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Old 04-10-2006, 03:31 PM   #181
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Originally Posted by Ike
Just have to go by feel, you should be able to tell if the car is topping out or still accelerating at the end of the straight.
It can also depend on the car(in my case, a FT TC4, I can hear it top out on the straight, it's not loud, but its sound is audible & distinctive, makes it easy to tell for me), even belt-driven cars make some sound, you just have to learn what to listen for....
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Old 04-21-2006, 02:23 AM   #182
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What peak numbers are you guys getting for this motor on the Robi Dyno? Just want to know if im hitting the ballpark or if im doing something wrong and need to keep trying.

Also give us your first and third run numbers, I have found the first run to be unusualy high on the Wats side (On one motor I got 135w) but they usualy level out at 125wats and 31500 RPM, I can get the RPM's up but then I lose power.

Thanks
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Old 04-21-2006, 08:23 AM   #183
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Default Co27

I have dyno'd 3 different Co27's on my Robi, all with similar results, I will attempt to post the 3 different screenshots when I can. I dont remember the numbers by heart. but I got some properly tuned P2K2's that follow the lines pretty closely.

I have a big race this weekend and hopping to Dyno a whole bunch of motors and save the results in archive so I can compare them/post them.

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Old 04-21-2006, 10:41 AM   #184
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Hey all,

I just read the entire thread and now i am more confused then ever, so i have a few questions that i hope someone can help clear up. First of all we run on a large track, carpet, rubber tire, but it has a tight infield, really hard to find a good gear ratio.

I have been running my c027 and am having trouble with the gearing i am using compared to what i read out here.

As of right now the best ratio i have found is ~ 7.0, now i read that some guys are finding that 6.0-6.5 works better on a large track, but when i pull my car off the track my motor is pretty much just before the max temp i would like.

my question is that if i drop my ratio closer to a 6.0-6.5 is there a chance my motor might cool down? Cause it seems some people C027 are running best when they come off cool.

Needless to say i am very confused so if someone could try and some up what they find is the best starting ratios based on track size and type it might help out a few of us newbs.

Thanks
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Old 04-21-2006, 10:47 AM   #185
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Also i am running gp3300 and really haven't noticed the car falling off at the end, it seems like i am getting good runtime. most of my packs take 3800mah and above, my race packs all take over 4000. I use a MM ctx charger (CTX 7A-2600, 0.2A-3630, 5A-4200)

Do you think i would be better off getting newer cells, most people say until i get better at driving i am really not going to notice much of a diff.
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Old 04-21-2006, 03:50 PM   #186
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6g72tt -- I haven't run the Co27 OnRoad yet, so I can't help you from personal experience, but... Any motor has a gearing range where it is "happy", and if you Under OR Over gear it, either one can make it hot and hot motors are very UNhappy..!

If you know a gearing/rollout that is working for other local racers on you track, I would highly recommend you start there, then try one tooth up and then one tooth down from that and look at your lap times. The track is the ultimate dyno, and I'm amazed at how many racers ignore their lap times. Don't look at your total run laps/time, as that is influenced by wrecks, etc. -- look at your fastest lap. Assuming you get in a few clean laps each run, your fastest lap will tell you what the car/motor/gearing were capable of (overall lap/time totals tell you what you driving is capable of)...

As far as batteries, check out your early race laps, then your late race laps -- if the clean laps are not showing large "fall off", then your batteries are fine. Here again, the track is the ultimate "battery tester" too...
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Old 04-21-2006, 04:06 PM   #187
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You know i have been racing for only 3 months, but have talked to many many fellow racers, i have to say that is some of the easiest to understand, simple, straightforward help i have ever seen or gotten. thanks very much, now i am really looking forward to my next day at the track. Cause when I am driving i find it hard to see if i am actually going that much faster or not.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tfrahm
6g72tt -- I haven't run the Co27 OnRoad yet, so I can't help you from personal experience, but... Any motor has a gearing range where it is "happy", and if you Under OR Over gear it, either one can make it hot and hot motors are very UNhappy..!

