Panther6834

iTrader: (2)

Currently, I have six (technically, five, as I haven’t actually started building the 6th) off-road RCs – two 1/8 4WD buggies, 1/10 4WD short course truck, 1/10 2WD short course truck, 1/10 2WD buggy, 1/10 4WD stadium truck – and am about to select my first on-road vehicle. The “problem” is, I’m uncertain as to what to get…thus, I am in need of some assistance. I already have my body selected – 1/10 190mm Touring GT (body meets all 1/10 GT requirements, including USGT & ROAR IFMAR) – but am interested in knowing what the best chassis choices currently are. While I’m uncertain as to whether, or not, I’ll actually end up racing, I’d prefer to have a “competition-grade” vehicle...not something just for "bashing", if you catch my drift (speaking of "drift", I am not interested in "drifting").

I know there are numerous possibilities, such chassis kits from XRAY, CRC, SWorkz, Yokomo, MST, Team Associated, Tamiya, Serpent, Schumacher, Kyosho, Mugen, and others. I also know there are 2WD & 4WD variants (ONLY interested in 4WD), as well as those with a chassis choice of either aluminum or carbon fiber. So as to not make this too complicated, for anyone responding, if you could list your top 3 choices, in order (and, if you’re able/willing, the advantages & disadvantages of each in comparison to your other two). Also, for those kits having a choice between aluminum & carbon fiber, which would be better? Again, the “advantages & disadvantages” of aluminum vs carbon would help. With the exception of 1/10 buggies, there are (at least as far as I am aware) very few off-road vehicles where a carbon chassis is offered, thus I’m unfamiliar in this area.

Unfortunately, unlike technology products (computers, cell phones, TVs, etc), it’s near impossible to get comparison information online for RC vehicles…thus, turning to those who are ‘in-the-know’ is the only realistic option. In regards to pricing, while I’m familiar with off-road kit pricing, the opposite is true where on-road vehicles are concerned. If I were to take a “guess”, I’d figure that any kit under $200 (again, I’m just guessing) would not be “competition-worthy”, and anything above $600 might be above my price-range, primarily because there will be additional items to purchase. I’m not looking for “the best of the best”, but I also don’t want something that will need to be replaced in a year or two. I don’t want anything that would be “toy quality”, but, at the same time, I don’t mind paying “extra” for something that’s higher-quality, and is more durable. Something in the $300-450 would be best...but, if need-be, I could probably go as high as $550.

So…hit me with your best shot(s)…………………………..

trigger

iTrader: (15)

A second hand Xray T4 18 is an excellent choice for budget, competitiveness, and durabilty. 19' parts can be options.

AW106

Personal thoughts
Tamiya TRF418/9, or TA07MS - Sliglty hard to find used and not the cheapest to buy but in my experience they have one of the best levels of spares support and commonly broken parts like suspension arms are lower cost than rivals (Side not I've been running a Tamiya for 3 years and have broken 1 C hub and 1 front arm in that entire time)
Xray T4 would have to be on the list, very popular. Not one I'e driven but I know several who own them. Again plenty of options but I'd say they're on the higher side with cost.
Another good option I'd think would be the Yokomo BD8, again not one I've owned bt know some who do. Very capable car though maybe harder

As for Alloy Vs carbon chassis. Carbon is the standard generally for most TC's. Alloy is generally used on very high grip surfaces

man1ac

Even though I am not a racer, I maybe can help you:

First I wouldn’t say that any < 200$ kit isn’t competition worth. I’d say that’s point blank wrong. Sure you wont see any of the “lower cost” grade kits at any professional race, but that’s not because these lowcost kits are bad.
I think that any kit you can buy for money (from a Sakura XI Sport NU for 100$, to a Xpress XQ1s for 130, a VBC Ghost to a 600$ Awesomatix/Associated/Xray) is capable of winning any club or local race in the right hhands.ForTouring car kits Setup, driver, especially tires will outweigh every chassis you possibly could drive. As long as wear isn’t a thing it really doesn’t matter if the diff outdrives are plastic or whatnot. Using lightweight bodies will make you quite easy faster than any 100$ on a chassis could or will.
I drive a TC7.1 and spoke with a ETS pro driver at the track. He said that compared to his car (Awe) the older TCs could be about 0.2s per lap slower (10s laptime at our track), but that’s mainly because his car is 100% dialed in. I gave him my car and it took him 3 laps to driver faster than my best time – so yea…working on that, because I now know that I am limiting factor and not the car.

