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Yokomo BD9

Old 03-23-2019, 07:02 PM
  #331  
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Originally Posted by Brian10811
Hey guys,

I have been spinning the idea around about selling my Xray T4 18 AL. and buying the new BD9 AL for black carpet racing. If I buy the kit do you recommend me buy anything additional other than some extra parts just in case I clip a corner to hard?
Thanks for your input.
Other than recommended black carpet setup springs from the team drivers, keep your optional xray springs as some setups like them. Maybe kit weights if you like those instead of regular lead ones and 4.5 optional hexes. Spares like you said, arms,c hubs, uprights ect.
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Old 03-23-2019, 09:35 PM
  #332  
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Originally Posted by porsche928gs
Other than recommended black carpet setup springs from the team drivers, keep your optional xray springs as some setups like them. Maybe kit weights if you like those instead of regular lead ones and 4.5 optional hexes. Spares like you said, arms,c hubs, uprights ect.
Get the BD9 30 gram weight if you run TC, 50 gram weight if you run USGT. I'd save the X Ray springs as well - I use them because I know them.
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Old 03-25-2019, 09:45 PM
  #333  
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Originally Posted by Brian10811
Hey guys,

I have been spinning the idea around about selling my Xray T4 18 AL. and buying the new BD9 AL for black carpet racing. If I buy the kit do you recommend me buy anything additional other than some extra parts just in case I clip a corner to hard?
Thanks for your input.
I highly recommend the aluminum spool outdrives. This is the only part I had fail in a whole season of racing. Also, I would now recommend putting a screw through the chassis in the motor mount T plate through the pitch control plate or center weight with a nut on top. Hard crash caused T plate to get a nasty tweak and I had to replace it.
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Old 03-28-2019, 06:04 AM
  #334  
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Could someone tell if need to glue flange side of solid axle, please?

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Old 03-28-2019, 06:13 AM
  #335  
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I didn't and it works fine. No issues, even after hard impact. So I'd guess its not a must, however, I don't see any harm in doing it. I'd suggest removing the spool and bearings before gluing. I don't think you'd want the glue to get into the wrong places
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Old 03-28-2019, 06:57 AM
  #336  
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Originally Posted by snip3r66
mac853

I didn't and it works fine. No issues, even after hard impact. So I'd guess its not a must, however, I don't see any harm in doing it. I'd suggest removing the spool and bearings before gluing. I don't think you'd want the glue to get into the wrong places
Do you know what, i feel yokomo's manual are not very helpful on the tips as xray, it just recommend you only glue on side of lower deck but other carbon parts has not any recommendation, as i broke before shock tower with glue on edges.
Even in xray recommend to glue those 3 front screws holes of lower deck.
I just yet to know if should glue that "Y" bone of rear.

Thank you!
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Old 03-28-2019, 07:31 AM
  #337  
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Originally Posted by mac853
Do you know what, i feel yokomo's manual are not very helpful on the tips as xray, it just recommend you only glue on side of lower deck but other carbon parts has not any recommendation, as i broke before shock tower with glue on edges.
Even in xray recommend to glue those 3 front screws holes of lower deck
I beg to differ. In general and not trying to be brand specific or bias.
Applying glue to the exposed sides of carbon parts could potentially affect its performance in terms of flex and other characteristics. Those who do it, is either for aesthetic reasons and or preventive measures in the event of a bad crash resulting in delimination of the CF. Crashing is a driver/s error, not all but,most of the time. There may be other causes, RX failure, TX low batt etc. With advancement in electronics and technology, EP cars are can go as fast, if not, faster then its GP counter parts (of same scale) which has stronger parts to make it last. Yet there is still a possibility of totalling a GP car in a bad crash. EP cars are designed with power to weight ratio in mine, to max its performance.

Applying glue to the screw holes (for reinforcement purpose) could potentially mean that the screws might get glued to the chassis, (due to hot weather and the glue melts slightly, or not waiting for the glue to properly cure before screwing) could result in difficulty in removing them and ending up with a stripped screw when u need to remove them.

