54LikesRoche Rapide P12 Evo 1/12th Competition Kit
01-03-2019, 05:19 PM - Wikipost
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02-18-2019, 10:06 PM
#106
Drop a 22mm post in that vacant hole between the cube and the battery retainer. Remove the extender from the shock. Reduce your droop from 2mm to 1.25 if you're on a smooth track. Move your ackerman to 1.0 or 1.5. Try either Roche white front springs or AE 18 as the Xenon's are a short throw spring. Make your front droop 1.0mm. CRC 45 sides are waaayyy toooo soft, go to Roche White or yellow "touching" if your grip will allow it. Switch to long rear wheelbase, rotates more. When you do all that, you may find you do not want that camber gain for stock. You may want no shims above the steering block and all on top of the eyelet. Yes, you can get the car to carve hard, but you'll scrub the speed at entry too much with a spool. I don't know what SM Red is for tube lube, but if it's close to 15-20k, you should be in the ball park. Keep going stiffer on tube lube until it starts lifting the inside tire, then back down some.
02-19-2019, 09:29 AM
#108
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
Drop a 22mm post in that vacant hole between the cube and the battery retainer. Remove the extender from the shock. Reduce your droop from 2mm to 1.25 if you're on a smooth track. Move your ackerman to 1.0 or 1.5. Try either Roche white front springs or AE 18 as the Xenon's are a short throw spring. Make your front droop 1.0mm. CRC 45 sides are waaayyy toooo soft, go to Roche White or yellow "touching" if your grip will allow it. Switch to long rear wheelbase, rotates more. When you do all that, you may find you do not want that camber gain for stock. You may want no shims above the steering block and all on top of the eyelet. Yes, you can get the car to carve hard, but you'll scrub the speed at entry too much with a spool. I don't know what SM Red is for tube lube, but if it's close to 15-20k, you should be in the ball park. Keep going stiffer on tube lube until it starts lifting the inside tire, then back down some.
Track is very smooth with medium grip on most days. I'll switch over to the even shorter shock setup with 1.25mm of droop and long wheelbase. I have some AE.18 front springs I'll try. For side springs I have CRC .50, and Roche Gold Mediums on hand.
02-19-2019, 11:03 AM
#109
Originally Posted by trilerian
Any issues with the chassis not being perfectly flat? A guy I race with has had 5 or 6 Roche cars and even brand new every aluminum chassis he has got has been warped a bit.
02-19-2019, 06:58 PM
#110
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
Running 1 tube is no different feeling then 2 tubes. It's easy to over think it's effect. The reason 1 tube is used is because its common to run 10k or 15k with a spool on black. With dampening that light, in order to get the same effect in 2 tubes, you'd run 5-7K. It runs out of the tube causing it to be rebuilt more frequently. So....1 tube, twice the oil weight, half the work, same effect.
Thanks Brian!
02-20-2019, 03:19 AM
#111
Originally Posted by trilerian
Any issues with the chassis not being perfectly flat? A guy I race with has had 5 or 6 Roche cars and even brand new every aluminum chassis he has got has been warped a bit.
We've seen new chassis not be 100% flat. None that I've seen look like I've just finish running mod 1/12 with them (if you get what I mean...)
02-20-2019, 08:16 AM
#112
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
I bought a Roche P12 Evo US Spec from a guy on here last night. I am going to piece together a ball diff to have as an option to the spool and I have never used a Slapmaster thrust bearing before, so I'm not sure which kit I need for the Roche. Also, I am assuming that I won't need the to order the stock cone spacer or the belleville washes either, is that correct?
02-20-2019, 01:00 PM
#113
Originally Posted by dway100
I bought a Roche P12 Evo US Spec from a guy on here last night. I am going to piece together a ball diff to have as an option to the spool and I have never used a Slapmaster thrust bearing before, so I'm not sure which kit I need for the Roche. Also, I am assuming that I won't need the to order the stock cone spacer or the belleville washes either, is that correct?
02-20-2019, 03:21 PM
#114
Is servo saber a must in 1/12 class I was using aluminium servo horn and in small crash destroyed internal gear, thanks
02-21-2019, 11:15 AM
#115
Originally Posted by Nuno Gancho
Is servo saber a must in 1/12 class I was using aluminium servo horn and in small crash destroyed internal gear, thanks
If you hit stuff, use a servo saver. If you're a pro and get free servo's, don't use a servo saver.
02-22-2019, 05:53 AM
#117
Originally Posted by iTz Nicholas72
Did you compensate for the rim offset?
I had to shim the rear axle out to get to 172mm then use an unflanged bearing on the outside of the front rims and add more shim to the axles.
02-23-2019, 06:07 AM
#118
Thanks for the help Slapmaster6000 and sg1. Attached my starting setup for tomorrow.
02-28-2019, 07:00 PM
#119
Just building my first P12 Evo, and I'm having two issues:
I mistakenly ordered a Xpert MM-3301 servo rather than the MI-3301. However, the dimensions are identical, and since Brian has shown the MI-3301 fits perfectly, I thought I would be ok. I went to assemble the servo mount tonite, and while the servo mount will fit over the servo (in the longer configuration), the servo mounting holes do not line up (too close to the servo body) to the floating mount holes, and even if the holes did line up the ears of the servo interfere with the steering rack - it's simply too big. From inside to inside of the mounting holes on the servo mount, I get 36.1mm, and on the servo 38.6mm. Not even close. Are the mounting holes on the MI-3301 closer to the servo body?
I do have a couple Airtronics servos that are on my CRC CK25's, but they look to be too small, lol.
The other issue I'm having is that the o-ring on the shock retainer simply won't fit - it's too big (circumference). I've tried everything I know, including cooling the o-ring down to get it to shrink a bit, and no dice. It won't fit. Anyone else run into this issue?
Bit annoyed right now - I was hoping to have the build done tonite, but I don't think it's happening.
I mistakenly ordered a Xpert MM-3301 servo rather than the MI-3301. However, the dimensions are identical, and since Brian has shown the MI-3301 fits perfectly, I thought I would be ok. I went to assemble the servo mount tonite, and while the servo mount will fit over the servo (in the longer configuration), the servo mounting holes do not line up (too close to the servo body) to the floating mount holes, and even if the holes did line up the ears of the servo interfere with the steering rack - it's simply too big. From inside to inside of the mounting holes on the servo mount, I get 36.1mm, and on the servo 38.6mm. Not even close. Are the mounting holes on the MI-3301 closer to the servo body?
I do have a couple Airtronics servos that are on my CRC CK25's, but they look to be too small, lol.
The other issue I'm having is that the o-ring on the shock retainer simply won't fit - it's too big (circumference). I've tried everything I know, including cooling the o-ring down to get it to shrink a bit, and no dice. It won't fit. Anyone else run into this issue?
Bit annoyed right now - I was hoping to have the build done tonite, but I don't think it's happening.
02-28-2019, 07:04 PM
#120
Actually, after looking closely at pictures of the MH and MI-3301's, it does look like the MI version's mounting holes are closer to the body. See these links for pics:
MM: https://www.xpert-rc-us.com/product/...luminum-servo/
MI: https://www.xpert-rc-us.com/product/...luminum-servo/
So, I think I've answered that question. I'll have to get the MI version.
Still have the o-ring issue tho.
MM: https://www.xpert-rc-us.com/product/...luminum-servo/
MI: https://www.xpert-rc-us.com/product/...luminum-servo/
So, I think I've answered that question. I'll have to get the MI version.
Still have the o-ring issue tho.
