubs and a 4 degree alu plate and use small shims to correct the castor angle. We found 1.6 degree (0.75mm shims) works best with the Ride tires.
-for our track we used a ball diff, and this improved the drivability out of the tight corners a lot.
-remove the steering system, flip the servo and connect the steering links direct to the servosaver. We also tried this indoor, but outdoor the difference is huge.
We also tried different wheelbases and bodies, But hardly differences in laptimes found. On asphalt the L looks to be a little bit easier to drive.
Hopefully we can go back to racing somewhere in September, to find how the M08 goes in real competition.
06-23-2020, 06:26 AM
#349
Thanks for sharing
Looking at the setup, this is on carpet? Interesting that you in the US are allowed to race indoor. Here in Europe indoor racing is an absolute no go at this moment. But this is another discussion.
We have made good progress finding a nice asphalt set up. We race on a technical medium grip track with two straights that start with a hairpin.
Ride 36fr and 30rr works well, with similar to M07 laptimes. With Tamiya M-fr and S rr the balance is also ok, but about a full second slower (laptimes around 20sec).
We made some changes that helped a lot:
-use M07 0 degree hubs and a 4 degree alu plate and use small shims to correct the castor angle. We found 1.6 degree (0.75mm shims) works best with the Ride tires.
-for our track we used a ball diff, and this improved the drivability out of the tight corners a lot.
-remove the steering system, flip the servo and connect the steering links direct to the servosaver. We also tried this indoor, but outdoor the difference is huge.
We also tried different wheelbases and bodies, But hardly differences in laptimes found. On asphalt the L looks to be a little bit easier to drive.
Hopefully we can go back to racing somewhere in September, to find how the M08 goes in real competition.
We have made good progress finding a nice asphalt set up. We race on a technical medium grip track with two straights that start with a hairpin.
Ride 36fr and 30rr works well, with similar to M07 laptimes. With Tamiya M-fr and S rr the balance is also ok, but about a full second slower (laptimes around 20sec).
We made some changes that helped a lot:
-use M07 0 degree hubs and a 4 degree alu plate and use small shims to correct the castor angle. We found 1.6 degree (0.75mm shims) works best with the Ride tires.
-for our track we used a ball diff, and this improved the drivability out of the tight corners a lot.
-remove the steering system, flip the servo and connect the steering links direct to the servosaver. We also tried this indoor, but outdoor the difference is huge.
We also tried different wheelbases and bodies, But hardly differences in laptimes found. On asphalt the L looks to be a little bit easier to drive.
Hopefully we can go back to racing somewhere in September, to find how the M08 goes in real competition.
06-23-2020, 12:26 PM
#350
Looking at the setup, this is on carpet? Interesting that you in the US are allowed to race indoor. Here in Europe indoor racing is an absolute no go at this moment. But this is another discussion.
We have made good progress finding a nice asphalt set up. We race on a technical medium grip track with two straights that start with a hairpin.
Ride 36fr and 30rr works well, with similar to M07 laptimes. With Tamiya M-fr and S rr the balance is also ok, but about a full second slower (laptimes around 20sec).
We made some changes that helped a lot:
-use M07 0 degree hubs and a 4 degree alu plate and use small shims to correct the castor angle. We found 1.6 degree (0.75mm shims) works best with the Ride tires.
-for our track we used a ball diff, and this improved the drivability out of the tight corners a lot.
-remove the steering system, flip the servo and connect the steering links direct to the servosaver. We also tried this indoor, but outdoor the difference is huge.
We also tried different wheelbases and bodies, But hardly differences in laptimes found. On asphalt the L looks to be a little bit easier to drive.
Hopefully we can go back to racing somewhere in September, to find how the M08 goes in real competition.
We have made good progress finding a nice asphalt set up. We race on a technical medium grip track with two straights that start with a hairpin.
Ride 36fr and 30rr works well, with similar to M07 laptimes. With Tamiya M-fr and S rr the balance is also ok, but about a full second slower (laptimes around 20sec).
We made some changes that helped a lot:
-use M07 0 degree hubs and a 4 degree alu plate and use small shims to correct the castor angle. We found 1.6 degree (0.75mm shims) works best with the Ride tires.
-for our track we used a ball diff, and this improved the drivability out of the tight corners a lot.
-remove the steering system, flip the servo and connect the steering links direct to the servosaver. We also tried this indoor, but outdoor the difference is huge.
We also tried different wheelbases and bodies, But hardly differences in laptimes found. On asphalt the L looks to be a little bit easier to drive.