End state do what makes u happy and feel secure. It's about choice. More importantly, try not to crash and wreck the car. Easier said than done, I know, been there, done that, wrecked chassis, shock towers, arms, top deck, u name it, I've wrecked it before.

Just sharing my personal opinions and advise from pros, whom took the time and effort to explain to me, why they do what they do.
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Old 03-28-2019, 07:35 AM
  #338  
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Originally Posted by snip3r66
I beg to differ. In general and not trying to be brand specific or bias.
Applying glue to the exposed sides of carbon parts could potentially affect its performance in terms of flex and other characteristics. Those who do it, is either for aesthetic reasons and or preventive measures in the event of a bad crash resulting in delimination of the CF. Crashing is a driver/s error, not all but,most of the time. There may be other causes, RX failure, TX low batt etc. With advancement in electronics and technology, EP cars are can go as fast, if not, faster then its GP counter parts (of same scale) which has stronger parts to make it last. Yet there is still a possibility of totalling a GP car in a bad crash. EP cars are designed with power to weight ratio in mine, to max its performance.

Applying glue to the screw holes (for reinforcement purpose) could potentially mean that the screws might get glued to the chassis, (due to hot weather and the glue melts slightly, or not waiting for the glue to properly cure before screwing) could result in difficulty in removing them and ending up with a stripped screw when u need to remove them.

End state do what makes u happy and feel secure. It's about choice. More importantly, try not to crash and wreck the car. Easier said than done, I know, been there, done that, wrecked chassis, shock towers, arms, top deck, u name it, I've wrecked it before.

Just sharing my personal opinions and advise from pros, whom took the time and effort to explain to me, why they do what they do.
Really, affect car performance?
But you don't recommend to glue edge of shock towers and upper deck?

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Old 03-28-2019, 07:50 AM
  #339  
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Originally Posted by mac853
Really, affect car performance?
But you don't recommend to glue edge of shock towers?

Best regards
I personally have glued both the sides of the CF and the screw holes and I am speaking from experience when I said what I said.
As for affecting the flex, performance and all, might sound far fetched for some to believe, hence I said "could potentially affect" performance

For recommendation, I'd say its about choice. You way the pros and cons, look around, walk the pit areas, check out the pros, talk to someone who knows and decide if what I have shared makes any sense. Or u could probe further, to make a more informed decision

I have since stopped applying glue to the exposed CF, since BD7'14. I have been through BD7'13, 14, 15, BD8' 17, and eventually BD9

I'd say enjoy the build, drive it and have fun.

Last edited by snip3r66; 03-28-2019 at 07:54 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 03-28-2019, 08:27 AM
  #340  
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I don't glue any of my CF parts for the reason of effecting a slight flex change like mentioned above.. never had an issue.

Btw I just build up a new BD9 for superstock.. It's amazing Will post back with pics
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Old 03-28-2019, 08:29 AM
  #341  
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I don't glue the edges of my CF parts because life is way too short!
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Old 03-28-2019, 02:35 PM
  #342  
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Sealing the chassis was never an issue from 98 up until now. Has something changed so drastically in materials that a sealed chassis is felt by a regular racer and they can say for sure if affected their lap times?
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Old 04-03-2019, 11:02 PM
  #343  
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Could someone tell me if others have any issue with diff cups and joint protectors, please?
Which my car's ones are too tight then provoke sluggish in rear arms movement.
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Old 04-03-2019, 11:12 PM
  #344  
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Originally Posted by mac853
Could someone tell me if others have any issue with diff cups and joint protectors, please?
Which my car's ones are too tight then provoke sluggish in rear arms movement.
They are tight by design, and they will break in. This is documented in the instructions - I believe it was a separate sheet in with the protectors.
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Old 04-04-2019, 12:31 AM
  #345  
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Originally Posted by belewis01
They are tight by design, and they will break in. This is documented in the instructions - I believe it was a separate sheet in with the protectors.
Oh really?
But i cannot see nothing on my manual.
Thank you anyway!
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