22LikesBattery C rating for 1/10 and 1/12 mod racing
08-24-2018, 11:36 AM
#1
Battery C rating for 1/10 and 1/12 mod racing
Im recently back in racing and I still have my Gens Ace battery 65c, 120c burst rating (about 2 years old) they are working great for stock racing right now (USGT, 17.5).
My question is, will these batteries be okay for mod racing with a 3.5 turn brushless motor? I also have some 60c rated 1s batteries for my 1/12 pan car. I plan to run mod in that class as well with a similar turn motor. I run on an asphault outdoor track, lots of turns, with about a 120’ straight away.
My question is, will these batteries be okay for mod racing with a 3.5 turn brushless motor? I also have some 60c rated 1s batteries for my 1/12 pan car. I plan to run mod in that class as well with a similar turn motor. I run on an asphault outdoor track, lots of turns, with about a 120’ straight away.
08-24-2018, 11:42 AM
#2
The cells should be fine. Technically, the rating of most modern cells is greater than the solder tabs on the cells could actually cope with (there is so much "marketing" driving the ratings that I wouldn't read much into them).
If you had a really old pack rated at 20c it might be a concern.
One other thing to watch for is that the cells might have deteriorated after 2 years use, so if they feel soft on the track or lack capacity you might want to budget for a replacement.
If you had a really old pack rated at 20c it might be a concern.
One other thing to watch for is that the cells might have deteriorated after 2 years use, so if they feel soft on the track or lack capacity you might want to budget for a replacement.
08-24-2018, 03:07 PM
#3
Originally Posted by sosidge
The cells should be fine. Technically, the rating of most modern cells is greater than the solder tabs on the cells could actually cope with (there is so much "marketing" driving the ratings that I wouldn't read much into them).
If you had a really old pack rated at 20c it might be a concern.
One other thing to watch for is that the cells might have deteriorated after 2 years use, so if they feel soft on the track or lack capacity you might want to budget for a replacement.
If you had a really old pack rated at 20c it might be a concern.
One other thing to watch for is that the cells might have deteriorated after 2 years use, so if they feel soft on the track or lack capacity you might want to budget for a replacement.
08-24-2018, 07:36 PM
#4
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (32)
i have the gens ace 5000mah 50c batteries as well as smc 7400 mah and 5400mah 90c batteries. With my hobby wing 3.5 turn in my associated tc4 the gens ace batter does not work. everytime i go full throttle the car will glitch like crazy and i will have to abort the run. This does not happen to my smc batteries on the 3.5 turn and this also does not happen to the gens ace battery as long as i use a 4.5 turn or slower motor. This leads me to believe that c ratings do matter and do mean something.
08-24-2018, 07:44 PM
#5
Originally Posted by riceball777
i have the gens ace 5000mah 50c batteries as well as smc 7400 mah and 5400mah 90c batteries. With my hobby wing 3.5 turn in my associated tc4 the gens ace batter does not work. everytime i go full throttle the car will glitch like crazy and i will have to abort the run. This does not happen to my smc batteries on the 3.5 turn and this also does not happen to the gens ace battery as long as i use a 4.5 turn or slower motor. This leads me to believe that c ratings do matter and do mean something.
08-24-2018, 08:36 PM
#6
Originally Posted by riceball777
i have the gens ace 5000mah 50c batteries as well as smc 7400 mah and 5400mah 90c batteries. With my hobby wing 3.5 turn in my associated tc4 the gens ace batter does not work. everytime i go full throttle the car will glitch like crazy and i will have to abort the run. This does not happen to my smc batteries on the 3.5 turn and this also does not happen to the gens ace battery as long as i use a 4.5 turn or slower motor. This leads me to believe that c ratings do matter and do mean something.
08-24-2018, 09:27 PM
#7
I think Mah is more important with modern batteries. For 12th, anyhow, we run 8000s...flatter discharge curve equals more power through race. I typically only burn 3500 in an 8min race...but that flat line keeps it consistent. C rating seems to be more important in stock and spec classes from what I see. You’ll have plenty of punch in mod...at least if you are beginning in the classes.
Never had had any trouble with the hobbyking nanotechnology ultimates...great batteries at great price. Now I’m on to EAM, an older LRP, and even a Lectron (in F1).
Never had had any trouble with the hobbyking nanotechnology ultimates...great batteries at great price. Now I’m on to EAM, an older LRP, and even a Lectron (in F1).
08-25-2018, 02:55 AM
#8
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
In most mod 2.5t- 3.5t setups you'll need to turn off your esc's lipo voltage cutoff to stop that crazy glitching caused by the big voltage drop of most lipo packs. It will not hurt your gens ace lipos, but you will need to time your runs to six minutes or less in order not to overdischarge the pack...Personally, I've always turned all my LVC's off, no matter what turn motor I am using. Those glitches can cause a huge accident that will cost you more than a $50 lipo pack...
08-25-2018, 03:34 PM
#9
Originally Posted by gigaplex
LVC doesn't cause glitching. If it's triggered, it just reduces power output to the motor. In fact, that'll reduce glitching since it prioritises voltage for the radio vs the motor.
King BERT equals 2.5t/3.5t expert !!!
Last edited by bertrandsv87; 08-25-2018 at 03:47 PM.
08-25-2018, 04:12 PM
#10
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
You've admitted not ever running 2.5t/3.5t motors in your cars, so how would you know about the issue ??? Reducing motor output power or any other unwanted issues equals GLITCHING.... I also always plug a glitch buster capacitor to all my receivers, so my glitching had nothing to do with radio power loss. I was also using an external LVC cutoff with my original gtb 3.5t combo when the problems started: after disconnecting the external Lvc, everything went back to normal, and I won third place at the FBF mod race, when others DNF with their Lvc's on...My 3.5t only burned 2700mah from my 4200mah TP(40C) lipo battery. Come on, why even answer when you don't run these low turn motors???
King BERT equals 2.5t/3.5t expert !!!
King BERT equals 2.5t/3.5t expert !!!
08-25-2018, 08:01 PM
#11
I stopped using all lvc's(in&out), and never experienced this problem again at full throttle. At part throttle, there was no problem at all with the Lvc on... I guess the high current draw caused an issue somewhere for my rather weak 40C battery....
08-25-2018, 09:44 PM
#12
You basically have to turn off lvc for mod 12th...learned this the hard way...thought my batt was dumping esrly...and that’s even with. 6.5t.
08-26-2018, 01:00 AM
#13
Originally Posted by Cichlid RC
Cool, thanks for the response. Cells are holding up fine so far, surprisingly!
08-27-2018, 09:06 AM
#14
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
You've admitted not ever running 2.5t/3.5t motors in your cars, so how would you know about the issue ??? Reducing motor output power or any other unwanted issues equals GLITCHING.... I also always plug a glitch buster capacitor to all my receivers, so my glitching had nothing to do with radio power loss. I was also using an external LVC cutoff with my original gtb 3.5t combo when the problems started: after disconnecting the external Lvc, everything went back to normal, and I won third place at the FBF mod race, when others DNF with their Lvc's on...My 3.5t only burned 2700mah from my 4200mah TP(40C) lipo battery. Come on, why even answer when you don't run these low turn motors???
King BERT equals 2.5t/3.5t expert !!!
King BERT equals 2.5t/3.5t expert !!!
08-27-2018, 04:11 PM
#15
Just the fact that I mastered the 2.5t/3.5t motors ten years ago with not so good batteries says alot !!! Imagine what I will be able to do on my Rc racing return in mid October at 360v2 !!! Wow.....Be there !!!
