Like Tree321Likes

Yokomo BD9

Old 12-23-2018, 10:12 PM
  #196  
Tech Adept
 
MidwestRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 125
Default

I was running an Exotek P-Zero body. I run a Futaba OS Speed T-1 servo, Hobbywing XR10 Pro Stock V4, Trinity motor and Powers 6500HV LGP. Ran the front link as short as possible, 1 1/2 degree neg camber, no arm sweep and 1 degree toe out. I'd have to check on spacers on ball studs. Rear was at 2.6 degree toe in set up with 3 out and 4 in on the block inserts to widen the rear slightly. Second shortest camber link length hole. 1mm suspension block spacers all around. Box springs front and rear, 32.5 associated oil, f/r shocks in center holes. 5mm front 5.2mm rear ride height with 2.5mm actual droop. I run a 100 tooth spur and 45 tooth pinion to move the motor more forward on the mount, makes the car more dynamic. The track was Black CRC with medium grip for its kind.
MidwestRacer is offline  
Old 12-23-2018, 11:04 PM
  #197  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 9,940
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by MidwestRacer
I was running an Exotek P-Zero body. I run a Futaba OS Speed T-1 servo, Hobbywing XR10 Pro Stock V4, Trinity motor and Powers 6500HV LGP. Ran the front link as short as possible, 1 1/2 degree neg camber, no arm sweep and 1 degree toe out. I'd have to check on spacers on ball studs. Rear was at 2.6 degree toe in set up with 3 out and 4 in on the block inserts to widen the rear slightly. Second shortest camber link length hole. 1mm suspension block spacers all around. Box springs front and rear, 32.5 associated oil, f/r shocks in center holes. 5mm front 5.2mm rear ride height with 2.5mm actual droop. I run a 100 tooth spur and 45 tooth pinion to move the motor more forward on the mount, makes the car more dynamic. The track was Black CRC with medium grip for its kind.
Thanks and congrats....

STLNLST is offline  
Old 12-24-2018, 05:57 AM
  #198  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 38
Default Drop settings

What part of the front arm arm are you supposed to measure from for drop? And I assume 2.5 is no setup blacks under the chassis? I assume the rear arm is measure at the low point below the hub?

Thanks first Yokomo had a TC7.2 before.

Originally Posted by MidwestRacer
I was running an Exotek P-Zero body. I run a Futaba OS Speed T-1 servo, Hobbywing XR10 Pro Stock V4, Trinity motor and Powers 6500HV LGP. Ran the front link as short as possible, 1 1/2 degree neg camber, no arm sweep and 1 degree toe out. I'd have to check on spacers on ball studs. Rear was at 2.6 degree toe in set up with 3 out and 4 in on the block inserts to widen the rear slightly. Second shortest camber link length hole. 1mm suspension block spacers all around. Box springs front and rear, 32.5 associated oil, f/r shocks in center holes. 5mm front 5.2mm rear ride height with 2.5mm actual droop. I run a 100 tooth spur and 45 tooth pinion to move the motor more forward on the mount, makes the car more dynamic. The track was Black CRC with medium grip for its kind.
airsiler3 is offline  
Old 12-24-2018, 12:14 PM
  #199  
Tech Adept
 
MidwestRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 125
Default

Originally Posted by airsiler3
What part of the front arm arm are you supposed to measure from for drop? And I assume 2.5 is no setup blacks under the chassis? I assume the rear arm is measure at the low point below the hub?

Thanks first Yokomo had a TC7.2 before.


I use actual physical droop. Using setup wheels, check ride height of the chassis when resting, then I lift the car one end at a time by the center of the shock tower using a hex driver until right when the setup wheels lose contact with the setup board and slide rideheight gauge under the chassis while lifted to that point. That is how I check actual physical droop. If you have 5mm ride height, and you slide the gauge under car lifted to droop screws, the reading should be 7.5mm. At 8mm on the gauge under the car, the wheels should not touch. I then check that both sides are equal with 10mm droop blocks and gauges without wheels on. Also, after confirming both sides are equal with blocks and gauges, you can check the car springs are square and chassis is not tweaked by the same method. With setup wheel lift the car and pay close attention that they both lift at the same time. If one comes up earlier than the other, the opposite side spring on the other end of the car needs more preload and vise versa.
MidwestRacer is offline  
Old 12-24-2018, 12:57 PM
  #200  
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,486
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by airsiler3
What part of the front arm arm are you supposed to measure from for drop? And I assume 2.5 is no setup blacks under the chassis? I assume the rear arm is measure at the low point below the hub?

Thanks first Yokomo had a TC7.2 before.


