389LikesTamiya M-08
07-01-2019, 09:01 AM
#152
The TRF Ti is very good quality.. a bit pricey, but worth it for me. The gauge is thicker than the steel rods at the centre. The kit steel rods also bend very easily.. I left those on my TT02 S and eventually all were bent after racing.
The camber and steering settings keep much better with the Ti rods
And in my experience from cycling, Titanium doesn’t bend. It flexes and returns to original shape. If you arrive at a point at which flex has reached its maximum, it shatters / breaks.
The camber and steering settings keep much better with the Ti rods
And in my experience from cycling, Titanium doesn’t bend. It flexes and returns to original shape. If you arrive at a point at which flex has reached its maximum, it shatters / breaks.
Last edited by Raman; 07-01-2019 at 09:11 AM.
07-01-2019, 09:09 AM
#153
It will be interesting to see with the mid motor setup of M08, where I will end up. Diff for certain needs to be thick
07-01-2019, 10:01 AM
#154
The only M chassis I have raced has been M06 Carpet. My approach to the car has been with F1 in mind. Tight diff, rear shocks oil thicker and stiffer spring. Front softer oil and softer spring. Droop, almost nil in front and good amount in rear.
It will be interesting to see with the mid motor setup of M08, where I will end up. Diff for certain needs to be thick
07-01-2019, 06:39 PM
#157
The rear body mounts are suited for the old Mini Cooper body which is no longer available. Having to poke holes in my Alfa roof did not make me happy.
On the older kits you could flip the mounts but not on the 07/08.
Front body mounts lined up perfectly with the dimples already on body.
Small note on the front steering uprights. For the axle stud you add two 0,5 spacers on stud and then push through bearing. After bearing you out the blue spacer and then outer bearing. Then Tamiya suggests to add a shim before the pin. Follow this exactly!
On my TC cars I usually put the shim behind the bearing inside the hub. Won’t work on this car. It pushes the bearing out and creates some odd play.
Also the outer bearing protrudes.. this is normal! Lol
On the older kits you could flip the mounts but not on the 07/08.
Front body mounts lined up perfectly with the dimples already on body.
Small note on the front steering uprights. For the axle stud you add two 0,5 spacers on stud and then push through bearing. After bearing you out the blue spacer and then outer bearing. Then Tamiya suggests to add a shim before the pin. Follow this exactly!
On my TC cars I usually put the shim behind the bearing inside the hub. Won’t work on this car. It pushes the bearing out and creates some odd play.
Also the outer bearing protrudes.. this is normal! Lol
07-01-2019, 08:32 PM
#158
The rear body mounts are suited for the old Mini Cooper body which is no longer available. Having to poke holes in my Alfa roof did not make me happy.
On the older kits you could flip the mounts but not on the 07/08.
Front body mounts lined up perfectly with the dimples already on body.
Small note on the front steering uprights. For the axle stud you add two 0,5 spacers on stud and then push through bearing. After bearing you out the blue spacer and then outer bearing. Then Tamiya suggests to add a shim before the pin. Follow this exactly!
On my TC cars I usually put the shim behind the bearing inside the hub. Won’t work on this car. It pushes the bearing out and creates some odd play.
Also the outer bearing protrudes.. this is normal! Lol
On the older kits you could flip the mounts but not on the 07/08.
Front body mounts lined up perfectly with the dimples already on body.
Small note on the front steering uprights. For the axle stud you add two 0,5 spacers on stud and then push through bearing. After bearing you out the blue spacer and then outer bearing. Then Tamiya suggests to add a shim before the pin. Follow this exactly!
On my TC cars I usually put the shim behind the bearing inside the hub. Won’t work on this car. It pushes the bearing out and creates some odd play.
Also the outer bearing protrudes.. this is normal! Lol
07-02-2019, 12:36 PM
#160
07-02-2019, 12:59 PM
#162
I have enough parts (or so I thought) to build a few trf dampers.. touring and m chassis. So I figure rather than buy a whole kit, I would just build a set for my m chassis from spares and buy damper cylinders that were on deep discount at Tam USA
I was that Tamiya USA was discounting these, which are the HL version of the 42273... so I thought why not.. it would only be $20.. WRONG lol.
Https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/option-parts/rc-hl-cylinder-2pcs-2/
I contacted Tamiya USA and inquired if these used the same top cap and bottom cap as the 54000 M chassis.. they said it did. Well as it turns out
- Top Cap is low profile arg!
07-02-2019, 01:48 PM
#163
The rear body mounts are suited for the old Mini Cooper body which is no longer available. Having to poke holes in my Alfa roof did not make me happy.