If you know a gearing/rollout that is working for other local racers on you track, I would highly recommend you start there, then try one tooth up and then one tooth down from that and look at your lap times. The track is the ultimate dyno, and I'm amazed at how many racers ignore their lap times. Don't look at your total run laps/time, as that is influenced by wrecks, etc. -- look at your fastest lap. Assuming you get in a few clean laps each run, your fastest lap will tell you what the car/motor/gearing were capable of (overall lap/time totals tell you what you driving is capable of)...

As far as batteries, check out your early race laps, then your late race laps -- if the clean laps are not showing large "fall off", then your batteries are fine. Here again, the track is the ultimate "battery tester" too...
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Old 04-21-2006, 08:16 PM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6g72tt
You know i have been racing for only 3 months, but have talked to many many fellow racers, i have to say that is some of the easiest to understand, simple, straightforward help i have ever seen or gotten. thanks very much, now i am really looking forward to my next day at the track. Cause when I am driving i find it hard to see if i am actually going that much faster or not.
It's cool, that's what us old fogies are here for. And to add a bit to the gearing discussion, the guys are right that EVERY motor has a sweet spot, be it a stock, 19 turn or serious mod. As an example, I had early temp. problems with my Reedy Quad Mag 19T, when I was gearing it the same way I'd do a Chameleon 2(in other words, using my dyno's gearing calculator to figure out the best way, since the Reedy's powerband was SO different from the C2's), but it was still getting hot. But after conferring with some guys who've used that motor longer, I found that they were all gearing noticably taller(numerically lower ratio) than I was, so by their suggestion I tried it & suddenly it started running CONSIDERABLY cooler, not to mention being quite fast(didn't hurt my lap times one bit). Turned out that motor is VERy picky about how it's geared in order to run cool, but once it's there, it runs just fine. And stock motors run much the same, in that you have to hit the gearing just right to get it to run perfectly & stay cool, & when a new motor enters the fray, sometimes you just have to experiment a bit(even if it seems to go against common wisdom to try something) to find out what it likes....
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Old 04-21-2006, 09:09 PM   #189
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Default Best for us

My son races stock at our local track ,which is the size of 2basket ball courts it has the best of both worlds a tight infield and three good length straights .Running a new MI2 EC we have found that 5.93 gear ratio works best for us the motor comes of at a very nice temp and he has bettered his best lap times by .8 secs. and by 9seconds in 6 min race times .We used to run 6.8-6.5 with the Roar stock and Monsters .We have also tried gear the CO27 at around 6.2 to start with and lap times were slower One other thing the CO27 is a pro tuned motor .Hope this helps Cheers Mark
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Old 04-22-2006, 12:00 AM   #190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MATTS
I have dyno'd 3 different Co27's on my Robi, all with similar results, I will attempt to post the 3 different screenshots when I can. I dont remember the numbers by heart. but I got some properly tuned P2K2's that follow the lines pretty closely.

I have a big race this weekend and hopping to Dyno a whole bunch of motors and save the results in archive so I can compare them/post them.

Matts.
Thanks Matt, it would realy be good for me to be able to compare some results, ill also get some numbers and post them here.
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Old 04-22-2006, 12:55 AM   #191
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got no probs with me co27
i run 4-5 teeth more on pinion then a monster/roar
IE , maritime indoor tight carpet/rubbers Vtech 24r or sorex 28r
monster red/red springs,F-lines- 8.5 ,Co27t F-lines red/purple springs 7.35 this is a SD
2 meetings on the trot thurs & friday night 8 races + 6-7 minutes pratice no rebuilds , just fine & dandy

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new team for us oldies
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Old 04-22-2006, 08:51 AM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR JOLLY
grizzbob
new team for us oldies
I'm not grizzbob, but as an oldie, I like your 'Team Grumpy' in your signature... Trust me -- I have the bald spot, the gray hair, and the grandkids to qualify...
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Old 04-23-2006, 03:29 AM   #193
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i`ne got so much grey i feel like a silver back gorrilla
might try some Grecian 2000 (maybe not)
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Old 05-03-2006, 05:55 AM   #194
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Could anyone give an indication of what numbers an above average CO27 would give? Would like to know if my motors are delivering what they should.

Thanks
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Old 05-03-2006, 07:40 AM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psychosilence
Could anyone give an indication of what numbers an above average CO27 would give? Would like to know if my motors are delivering what they should.

Thanks
Do you mean on an dyno or motor checker?
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