Hopefully we can go back to racing somewhere in September, to find how the M08 goes in real competition.
06-28-2020, 02:58 PM
#352
Tech Rookie
How do you set up your dampers? I find that the regular M-class aluminum dampers are to short using the small/short enpoints/eyes, but it's to long using the long endpoints. On my M07 I fixed that using the low damper mounts for the short dampers. Do you use the M07 short damper mounts?
K.
K.
06-29-2020, 11:01 AM
#353
Sorry if this has already been covered, but I just picked up an M08 for some un-prepared street racing. This will be my first 2wd touring car, but I'm familar with Formula 1 cars. As such, F1 typically uses different compound front and rear tires, so I'm curious if there is a common approach to this platform? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance,
melon
Thank you in advance,
melon
06-29-2020, 07:29 PM
#354
Sorry if this has already been covered, but I just picked up an M08 for some un-prepared street racing. This will be my first 2wd touring car, but I'm familar with Formula 1 cars. As such, F1 typically uses different compound front and rear tires, so I'm curious if there is a common approach to this platform? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance,
melon
Thank you in advance,
melon
A type slicks are tough for asphalt, if someone pushes you wide off the race line and you pick up some dust you will swap ends.
Have no experience with Ride 33 on Asphalt
07-01-2020, 04:15 PM
#355
Kind of depends to class rules! If it’s open, I would advise S grips on 4 corners with M grips as an additional option for front.
A type slicks are tough for asphalt, if someone pushes you wide off the race line and you pick up some dust you will swap ends.
Have no experience with Ride 33 on Asphalt
A type slicks are tough for asphalt, if someone pushes you wide off the race line and you pick up some dust you will swap ends.
Have no experience with Ride 33 on Asphalt
07-04-2020, 06:03 AM
#356
Tech Initiate
Hello guys! Hope all is well.
Anyway im cons getting this one. Is the m08 any good?
Thank you
Anyway im cons getting this one. Is the m08 any good?
Thank you
07-04-2020, 09:43 AM
#358
Tech Initiate
07-04-2020, 09:53 AM
#359
Hop Ups.. as I’ve gotten older, I focus on functional hop ups versus looks. So I would recommend
1. front and back carbon towers
2. TRF M chassis dampers, either origins, M Chassis big bore or TRF SSBB. All will be fine
3. 54810 M07 D parts and 51596 M07 B parts. These are the front suspension plate and 4°castor upright from M07. Install these instead of the M08 as the ones in the kit are like peanut brittle. They’re over engineered design by Tamiya and will eventually need to be addressed
This is all you need. Don’t bother with aluminium steering as it still has plenty of slop. Just shim the stock plastic ones and you will be fine.
07-04-2020, 10:01 AM
#360
Tech Initiate
If it’s an indoor carpet track, go for the M08. If it’s outside, get the 07.
Hop Ups.. as I’ve gotten older, I focus on functional hop ups versus looks. So I would recommend
1. front and back carbon towers
2. TRF M chassis dampers, either origins, M Chassis big bore or TRF SSBB. All will be fine
3. 54810 M07 D parts and 51596 M07 B parts. These are the front suspension plate and 4°castor upright from M07. Install these instead of the M08 as the ones in the kit are like peanut brittle. They’re over engineered design by Tamiya and will eventually need to be addressed
This is all you need. Don’t bother with aluminium steering as it still has plenty of slop. Just shim the stock plastic ones and you will be fine.
Hop Ups.. as I’ve gotten older, I focus on functional hop ups versus looks. So I would recommend
1. front and back carbon towers
2. TRF M chassis dampers, either origins, M Chassis big bore or TRF SSBB. All will be fine
3. 54810 M07 D parts and 51596 M07 B parts. These are the front suspension plate and 4°castor upright from M07. Install these instead of the M08 as the ones in the kit are like peanut brittle. They’re over engineered design by Tamiya and will eventually need to be addressed
This is all you need. Don’t bother with aluminium steering as it still has plenty of slop. Just shim the stock plastic ones and you will be fine.
i plan on getting both, eventually 😅 mo7 and 8. But since i have an m05 i think ill ill go with mo8 first.
Yes id rather build it practically and not for bling. Just pure performance and needed hopups.
I dunno what has gotten into me. I used to really dislike the m chassis. But last may, i think i i got bit by the M chassis bug. Maybe its because its relatively easier to sneak past the wife than big scts 😅😅😅🤣
Went from owning 0 m-chassis kits to 5 kits in 2 months. 😅 And still planning to buy.the m07 and m08.