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Roche Rapide P12 Evo 1/12th Competition Kit

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Roche Rapide P12 Evo 1/12th Competition Kit

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Old 01-03-2019, 05:19 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Roche Rapide P12 Evo 1/12th Competition Kit
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Last edit by: hanulec
Questions/Answers:
Q1. Will the P12 Evo support a traditional style steering servo setup?
A1. Yes. The chassis supports this, but parts are not included.

Q2. Will the P12 Evo support prior Roche P12 front ends featuring a Xenon lower arm?
A2. Yes. Prior front ends will directly bolt on to the new P12 Evo chassis

Q3. What is the maximum size servo width that can be used on the P12 Evo?
A3. Maximum servo width is 33mm

Q4. Which servos fit into the P12 Evo?
A4. (not a complete answer -- working on building up a list)
  • Sanwa SGR-HR (must cut off the top/bottom additional case pieces)
  • Sanwa SRG-HS (must cut off the top/bottom additional case pieces)
  • KO Propo RSx3-12 Digital Mini Servo
  • Futaba High Voltage BLS671SV S.Bus2 HV SX Mini Servo
  • Hitec HS-7235MH Hi-Voltage "Hi-Speed" Metal Gear Digital Mini Servo
  • XPert MI-3301

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Old 02-18-2019, 10:06 PM
  #106  
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Drop a 22mm post in that vacant hole between the cube and the battery retainer. Remove the extender from the shock. Reduce your droop from 2mm to 1.25 if you're on a smooth track. Move your ackerman to 1.0 or 1.5. Try either Roche white front springs or AE 18 as the Xenon's are a short throw spring. Make your front droop 1.0mm. CRC 45 sides are waaayyy toooo soft, go to Roche White or yellow "touching" if your grip will allow it. Switch to long rear wheelbase, rotates more. When you do all that, you may find you do not want that camber gain for stock. You may want no shims above the steering block and all on top of the eyelet. Yes, you can get the car to carve hard, but you'll scrub the speed at entry too much with a spool. I don't know what SM Red is for tube lube, but if it's close to 15-20k, you should be in the ball park. Keep going stiffer on tube lube until it starts lifting the inside tire, then back down some.
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Old 02-19-2019, 08:31 AM
  #107  
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Any issues with the chassis not being perfectly flat? A guy I race with has had 5 or 6 Roche cars and even brand new every aluminum chassis he has got has been warped a bit.
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Old 02-19-2019, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Drop a 22mm post in that vacant hole between the cube and the battery retainer. Remove the extender from the shock. Reduce your droop from 2mm to 1.25 if you're on a smooth track. Move your ackerman to 1.0 or 1.5. Try either Roche white front springs or AE 18 as the Xenon's are a short throw spring. Make your front droop 1.0mm. CRC 45 sides are waaayyy toooo soft, go to Roche White or yellow "touching" if your grip will allow it. Switch to long rear wheelbase, rotates more. When you do all that, you may find you do not want that camber gain for stock. You may want no shims above the steering block and all on top of the eyelet. Yes, you can get the car to carve hard, but you'll scrub the speed at entry too much with a spool. I don't know what SM Red is for tube lube, but if it's close to 15-20k, you should be in the ball park. Keep going stiffer on tube lube until it starts lifting the inside tire, then back down some.

Track is very smooth with medium grip on most days. I'll switch over to the even shorter shock setup with 1.25mm of droop and long wheelbase. I have some AE.18 front springs I'll try. For side springs I have CRC .50, and Roche Gold Mediums on hand.
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Old 02-19-2019, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by trilerian View Post
Any issues with the chassis not being perfectly flat? A guy I race with has had 5 or 6 Roche cars and even brand new every aluminum chassis he has got has been warped a bit.
Nope. I've built 3 since xmas, all have been the finest 12's I've ever built.
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Old 02-19-2019, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Running 1 tube is no different feeling then 2 tubes. It's easy to over think it's effect. The reason 1 tube is used is because its common to run 10k or 15k with a spool on black. With dampening that light, in order to get the same effect in 2 tubes, you'd run 5-7K. It runs out of the tube causing it to be rebuilt more frequently. So....1 tube, twice the oil weight, half the work, same effect.
Nice! And, you get the added benefit of being able to route the wires more cleanly :-)

