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Old 03-16-2006, 10:50 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrrus
hey I was just curious. last season I had a great times with a Orion Core. How would one gear a co27 compare to this motor.

right now I'm gearing this little monster at 57mm tires. 120 spur and 29 pinon on a mi2-bmi. i was thinking on going smaller to a 116 or 118 spur and maybe up to a 30 pinion.

What do you guy's think about going that route.

I'm racing on the rug for the first time(touring that is). i might have to try this motor in my crc 3.2.
It depends a bit on how your Co27 is setup, but in general, I'd say gearing it like a Core is close enough for a starting point. The Co27's powerband in general is VERY similar to that, the Peak Hellfire & Reedy MVP, but the Co27 does it without sacrificing efficiency, & they do it while running cool too, so they don't fade at the end of a run(in other words, they actually do what Trinity claimed they would). I'd go ahead & start similar to what you've been using, & adjust from there( again be mindful of what springs & brushes it's using, they will affect the powerband, from what I've seen, mine looked almost EXACTLY like an MVP with a purple/red spring & 767 combo, but it picked up considerably more rpm & lost a bit of torque when I rebuilt it & switched to F-Brushes, but overall power remained the same, just had to adjust my gearing to compensate)....
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Old 03-16-2006, 11:12 PM   #92
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okay, I will try a set of fbrush. tomorrow. in quilifing. and will also try a 118 spur. but It also depends what the new track will look like. I will also try to align the hood also. (i do have the tool. haven't used it yet don't ask why) I might try red and red. or maybe red+and green-. what do you think? I was also thinking on picking up a set of 767 with the cavities or am i just wasting mymoney?
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Old 03-16-2006, 11:21 PM   #93
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Hi Andy...........I'll be going brushless on this weekend, no messing with comm,springs or brushes
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Old 03-17-2006, 03:05 AM   #94
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I`ll be giving mine a run for the first time this weekend..

Should be interesting...i`ve only tested it up & down the driveway & it feels very punchy.

Another club member will be using one for the first time this weekend too, both got the Pro`s, he`s running a Pro 4 & i`m running a FTTC4.

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Old 03-17-2006, 04:42 AM   #95
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Can you give then the gearing you used on the FTTC4 ?

Thanks.
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Old 03-17-2006, 05:32 AM   #96
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actually no one can really give you an accurate gearing. Most of us dont run at your track, know how long the str8 away is, or know how big ya tires are... Ya best bet is find the fast guy at ya track ask what motor he's running and gear accordingly.......
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Old 03-17-2006, 07:50 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrrus
okay, I will try a set of fbrush. tomorrow. in quilifing. and will also try a 118 spur. but It also depends what the new track will look like. I will also try to align the hood also. (i do have the tool. haven't used it yet don't ask why) I might try red and red. or maybe red+and green-. what do you think? I was also thinking on picking up a set of 767 with the cavities or am i just wasting mymoney?
cyrrus,

I played a little more recently with differing brush combinations on both a CE and Fantom dyno and here were the best two setups I found for the co27:

For high torque on tight tracks: F-brushes, drilled face, shaved trailing edges (+) purple spring (-) purple spring, bent just a tad softer

For high rpm on open tracks: XXX brushes, drilled hole (+) purple spring (-) red spring

Both setups gave similar overall power, but the difference in rpm and torque were pretty clear.
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Old 03-17-2006, 11:58 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALBERTO
actually no one can really give you an accurate gearing. Most of us dont run at your track, know how long the str8 away is, or know how big ya tires are... Ya best bet is find the fast guy at ya track ask what motor he's running and gear accordingly.......
ok, sounds fair, but it is always good to have a starting point if you are clueless.
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Old 03-17-2006, 12:36 PM   #99
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hey team gp thanks for the info. I will try the small track set up.
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Old 03-17-2006, 12:41 PM   #100
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After a bit of help from EAmotorsports
me & another pal over here in the uk have got our`s flying

the said track is indoor rubber on carpet every thursday night
roar 9.1,9.2
monster 8.6.8.8
co27 7.65 this is on my evo 4 sorex 28r 64 pitch gear`s

this works out 4 teeth more on pinion then i would on monster
i did go down to 7.4 it was real fast but got a bit hot

on thursday i was flashing for FTD & setting fastest laps during 3rd qualiy
till the dreaded `sshakess` came into play

but this motor is resembling very much like the p2k2 of old so gearing is going to be crucial for this baby to go
luckly we have been using the monster for so long we have a starting point on what ever track we are on
not been outside yet
but on a faster more open track a guy with a roar was in front couldn`t catch him (indoors again)

paul had red/red F-line`s
i had red/red then moved up to red/purple F-lines

how good enogh driver.setup merchant am i (you may ask) ??