For recommendation: Buy yourself a used roller from the last 1-2 years, save a sh*tload of money on the kit and have fun. A car doenst make you fast and consistent. If you are both, a current gen car for 600$ will maybe make you a bit faster, that’s it.

(I think its even more fun to race against 1000$ cars with a cheapo and beat the crap outta them. Its so much fun to see them annoyed, because they realize its them that is slow J)

Same thing for alum vs. carbon chassis: Yes to some drivers it may have a influence, but for 99% of all people it wont. I’d go for the carbon version, just because carbon cant bend and its not that hard to bend a chassis.

If you want to buy new I’d look for the Xpress kits, Sakura Advance 2k18 or any kit in the 200$ range. Really no need to spent more.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Correct, higher dollar chassis in USGT does not make as much a difference as in 17.5t: a very good racer finished 2nd at an Indiana event with a (non modded) tub tc4 not too long ago.....If you can get a relatively new chassis from a top racer for cheap, go for it.....

man1ac

I think even in any other class except Mod it wont be such a big difference either. Yesterday I ran with a friend who "found" his old CRC Touring car from 2008. Last work on the car was at least 4 years ago. He put some new tires on it and after 2 batteries he was as fast as me with his 17.5 from 8 years ago (he IS a better driver and holding the lap record with his pancar).

Panther6834

iTrader: (2)

I'm getting a strong impression that those who have replied have misread/misunderstood what I was asking in creating this thread. I am NOT looking for the "fastest" chassis. Anyone can take the cheapest chassis, put a high-power motor in it, as well as the 'right' gearing, and turn it into the fastest vehicle anyone has ever seen...but, I'm not some "speed demon" trying to break RC speed records. What I AM interested in (beyond the body fitment matter) is a quality & durable chassis, with easy-to-come-by parts (at least within the US...if parts are easily obtainable in the UK, or Asia, but not the US, that doesn't really help me). I want a 1/10 190mm chassis that can fit the Bittydesign AGATA body, is "race capable" (even though it probably won't be used as a 100% race-only vehicle, it will be used 90+% on track), is durable, made of quality parts, and doesn't cost a fortune. I don't mind paying for quality, but I don't want to pay for something that's "above my level".

theproffesor

iTrader: (66)

Panther6834

iTrader: (2)

First...yup, I should have mentioned the track...sorry. The primary track (NorCal Hobbies) is an outdoor track. In reality, they take the front parking lot, and, on Saturdays (and some Sundays), they convert it into an on-road track:


The secondary track, located at Sheldon's Hobbies (also in San Jose) was recently changed, from a flat track, to a multi-level track, plus they are now "catering" to drift vehicles:


I didn't say I'd be racing 90=% of the time...I said the vehicle will be used on a track 90+% of the time (a combination of racing, and practice / play). The other 10% (or less), it will see street / parking lot / etc use. As there are no carpet tracks (that I'm aware of) in the area, it won't see any carpet use, so no worries about "destroying tires". Between the two tracks, the only racing would be at NorCal Hobbies...but, that's also where part of the problem is. As I mentioned, their on-road racing is only held on Saturdays (with the occasional Sundays). I work most Saturdays (usually in the morning, and into the afternoon), which is the same hours that racing is held (ie. 7:30am to 1pm), thus talking to others there becomes somewhat difficult (they don't tend to be very "talkative" during race-time). The next time I'm at NorCal, I'm already planning on asking where most of the on-road racers practice the rest of the week, thus I would be able (if I'm not working) to talk with some of them "wherever they go"...but there's also no guarantee they practice locally. I do know that some NorCal racers come to San Josew from as far as Sacramento (a 2hr drive from San Jose).

belewis01

iTrader: (4)

My 1st 2 touring cars were used - 2 year old Yokomo followed by a 2 year old X-Ray - I paid about $150 each off of local racers and built them both up for USGT.