I too just recently moved over to the BD9 from the TC7.2 and thanks to my friends at AE, I learned what I feel is the best way to measure droop. Say your car is on 10mm blocks, use calipers and measure to the tops of the axles right against the hex because camber changes this number (there is about 0.1-2mm of difference between what i feel the top of the axle is to what others might feel the top is, i kind of wiggle the caliper to feel the axle grooves equally. When I set it, I lock the caliper at the usual starting 35.5mm front and 34.0mm rear, lower the droop, and then raise it back up until it has the correct feel against the calipers. Some people measure the car completely flat and no blocks, that would be 25.5/24.0. It's much easier to share this setting than pins or plastic heights between cars as well. Everyones wheels are in the same spot. Using this method you can also convert measurements from the pin or arm by measuring out the distance between those and the top of the axle as I've had to do looking at a lot of the japanese setups.

At the moment for medium grip asphalt in mod I like 35.5f and 34.5r. For stock I like 35.7f and 34.7r although my stock car is not quite there yet.
Brian Bosley is offline  
Old 12-24-2018, 02:22 PM
  #201  
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
 
RKeasler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: A step closer to where I need to be a step further from where I was
Posts: 1,186
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Brian Bosley
I too just recently moved over to the BD9 from the TC7.2 and thanks to my friends at AE, I learned what I feel is the best way to measure droop. Say your car is on 10mm blocks, use calipers and measure to the tops of the axles right against the hex because camber changes this number (there is about 0.1-2mm of difference between what i feel the top of the axle is to what others might feel the top is, i kind of wiggle the caliper to feel the axle grooves equally. When I set it, I lock the caliper at the usual starting 35.5mm front and 34.0mm rear, lower the droop, and then raise it back up until it has the correct feel against the calipers. Some people measure the car completely flat and no blocks, that would be 25.5/24.0. It's much easier to share this setting than pins or plastic heights between cars as well. Everyones wheels are in the same spot. Using this method you can also convert measurements from the pin or arm by measuring out the distance between those and the top of the axle as I've had to do looking at a lot of the japanese setups.

At the moment for medium grip asphalt in mod I like 35.5f and 34.5r. For stock I like 35.7f and 34.7r although my stock car is not quite there yet.
can you take a picture of this method, how do these measurements compare to conventional ones?
RKeasler is offline  
Old 12-25-2018, 09:58 PM
  #202  
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,486
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default


Originally Posted by RKeasler
can you take a picture of this method, how do these measurements compare to conventional ones?
i donít have a fine stepped droop guage but 34.0 is about 1.6 measuring to the bottom of the arm mount that hangs down. Itís also roughly 18.6mm to the middle of the pin
Brian Bosley is offline  
Old 12-26-2018, 07:17 PM
  #203  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 284
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default Axon springs

I was on amain and I saw that there are axon springs. There two different kinds. One is label as a HLS spring. And the other is label as a SH and there silver in color. So what's different and what surfaces do they work best for. Thanks for the information.
Kevinkasten is offline  
Old 12-27-2018, 09:23 AM
  #204  
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,486
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Kevinkasten
I was on amain and I saw that there are axon springs. There two different kinds. One is label as a HLS spring. And the other is label as a SH and there silver in color. So what's different and what surfaces do they work best for. Thanks for the information.
The HLS is progressive and the SH is linear. I typically like the feel of progressive only on the front of the car on asphalt. I'm still not exactly sure how they get "2.6" progressive when there is something like "2.45-2.75" progressive. They do initially feel softer though.
Brian Bosley is offline  
Old 12-30-2018, 07:16 PM
  #205  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 9,940
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Nice build so far. Car is a thing of beauty ;-)

LOW ET likes this.
STLNLST is offline  
Old 12-30-2018, 08:08 PM
  #206  
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
 
RKeasler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: A step closer to where I need to be a step further from where I was
Posts: 1,186
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Where'd you get it ?
RKeasler is offline  
Old 12-31-2018, 10:27 AM
  #207  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 9,940
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by RKeasler
Where'd you get it ?
A-main
STLNLST is offline  
Old 12-31-2018, 01:36 PM
  #208  
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
 
RKeasler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: A step closer to where I need to be a step further from where I was
Posts: 1,186
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Aluminum or carbon ?
RKeasler is offline  
Old 12-31-2018, 06:50 PM
  #209  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 9,940
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by RKeasler
Aluminum or carbon ?
carbon. Nice build so far. N
STLNLST is offline  
Old 12-31-2018, 07:30 PM
  #210  
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
 
RKeasler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: A step closer to where I need to be a step further from where I was
Posts: 1,186
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Oh ok that's why no aluminum in stock
RKeasler is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.