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Gizmo Racing USA Genesis TC Kit

Old 01-08-2021, 08:27 AM
  #646  
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So much to elaborate.

But I'll try to be brief as I am on a bit of a time crunch.

Plastic knuckles are good for prototyping, but there is a lot of stress on the lower ball threads. We used Yokomo BD8 knuckles initially to test out the suspension and they were ok, but they would strip the lower threads in hard collisions. You cannot use too long of a stud or it will hit the DS Joint or mess the roll center up. Aluminum is a must if you ask me.

The Bulkeads are pretty strong for the most part. We have discovered some slight bending sometimes in the lower portion if you are running on tracks with hard outer barriers they may bend sometimes. But this is not common.

The knuckle design was initially set up to do same hole top and bottom. We actually added the hole to the outside to make the ability to use a longer arm due to our drive train layout. when testing, we tried using the tradional length hole up top giving kingpin inclination and we liked it. There is a bit of a camber loss with this when turning, so we compensated with about 1 more degree of caster. The biggest benefit is the reduced steering scrub for much more precise steering and better leverage on the tire and bearings.

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Old 01-08-2021, 09:14 AM
  #647  
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
So much to elaborate.

But I'll try to be brief as I am on a bit of a time crunch.

Plastic knuckles are good for prototyping, but there is a lot of stress on the lower ball threads. We used Yokomo BD8 knuckles initially to test out the suspension and they were ok, but they would strip the lower threads in hard collisions. You cannot use too long of a stud or it will hit the DS Joint or mess the roll center up. Aluminum is a must if you ask me.

The Bulkeads are pretty strong for the most part. We have discovered some slight bending sometimes in the lower portion if you are running on tracks with hard outer barriers they may bend sometimes. But this is not common.

The knuckle design was initially set up to do same hole top and bottom. We actually added the hole to the outside to make the ability to use a longer arm due to our drive train layout. when testing, we tried using the tradional length hole up top giving kingpin inclination and we liked it. There is a bit of a camber loss with this when turning, so we compensated with about 1 more degree of caster. The biggest benefit is the reduced steering scrub for much more precise steering and better leverage on the tire and bearings.
Wow thanks very much for that interesting insight! Great to see people to also enjoy that part of the hobby.
I had the same experience trying to design sufficient thread length into the knuckle, that's why I was curious. With the C-hub suspensions, some of the crash forces are diverted to the c-hub and bushings, so I wasn't sure how much more stress there is. Schumacher Mi7 seem to have beefy knuckles, but only plastic threads, too.
Reading your blog I also had the impression, that you had the alu knuckle with two holes only for 2 different lower arm lengths. Studying the effect of kingpin inclination, I also found it to be negative for RC racing in the sense of reducing camber (as no-one needs steering weight feel). I too increased caster a bit to end up with pretty much zero jacking effect.
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