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Old 02-24-2006, 09:42 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kartermdb
i agree with EA, fantom numbers are useless, no real dyno is an accelerometer, it needs a true load on it to give you real numbers, i have not tried one of these motors, i think ill just stick with my trusty old monsters, tuned by Team Pink
Actually, EA didn't say the Fantom numbers are useless. He said the numbers at the bottom of the screen are. EA points out the WHERE to look on the Fantom Dyno. You have to use the Time Base output of the Dyno. Which you can view on the graph, but in more detail on the 10th of a second intervals.

The TurboDYNO is great, a load certainly helps for certain aspects. The TurboDYNO does not show both sides of the curve so both Dyno's are an asset.

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Old 02-24-2006, 10:00 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
Actually, EA didn't say the Fantom numbers are useless. He said the numbers at the bottom of the screen are. EA points out the WHERE to look on the Fantom Dyno. You have to use the Time Base output of the Dyno. Which you can view on the graph, but in more detail on the 10th of a second intervals.

The TurboDYNO is great, a load certainly helps for certain aspects. The TurboDYNO does not show both sides of the curve so both Dyno's are an asset.

Jeff
using a fantom dyno just to get peak numbers that you'd pring on labels is a waste and folly both.

the folly has been pointed out....the peak, label type, numbers arent worth much. high power motors run poorly and torque doesnt tell you enuf.

the waste is that the graphs are the whole POINT of having a computer controlled dyno, esp one that measures acceleration.

the best way to use the fantom is to start with a motor that you know. something that you run all the time and know it well. dyno it and save the file. then dyno another motor and compare the graphs to each other. by doing this its easy to spot that some motors need way more or less gearing based on their torque (and hence power) curves. then run the new motor, try some different gearings.
repeat with other motors until you learn how to interpret curve variations and gear accordignly, as well as realize when one curve just isnt as good as another

as has been stated, used properly the fantom is a great tool, used improperly it will ruin you
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Old 02-24-2006, 10:03 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floodo1
using a fantom dyno just to get peak numbers that you'd pring on labels is a waste and folly both.

the folly has been pointed out....the peak, label type, numbers arent worth much. high power motors run poorly and torque doesnt tell you enuf.

the waste is that the graphs are the whole POINT of having a computer controlled dyno, esp one that measures acceleration.

the best way to use the fantom is to start with a motor that you know. something that you run all the time and know it well. dyno it and save the file. then dyno another motor and compare the graphs to each other. by doing this its easy to spot that some motors need way more or less gearing based on their torque (and hence power) curves. then run the new motor, try some different gearings.
repeat with other motors until you learn how to interpret curve variations and gear accordignly, as well as realize when one curve just isnt as good as another

as has been stated, used properly the fantom is a great tool, used improperly it will ruin you
Ok, I think we are on the same page. Exactly, the Fantom Dyno shows a lot if you are looking at the correct aspects.

Jeff
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Old 02-25-2006, 12:24 AM   #79
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Originally Posted by Shodin
Grizz: There was no motor in it before. This is a brand new car.

Froboy: Take Off CS-22's. The track is high-grip.
In that case, then there's really no way we can suggest a gear ratio for you, assuming you're running at a race track, without knowing anything about it, the best people who can advise on gearing there are the local racers. Every track is different in what kind of gearing is best suited & sometimes what motor is ideal for it(big, flowing tracks need lots of top end speed, & motors that make good torque at high rpm, while short, technical tracks need motors with a lot of raw power & the most torque at low rpm, so they can punch out of corners well). You really should ask some local racers to get an idea of what pinions to get for it, since we really can't know what demands will be placed on your car.....
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Old 02-25-2006, 11:10 AM   #80
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Since you're in the Sand Springs area, you might have been (or still go) to the track out in Broken Arrow. It's the Adam's Creek one. It's a relatively short track and they usually put quite a few turns in it for the stock touring class. I'm guessing by what you said that I should just start with the 28 and play with it from there. Thanks again.
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Old 02-25-2006, 07:16 PM   #81
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Hey,

Anyone hear of running a softer spring on postive than negative as a way to get these motors to run decently? I just got my "blueprinted" CO27 from Brahma and it came with a Green spring on positive and a Red spring on negative. Did they goof up my motor or are they on to something?
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Old 02-25-2006, 08:21 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackKat
Hey,

Anyone hear of running a softer spring on postive than negative as a way to get these motors to run decently? I just got my "blueprinted" CO27 from Brahma and it came with a Green spring on positive and a Red spring on negative. Did they goof up my motor or are they on to something?
here is the best that I got out mine with 767's with red+ & red-
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Old 02-25-2006, 09:16 PM   #83
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I went ahead and put a Purple spring on positive after reading a bunch of posts. My RPM on the dyno sticker was a little low but the wattage was nice I'm sure they just made an honest mistake at Brahma. The motors we ordered came packaged real well.
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Old 02-25-2006, 10:52 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackKat
Hey,

Anyone hear of running a softer spring on postive than negative as a way to get these motors to run decently? I just got my "blueprinted" CO27 from Brahma and it came with a Green spring on positive and a Red spring on negative. Did they goof up my motor or are they on to something?
From what I understand the oval guys run this sort of setup (correct me if I am wrong ...please) I too have had motors come with this set up (Surge) and have found only one of the 3 with this config worked. The other 2 were put back to the std configs I run and the motors came alive
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Old 02-25-2006, 11:41 PM   #85
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it is an Oval thing..
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Old 02-27-2006, 08:09 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackKat
Hey,

Anyone hear of running a softer spring on postive than negative as a way to get these motors to run decently? I just got my "blueprinted" CO27 from Brahma and it came with a Green spring on positive and a Red spring on negative. Did they goof up my motor or are they on to something?
It would make sense to use a softer + spring for oval, since they don't have the motors drop in rpm for tighter corners. However, with almost any touring track layout the motors will need to use more torque and amp draw at lower rpm's. With a soft + spring (or even - spring), this usually will cause the brush(es) to bounce on the comm, arc, and the motors power will probably go flat anywhere from 1 to 3 minutes into the run. The comm should have visible black streaks on it afterwards. Usually, the tighter the corners in the track the more spring tension you'll need. However, if the track is tight and does not have any long straights requiring taller gearing, then you could gear the motor down some (smaller pinions) and possibly run a softer spring combo.
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Old 02-27-2006, 08:41 AM   #87
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LOL i got a co27 from my sponsor yesterday, then i wona a CO27 Pro in a drawing at our track, tight $hit!

There is that yellow label on the side of the motor, does anyone know what volts them are done at? Or what amps?
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Old 02-27-2006, 08:43 AM   #88
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Originally Posted by BSchorr
LOL i got a co27 from my sponsor yesterday, then i wona a CO27 Pro in a drawing at our track, tight $hit!

There is that yellow label on the side of the motor, does anyone know what volts them are done at? Or what amps?
Should say on the sticker. I think it is 5v.
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Old 03-16-2006, 08:20 PM   #89
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So what should my FDR be for a SoCal. Small and tight.
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Old 03-16-2006, 10:42 PM   #90
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hey I was just curious. last season I had a great times with a Orion Core. How would one gear a co27 compare to this motor.

right now I'm gearing this little monster at 57mm tires. 120 spur and 29 pinon on a mi2-bmi. i was thinking on going smaller to a 116 or 118 spur and maybe up to a 30 pinion.

What do you guy's think about going that route.

I'm racing on the rug for the first time(touring that is). i might have to try this motor in my crc 3.2.
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