A Ilievski

iTrader: (39)

mac853

OK, i would sand the protectors then see what would succeed.

Thank you!

DaSilva3525

Anyone have the issue with the center Motor plate (The T plate) Tweaking up the chassis when tightening down? I put two .2 mm Shims under the T plate and then .1 mm shims above it where it bolts to the two pieces of the motor mounts. Made a huge difference with no getting the chassis all tweaked up when tightening it down. Seems Yokomo should of had more material under that T plate to start with. It was driving me nuts looking throughout the car, un did the bolts before shimming and felt it release right away.

drsfly

Center Bulkhead plate is directional.
If installed upside down it will force tweak into chassis plate if tightened down .... to the point of chassis damage.

That was also highlighted in the Petitrc.com pointers page.
The bulkhead plate has just a slight ridge, and if it is up instead of down as would seem counter-intuitive.
Pg 8 of instructions points it out with the "direction of part" notation.

Good racing.

DaSilva3525

I had it the right direction from the start, but I did see that direction highlight. Even so the gap between the two motor mount pieces to the T plate is enough when you tighten it down it puts pressure on them both.

drsfly

"the gap between the motor mount pieces to the t plate"------there should be no gap between the parts. If there is then yes that is a problem. Both the motor mount half and the center bulk head should be flush mount pieces ... just like upper bulkheads to lowers, meaning no gap if even .1mm.
The .2mm shim, which if I understand your description, is on the cap head screws from underneath and would just extend them down by that much unless the shim was oversized and touched the chamfered hole. But you already know that as well.


I probably should have just said....no, not having any issues.
Me getting track time is an issue!


Good luck.

MidwestRacer

Yes I have tweaked a couple under a hard front impact as well as the front mount also. I Highly recommend running a screw through the chassis into T plate and front pitch control mount. I run long screws and use nuts to hold down the center weight/ pitch control rod. Running screws up through the bottom of the car into the plates also helped lock in the rear of the car.

MidwestRacer

They are tight, but it was described on Yokomo tuning tips as well as in the manual. Run them tight as made. In 2 heats, they will be broke in and free. They last much longer if you do not sand them.

Dane

iTrader: (26)

I trimmed the front front bottom shock eyelet by 0.8mm but I can't get the front shock length to 7.1mm. Best I can get is 7.7-.8mm. Any ideas?

ha5

7.1 its whitout cut, the cut its recomended for big diameters tires, the shaft lengt whit cut needs to be 7.9mm

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

BD9 New option parts released

mac853

What is difference between B9-SSS192 and B9-SSS19?
I guess is the shaft, right?

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Dane

iTrader: (26)

Does anyone have excess play in the layshaft? Spinning the drivetrain seems noisy from the layshaft.

DaSilva3525

I experienced this as well. I used a .1x6 shim on each side to get it nice. The reason for the 6mm inner diameter vs 5mm is because the 5 won't fit over the ridge on the shaft when you assemble. I ran it for one day without shims because I had none of the 6mm and under load it was ok but knowing there was play bothered me lol.