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Old 03-19-2006, 01:25 PM   #121
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Originally Posted by Michael Barch
TRI12001 CO27 $31.99

TRI12002 CO27 Pro $35.20

They crossed out the 45 dollar price...
The point is the 45 is considered the retail price, it is not the price they sell it for (called the street price), but retail price is per the ROAR rules.

At the end of the day I hope we can run this motor, I love it, but I do not want to get tossed because of the rules....
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Old 03-19-2006, 01:41 PM   #122
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What are you worried about... it is on the ROAR approved list... thats all you need to know
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Old 03-19-2006, 03:56 PM   #123
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Right, I don't know when, but ROAR already raised the retail price cap not long ago to $45, I believe, so naturally the motor manufacurers raised their retail prices to keep pace(but the price we pay from dealers, online shops & tuners really hasn't changed, so no biggie)....
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Old 03-19-2006, 07:09 PM   #124
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I found it and your right, they did change it Retail price to 46.00... The local track had me worked up, so I figured I would ask here...

Just for the record, if ROAR makes it leagal then it ALSO must fall under rule 8.5.3.2, this is stated under this rule.
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Old 03-19-2006, 10:39 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desolas
SA .. My first outing with it I kept over gearing because it kept coming off the track cool.
Yeah i had my first outing with it on Sunday.... & found that too.

My normal monster gearing (FT TC4) is around 6.4-6.9 & took the advice on a couple of teeth bigger bringing to 6.0-6.2 & it was still coming off cool.

It wasn`t any faster than my monster...but may be i overgeared it..

The track layout changes from meet to meet, alternates between Electric (tight) & Nitro (open) layouts. This week was Nitro (open).

After reading some of your guys gear ratios of 7.0 & up maybe i`m way off the mark...

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Old 03-26-2006, 07:03 PM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricO3
What's a good starting point for rollout for this motor after all your guys' testing? 27.4'ish?
When you give this rollout number, is this based on the calculations in metric or imperial?
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Old 03-26-2006, 07:08 PM   #127
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Metric, best results for me so far (F-Brushes, with Purple/Red Springs) was 27.3mm rollout for a med sized med bite track.
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Old 03-26-2006, 07:24 PM   #128
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Eric thanks for the info....

Good racing on VRC, this is the week we start the Series starts...
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Old 03-26-2006, 07:28 PM   #129
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on a 100x48 track, i run anwhere from a 29.5-31.5, mostly run the 31 range rollout, Reedy 767's and F-Brush's, Purple/Red 160 degrees, what else could be better!
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Old 03-27-2006, 09:07 AM   #130
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Here's an interesting update.

This past weekend I found another great, but wierd looking, brush setup for the co27. I used a 768 (I believe its a 767 compound and it has a slot cut across the face) and purple spring on the pos and an F-brush and red spring on the neg. I ran it all day with one full pack in practice, all 3 qualifiers and the main. The motor definitely got stronger with each run and the comm looks the cleanest I've ever seen at the end of 5 runs. No comm cuts/sticks were necessary. Just a good motor spray cleaning and lube, while keeping the springs/brushes seated and unmoved. The best rollout was 30.0mm on our medium grip carpet track with tight 180d corners AND several semi-long straights.
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Old 03-27-2006, 09:42 AM   #131
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Do any of you temp your motor after running it? and if so do you go by the temp inside the can, through one of the vent holes, or by the outside temp of the can?

Because I'm running about 145 degrees outside the can, but about 195-200 inside. I don't smell cooked motor at the end, and the tag is still white, but 200 degrees inside scared me a bit!
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Old 03-27-2006, 10:11 AM   #132
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I take my temp reading from the outside of the can, it is about 135 to 145 depending on the outside temp. Also a general rule of thumb, is if you can hold your finger on the can after the race, for more then 3 seconds, the temp is good. In the case with the CO27 motor, I can hold my figure on the can and not remove it... the Fast guys at the track always refer to the temp on my motor as "WOW, it did not break a sweat."

I will tell you, the CO27 has a sweet spot for gearing, and with 64 pitch, is about 3 teeth + or -, and until you hit this spot, you will not think it is good motor, but when you hit it, you will love it.
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Old 03-27-2006, 10:44 AM   #133
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that whole finger hold for 3 seconds is relative, based on how high of a pain tolerance you have. Or it could be that your pain receptors are on vactaion.

I can hold it for however long I want, but it isn't comfotable!

I know I started the day off and my fastest lap time was 13.7, I geared up 1 toothand the next race was 13.4, and for the main, I geared up one more and turned a 13.2

I finished 3rd in the A main, but I noticed I need to turn atleast a 13.0 to be at the top. Going from my previous experience 1 more should get me there. But It's already at the temperature that I'm not sure I want to push it any more.

Our next club race is Wednesday Night. I think I'll cut the comm, and replace the brushes and springs, but leave it geared the same and try that. If it temps out ok, and lap times are up, I'll leave it, but if it temps out ok, and lap times are the same, I'll pop it up one more tooth.

I'm on the edge of finding that sweet spot, but not quite!
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Old 03-27-2006, 10:56 AM   #134
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I ran the CO27 yesterday on my BMI2 with a fdr of 6.37 and the motor came off the track cold! The motor was fast! I have another one that I reworked and I can run around a 5.6 fdr with no problem at all and is just as fast as my 19t
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Old 03-27-2006, 03:33 PM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
and is just as fast as my 19t
I think you should invest in a new 19 turn any good 19 turn (geared right) is faster than a stocker
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