good enough to know what is horse & what isn`t
i haven`t just come down the thames on biscuit

not much cogging effect either compared to the roar/monster

better motor ??? no not really just another weapon in your armoury me thinks

having a co27t & roar is like having
a C219t & atlas 19t but in 27t , both are very good motors ,if the revvy isn`t working on the day chuck the torquey one in with 4 extra teeth on pinion & away you go
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Old 03-17-2006, 12:53 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR JOLLY
...better motor ???...
Although this is with only two motors and very little track time, I've noticed two advantages. First, they tend to run more efficient/cooler and will maintain more punch in the last half of a run. And second, you get p2k2 torque that carries on up through the rpm's (second half of straights and on-power large sweepers) like no other motor.
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Old 03-17-2006, 12:56 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamgp
cyrrus,

I played a little more recently with differing brush combinations on both a CE and Fantom dyno and here were the best two setups I found for the co27:

For high torque on tight tracks: F-brushes, drilled face, shaved trailing edges (+) purple spring (-) purple spring, bent just a tad softer

For high rpm on open tracks: XXX brushes, drilled hole (+) purple spring (-) red spring

Both setups gave similar overall power, but the difference in rpm and torque were pretty clear.
Just so that i'm clear, you saying that by bending the spring inward i would imagine, gives higher torque for smaller tighter tracks? And bending them out (tighter) gives higher rpm??? Is that how this works? How are you bending the springs might i ask just incase i have it backwards.
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Old 03-17-2006, 01:19 PM   #103
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i have 2 co`s
now other pally has one

had 3 meeting with my one`s played alot

1 of these co`s came of ebay ,so i done what i knew best .
never had a issue with the roar`s or monster`s . i used roars indoors on carpet/rubber`s never over heated

but i think this co will have a small gearing window like the roar has
but it`s got a nice blue can to go with my preeeety blue evo 4

i only need a couple of meets to find if it works or not
And what i found is every thing works it`s just applying it at the right track & right gearing
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Old 03-17-2006, 01:51 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IslandBwoy
Just so that i'm clear, you saying that by bending the spring inward i would imagine, gives higher torque for smaller tighter tracks? And bending them out (tighter) gives higher rpm??? Is that how this works? How are you bending the springs might i ask just incase i have it backwards.
Not necessarily. These spring tension combo's just happened to be the best ones for the two different brushes being used with each unique motor. You have to keep in mind that two different armatures of the same exact model may require much different brush/spring combo's.

However, the common thought is that the tighter the spring tension, the more torque you'll have and vice versa.

Also note that the XXX brush setups negative spring is red. This would actually have less tension than the F brush setups negative purple spring, even it it were bent inward slightly for "softer" tension.
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Old 03-17-2006, 03:59 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR JOLLY
i have 2 co`s
now other pally has one

had 3 meeting with my one`s played alot

1 of these co`s came of ebay ,so i done what i knew best .
never had a issue with the roar`s or monster`s . i used roars indoors on carpet/rubber`s never over heated

but i think this co will have a small gearing window like the roar has
but it`s got a nice blue can to go with my preeeety blue evo 4

i only need a couple of meets to find if it works or not
And what i found is every thing works it`s just applying it at the right track & right gearing
Actually no, it's more the opposite with the new motor, because of the MUCH more broad torque curve(& the big advantage in torque overall), the Co27 is MOCH more tolerant of how you gear it. By & large, the less torque you have available to you, the MORE vital it is to gear it perfectly, while with torquier motors, it gets a lot easier, because if you go over a bit, the motor can still pull it. You overgear a ROAR stock though, & it's toast. So this should also be a great beginner's motor, as well as good for us cagey old farts(but I will not claim it makes more power than the others, because it doesn't, it just arrives at its power differently, & does so with GREAT efficiency).....
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