NorCal normally races on Sunday - I believe it's 1st and 3rd Sunday of the month. 3rd Saturday of the month is practice. USGT is one of the bigger classes, along with VTA, 17.5TC and 21.5 TC.

NorCal carries Associated, and stocks most parts. I'd say X Ray and Associated are the most popular, followed by Awesomatix. I just moved from X Ray to Yokomo BD9, and like it very much. If you don't get an Associated, you'll need to bring some spare parts - typically front suspension arms, c-hubs and steering blocks. Come on down next race and say hi.

Delta RC in Antioch runs black carpet, it's a very small track - I ran USGT and VTA there with a carbon chassis and did very well. They also practice during the week, but the track alternates between on-road and off-road, so check the schedule.

During the winter we run carpet in Stockton - it's been grey carpet for awhile, but that could change.

Bruce

Panther6834

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the answer. For one thing, coming from someone who's familiar with NorCal is "bonus points". I'll also ask Todd, as he might know who else to ask.. While he's more familiar with buggies, since he's probably there more on the weekdays, he should be easier to locate on a weekday. Before I created this thread, I had already created a mental short-list, but I was looking for additional input from those already familiar with this type of vehicle. Essentially, said list consisted of the XRAY T4, Yokomo BD9, Team Associated TC7.2, Tamiya TA07 Pro, Schumacher Mi6 Evo, and Mugen Seiki MTC1.

Initially, the T4 & BD9 were both on that list, but have been (for the greatest part) removed. While I really do like them, both are more than I wanted to spend (ESPECIALLY the T4, although I’m sure I could figure out a way to afford the BD9). Plus, as some have pointed out, replacement parts for the T4 can cost up to twice that of most other brands. It’s for these reasons that both have (essentially) been removed from consideration. Moving onto those still under consideration (unless anyone can come up with other possibilities)……….

The TA07 Pro is much more affordable, plus replacement parts are easily accessible, but the build instructions are about the worst I’ve ever seen (not just for RC vehicles, but anything, including IKEA furniture), as they left me seriously confused. Moving over to the MTC1, which is just slightly above the upper end of what I initially wanted to spend, its manual threw me off, albeit, only slightly…while not as clearly-defined at the Team Associated, XRAY, & Yokomo manuals, it’s considerably better than the Tamiya manual…plus, I still really like it (not sure why…I just do). The Mi6 Evo would also be a strong possibility. While I like the design, price, and build manual, as with the MTC1, I'm uncertain about the availability of replacement parts, especially from LHSs. Finally, as for the TC7.2, being that I have an SC6.1 (albeit, still in the box, waiting to have the time to build it), and being familiar with their build instructions, it was already a “top contender”. Like the BD9 & MTC1, the Associated TC7.2 is also slightly more than I wanted to pay…but, on the (huge) “plus side”, parts are readily available, and replacement part prices are much more reasonable.

If you (as well as anyone else who reads this) were somewhat on a budget (ie. the XRAY is seriously beyond your budget, and the Yokomo is (probably) also beyond), between the remaining choices (Team Associated TC7.2, Tamiya TA07 Pro, Schumacher Mi6 Evo, and Mugen Seiki MTC1), what would be your order of preference? In considering these possibilities, please also take into consideration the quality of the kit, durability/reliability of the parts, readability of the build instructions, cost of replacement parts, and ease of finding/purchasing (especially from an LHS) said replacement parts.

trigger

iTrader: (15)

ARC

scarfiotti

The multi-level track looks awesome!
Really something more than the usual flat tracks....

Panther6834

iTrader: (2)

True...but, it's primary purpose is for drift racing. Thus, while I can use it for practice, I'd probably only be able to do so when there's no drifters on the track, as I'll be driving a TC...once I decide on what to get, which is currently my "problem" (and why I created this thread). Yes, I've narrowed the choices, but still having difficulty determining a "winner" (or, at least, 2-3 "finalists").

moparSRT

3Racing XI sport, The fiberglass chassis is perfect for parking lot racing, parts easily available in the US from distributors located on both coasts, car is very durable and comes with everything you need in the box (including sway bars), unlimited options available when ur ready to upgrade. You can get 2 for $200 shipped to your door

3RACING XI SPORT NU