Thanks Brian!
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Old 02-20-2019, 03:19 AM
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Originally Posted by trilerian View Post
Any issues with the chassis not being perfectly flat? A guy I race with has had 5 or 6 Roche cars and even brand new every aluminum chassis he has got has been warped a bit.
If 5+ chassis are warped I would start to question the "flat" surface. I'd suggest testing on glass.

We've seen new chassis not be 100% flat. None that I've seen look like I've just finish running mod 1/12 with them (if you get what I mean...)
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Old 02-20-2019, 08:16 AM
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I bought a Roche P12 Evo US Spec from a guy on here last night. I am going to piece together a ball diff to have as an option to the spool and I have never used a Slapmaster thrust bearing before, so I'm not sure which kit I need for the Roche. Also, I am assuming that I won't need the to order the stock cone spacer or the belleville washes either, is that correct?
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Old 02-20-2019, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by dway100 View Post
I bought a Roche P12 Evo US Spec from a guy on here last night. I am going to piece together a ball diff to have as an option to the spool and I have never used a Slapmaster thrust bearing before, so I'm not sure which kit I need for the Roche. Also, I am assuming that I won't need the to order the stock cone spacer or the belleville washes either, is that correct?
Cone no but the Belleville washers while not required give a bigger range of adjustment for the diff when using the Slapmaster kit.
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Old 02-20-2019, 03:21 PM
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Is servo saber a must in 1/12 class I was using aluminium servo horn and in small crash destroyed internal gear, thanks
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Old 02-21-2019, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Nuno Gancho View Post
Is servo saber a must in 1/12 class I was using aluminium servo horn and in small crash destroyed internal gear, thanks
I think you've just answered your own question :-)

If you hit stuff, use a servo saver. If you're a pro and get free servo's, don't use a servo saver.
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Old 02-22-2019, 04:24 AM
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Old 02-22-2019, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by iTz Nicholas72 View Post
Looks good!
Did you compensate for the rim offset?
I had to shim the rear axle out to get to 172mm then use an unflanged bearing on the outside of the front rims and add more shim to the axles.
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Old 02-23-2019, 06:07 AM
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Thanks for the help Slapmaster6000 and sg1. Attached my starting setup for tomorrow.
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Old 02-28-2019, 07:00 PM
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Just building my first P12 Evo, and I'm having two issues:

I mistakenly ordered a Xpert MM-3301 servo rather than the MI-3301. However, the dimensions are identical, and since Brian has shown the MI-3301 fits perfectly, I thought I would be ok. I went to assemble the servo mount tonite, and while the servo mount will fit over the servo (in the longer configuration), the servo mounting holes do not line up (too close to the servo body) to the floating mount holes, and even if the holes did line up the ears of the servo interfere with the steering rack - it's simply too big. From inside to inside of the mounting holes on the servo mount, I get 36.1mm, and on the servo 38.6mm. Not even close. Are the mounting holes on the MI-3301 closer to the servo body?

I do have a couple Airtronics servos that are on my CRC CK25's, but they look to be too small, lol.

The other issue I'm having is that the o-ring on the shock retainer simply won't fit - it's too big (circumference). I've tried everything I know, including cooling the o-ring down to get it to shrink a bit, and no dice. It won't fit. Anyone else run into this issue?

Bit annoyed right now - I was hoping to have the build done tonite, but I don't think it's happening.
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Old 02-28-2019, 07:04 PM
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Actually, after looking closely at pictures of the MH and MI-3301's, it does look like the MI version's mounting holes are closer to the body. See these links for pics:

MM: https://www.xpert-rc-us.com/product/...luminum-servo/
MI: https://www.xpert-rc-us.com/product/...luminum-servo/

So, I think I've answered that question. I'll have to get the MI version.

Still have the o-ring issue tho.
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