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Gearing VS timming question

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Gearing VS timming question

Old 11-10-2018, 02:26 PM
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Yeah, no one understands, just delete this thread. LOL
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Old 11-10-2018, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by tbrymer View Post
Yeah, no one understands, just delete this thread. LOL
really ? I think Bert explained it perfectly
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Old 11-10-2018, 02:49 PM
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LOL
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Old 11-10-2018, 10:07 PM
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Your motor has a sweet spot. Think of a bell curve in the middle of an x-y plot. Up the left is torque and across the bottom 0-30000 rpm. It converts current to torque the best right int he middle of the curve. So if the car spends most of its time or it averages in the middle of this curve the car will be most efficient. but you have gearing that makes a mess of things.

so you have to calculate the average speed and current required for a specific track with telemetry. Add up all the currents and speeds for a lap and divide by the number of samples and it will tell you your average speed requirement and current requirement. Then calculate the FDR you need to keep the motor average speed in the middle of the curve most of the time.

you can then set your throttle end point to control the max speed so that you dont creep into the bad side of the curve that generates too much heat.
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Old 11-10-2018, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by tbrymer View Post
Yeah, no one understands, just delete this thread. LOL
It's simple. I'm cheating by not using the required equipment in a spec class but i don't want to be to obvious about it. how can I tone things down? decreasing the timing or changing gearing which I don't want to.
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Old 11-10-2018, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by porsche928gs View Post
It's simple. I'm cheating by not using the required equipment in a spec class but i don't want to be to obvious about it. how can I tone things down? decreasing the timing or changing gearing which I don't want to.
its simple indeed, i dont have the budget to change elect, im trying to make do with what i have laying around for the time being... we r just having fun and not racing for medals or anything... if there was a proper organized race id either have to get proper gear or not race... for meanwhile its just practice....

anyways, indeed great information gathered here and made me look at things differently, and I havent checked the temp but i have a good feeling im already pushing it with current timming setup on current gearing and I indeed have to test as advised to get proper temps FIRST then sync with other racers...

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Old 11-10-2018, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by b3master View Post
its simple indeed, i dont have the budget to change elect, im trying to make do with what i have laying around for the time being... we r just having fun and not racing for medals or anything... if there was a proper organized race id either have to get proper gear or not race... for meanwhile its just practice....

anyways, indeed great information gathered here and made me look at things differently, and I havent checked the temp but i have a good feeling im already pushing it with current timming setup on current gearing and I indeed have to test as advised to get proper temps FIRST then sync with other racers...
I understand your point but no matter what you do if you are winning, people will always complain. I had run a class before that did 80amp trackstar esc blinky with 21.5 trackstar motor. Like you I did not want it to spend money on a new esc and was running a HW2.1 120 amp with a 21.5 trackstar motor and people didn't like it that I was winning and said it was because a .0001ohm diference in the esc resistance. I bought the cheap esc later and it was the same outcome.
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Last edited by porsche928gs; 11-11-2018 at 01:17 AM.
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Old 11-11-2018, 09:37 AM
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The problem is if you can't really drive and so you try to compensate by increasing the timing in your ESC. You end up being to fast in straights and end up screwing everyone else in the race.
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Old 11-11-2018, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by tbrymer View Post
The problem is if you can't really drive and so you try to compensate by increasing the timing in your ESC. You end up being to fast in straights and end up screwing everyone else in the race.
Actualy i had already previously mentioned im at perfect speed with all in the straight (hence same top speed) i started this thread to see if at all possible to gain runtime without having cancelation occuring of higher gear and lower timming...

just because im a new comer they wanted an easy meal, they cant get over me running with them without proper tires, body or wing, and wanted to blame the electrics like porsche said ppl will complain using any excuses when your a threat to them...

Last edited by b3master; 11-11-2018 at 10:31 AM.
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Old 11-11-2018, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by b3master View Post
Actualy i had already previously mentioned im at perfect speed with all in the straight (hence same top speed) i started this thread to see if at all possible to gain runtime without having cancelation occuring of higher gear and lower timming...

just because im a new comer they wanted an easy meal, they cant get over me running with them without proper tires, body or wing, and wanted to blame the electrics like porsche said ppl will complain using any excuses when your a threat to them...
IMO is that you already have the motor and gearing where you need it to maintain your straight away speed and just looking for more run time. I would use a higher milliamp battery to increase the car runtime.
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