(The JCW bodies have been discontinued for some time, yet I loved them so much and decided to buy a bunch up as soon as I saw them selling out and stock not being replaced). -It sucks to have to drill extra holes in it.
Of course you went w/ the Alfa body!!!
What color you going to paint it, -silver or red???
07-02-2019, 02:28 PM
#164
I had to do the same thing w/ my Mini JCW body when I mounted it on my M07.
(The JCW bodies have been discontinued for some time, yet I loved them so much and decided to buy a bunch up as soon as I saw them selling out and stock not being replaced). -It sucks to have to drill extra holes in it.
Of course you went w/ the Alfa body!!!
What color you going to paint it, -silver or red???
(The JCW bodies have been discontinued for some time, yet I loved them so much and decided to buy a bunch up as soon as I saw them selling out and stock not being replaced). -It sucks to have to drill extra holes in it.
Of course you went w/ the Alfa body!!!
What color you going to paint it, -silver or red???
07-04-2019, 01:38 AM
#165
We had some intensive training sessions last night with the M08 and did some back to back races to the trusted M07. We race on a nice asphalt track medium to high grip, https://www.erceracing.nl/images/sto...ircuit-new.jpg
Both cars I run almost stock, only options so far are TRF dampers. Both cars with the same MX5 body. We tested the M08 with the Carson 16T motor, that is the most used motor here at club and Tamiya races. Because of the torque you feel the difference out of the corner where the M08 accelerates faster if the set up is well.
First we started with the tires. On the M07 the combi Ride30-32/33 works very well, lap times around 20.8. We tried this on the M08 as well, and that gave too much steering and an unstable car that looks like to be diffing out. Ride SC30/32 at the rear and 36/38 at the front gives a better drivable car (21.4) with good traction, good turn in and good balance in the corner. We also tried Tamiya tires as a preparation to the TamiyaCup final that will be run on our circuit in two months. Sgrip at the back, is fine, at the front we tried everything from S-A-M-grip with all insert combi and ended up with M grip with a very soft insert. Not the fastest, but the best drivable.
The kit springs and damper oil feels very thin at the build, and it is also at the track. We went up in oil thickness and the car was immediately easier to drive. We also tried some stiffer springs (red/yellow). The M08 is not very sensitive on changes of the springs and it looks like a bit stiffer springs at the rear works better. Kit very soft springs up front and red at the rear was fine.
The M08 is very sensitive on droop, just a quarter turn can be a huge difference. We reduced rear droop and increased at the front.
After over 100 laps it was enough for a wednesday evening and we made up our conclusions; in laptime we still miss about half a second on our very well dialed in M07. In this highly competitive class that is a lot. But...our M08 is not dialed yet, while the M07 is. The construction is very good, nothing went lose or was damaged. For next session we will need to try a set of swaybars and we want to try a bit harder diff oil (4k/5k) and will also try some adjustment on the suspension and position of the shocks.
Both cars I run almost stock, only options so far are TRF dampers. Both cars with the same MX5 body. We tested the M08 with the Carson 16T motor, that is the most used motor here at club and Tamiya races. Because of the torque you feel the difference out of the corner where the M08 accelerates faster if the set up is well.
First we started with the tires. On the M07 the combi Ride30-32/33 works very well, lap times around 20.8. We tried this on the M08 as well, and that gave too much steering and an unstable car that looks like to be diffing out. Ride SC30/32 at the rear and 36/38 at the front gives a better drivable car (21.4) with good traction, good turn in and good balance in the corner. We also tried Tamiya tires as a preparation to the TamiyaCup final that will be run on our circuit in two months. Sgrip at the back, is fine, at the front we tried everything from S-A-M-grip with all insert combi and ended up with M grip with a very soft insert. Not the fastest, but the best drivable.
The kit springs and damper oil feels very thin at the build, and it is also at the track. We went up in oil thickness and the car was immediately easier to drive. We also tried some stiffer springs (red/yellow). The M08 is not very sensitive on changes of the springs and it looks like a bit stiffer springs at the rear works better. Kit very soft springs up front and red at the rear was fine.
The M08 is very sensitive on droop, just a quarter turn can be a huge difference. We reduced rear droop and increased at the front.
After over 100 laps it was enough for a wednesday evening and we made up our conclusions; in laptime we still miss about half a second on our very well dialed in M07. In this highly competitive class that is a lot. But...our M08 is not dialed yet, while the M07 is. The construction is very good, nothing went lose or was damaged. For next session we will need to try a set of swaybars and we want to try a bit harder diff oil (4k/5k) and will also try some adjustment on the suspension and position of the shocks.
