Stiff rear sway bar
#1
Stiff rear sway bar
Running 13.5, tried to use stiffer rear sway bar and the car break lose at mid of corner and then back to traction when throttle applied. What would you do to get more mid corner rear traction while still using the stiffer sway bar?
#3
thanks, already using the stiffest F sway bar.
#4
Try softer rear springs, more rear toe
#5
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
Swaybars always reduce traction in corners. This is an unavoidable side effect, because swaybars prevent the suspension from conforming to the track surface when the chassis tries to lean in corners. (and the chassis will always try to lean in corners, no matter how stiff you make the suspension, because all of the cornering force is coming from the bottom surface of the tires, well below the car's center of mass.) If you need more traction, you have to come up with a different way to solve whatever problem you're trying to correct by using swaybars.
Why do you need such a stiff rear swaybar in the first place? Is the car wandering randomly when accelerating in a straight line? (as opposed to consistently pulling in the same direction, which is a different problem.) Random wandering when accelerating is the only scenario I've encountered where a stiff rear swaybar is the only solution. If you're just trying to keep the tires vertical when cornering to maintain maximum contact patch, then adjust your rear suspension geometry instead. Move the inboard upper link mounts down, or move the outboard upper link mounts up, depending on what your chassis allows. Then you won't need such a stiff rear swaybar anymore.
Why do you need such a stiff rear swaybar in the first place? Is the car wandering randomly when accelerating in a straight line? (as opposed to consistently pulling in the same direction, which is a different problem.) Random wandering when accelerating is the only scenario I've encountered where a stiff rear swaybar is the only solution. If you're just trying to keep the tires vertical when cornering to maintain maximum contact patch, then adjust your rear suspension geometry instead. Move the inboard upper link mounts down, or move the outboard upper link mounts up, depending on what your chassis allows. Then you won't need such a stiff rear swaybar anymore.
#6
Tech Adept
Swaybars always reduce traction in corners. This is an unavoidable side effect, because swaybars prevent the suspension from conforming to the track surface when the chassis tries to lean in corners. (and the chassis will always try to lean in corners, no matter how stiff you make the suspension, because all of the cornering force is coming from the bottom surface of the tires, well below the car's center of mass.) If you need more traction, you have to come up with a different way to solve whatever problem you're trying to correct by using swaybars.
Why do you need such a stiff rear swaybar in the first place? Is the car wandering randomly when accelerating in a straight line? (as opposed to consistently pulling in the same direction, which is a different problem.) Random wandering when accelerating is the only scenario I've encountered where a stiff rear swaybar is the only solution. If you're just trying to keep the tires vertical when cornering to maintain maximum contact patch, then adjust your rear suspension geometry instead. Move the inboard upper link mounts down, or move the outboard upper link mounts up, depending on what your chassis allows. Then you won't need such a stiff rear swaybar anymore.
Why do you need such a stiff rear swaybar in the first place? Is the car wandering randomly when accelerating in a straight line? (as opposed to consistently pulling in the same direction, which is a different problem.) Random wandering when accelerating is the only scenario I've encountered where a stiff rear swaybar is the only solution. If you're just trying to keep the tires vertical when cornering to maintain maximum contact patch, then adjust your rear suspension geometry instead. Move the inboard upper link mounts down, or move the outboard upper link mounts up, depending on what your chassis allows. Then you won't need such a stiff rear swaybar anymore.
#9
#10
I will run lighter sway bars to reduce grip on that end of the car. A stiffer sway bar should not cause your car to spin out and I would suggest something else is going on with the setup, tweak, camber, droop, etc.. I would suggest investing in the RCMaker setup book as it will guide you through this exact example as well as many others.