Help with wet car build
#1
Tech Initiate
Thread Starter
Help with wet car build
I am planning on building a spare Schumacher Mi5 as a wet car, if I can get some help with the questions below that would be great.
1. 4 or 6 degrees of caster
2. narrow or wide wheel hexes
3. 2.5mm or 2mm chassis
4. more or less rear toe
5. more or less camber
6. rear or mid motor
7. Any other tips?
1. 4 or 6 degrees of caster
2. narrow or wide wheel hexes
3. 2.5mm or 2mm chassis
4. more or less rear toe
5. more or less camber
6. rear or mid motor
7. Any other tips?
#2
Stainless ball bearings if you can afford them!
Don't bother with anti roll bars.
Don't bother with anti roll bars.
#3
What so you mean by wet car? You plan to drive in the rain?
#4
Tech Prophet
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#5
#6
Oh did not know that.
#7
Tech Initiate
Thread Starter
#8
Tech Prophet
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we’ve talked about this in our group. Before I started racing I used to love running after a rain. I’d love to give it a shot. It might actually level the field, or even give me the advantage. But it’s a small group and not enuff are willing to try it. Plus the guys that host it are understandably concerned about their timing computer getting wet.
#9
I am planning on building a spare Schumacher Mi5 as a wet car, if I can get some help with the questions below that would be great.
1. 4 or 6 degrees of caster 4deg
2. narrow or wide wheel hexes Depends on whether their are puddles or not for me but normally narrower
3. 2.5mm or 2mm chassis Whatever is standard, but probably thinner.
4. more or less rear toe Less
5. more or less camber I run the same
6. rear or mid motor Sorry, can't help with that
7. Any other tips? No roll bars (unless there are puddles), make sure your electrics work in the wet before worrying about anything else
1. 4 or 6 degrees of caster 4deg
2. narrow or wide wheel hexes Depends on whether their are puddles or not for me but normally narrower
3. 2.5mm or 2mm chassis Whatever is standard, but probably thinner.
4. more or less rear toe Less
5. more or less camber I run the same
6. rear or mid motor Sorry, can't help with that
7. Any other tips? No roll bars (unless there are puddles), make sure your electrics work in the wet before worrying about anything else
#10
I only used one chassis for all weathers this year, but it really took a hammering. Wasn't super optimized for wet or dry but a good balance for both, survived Cotswold Clubman's with no problems!
#11
Tech Adept
What tyres would you run?
#12
Tech Initiate
Shimizu D01J wet tyres offer a surprising amount of grip. Set up wise most people run 1k oil rear diff, raise roll centres and possibly take roll bars off.
Theres a waterproof Sanwa receiver - the 481WP, Sanwa PGS-CL waterproof servo and Hobbywing do a waterproof XR10 Pro ESC. You can put conformal coating on your motor sensor board and some plastidip on the sensor cable connectors. Don’t run a fan if there’s standing water as it’ll break.
We race outdoors all winter.
Theres a waterproof Sanwa receiver - the 481WP, Sanwa PGS-CL waterproof servo and Hobbywing do a waterproof XR10 Pro ESC. You can put conformal coating on your motor sensor board and some plastidip on the sensor cable connectors. Don’t run a fan if there’s standing water as it’ll break.
We race outdoors all winter.
#13
Tech Initiate
Thread Starter
#14
Tech Champion
iTrader: (102)
I found it strange upon coming to the US, to see races canceled because of rain, lol. I had a rain Motor and Radio Tray for my 1/8 Buggy and 1/8 IC 4wd car, as well as a Rain Pro-10 & TC.
Kiss makes the rain tyres we used for 1/8 and in Pro10 we ran foams that had TC treads glued over.
- its probably a given, but no motor fan, lol dont need the inside of your car turning into a car wash!
Kiss makes the rain tyres we used for 1/8 and in Pro10 we ran foams that had TC treads glued over.
- its probably a given, but no motor fan, lol dont need the inside of your car turning into a car wash!