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Serpent F110 SF4

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Old 05-09-2019, 08:33 AM
  #196  
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Default SF4 Build tips

So I've read through the entire thread and it seems there are a number of must haves when building the kit. I will be running on Black Carpet and am looking for advice on manufacturer selections so I figured it would be easier to consolidate the learnings thus far...please chime in.

Tires
New front nose wing
Parts Fitting - done as needed.
Motor fans.
Diff/Gear/Spool options
Weight placement/battery tray
Body choice
Spring options

What I've not seen is electronics choices....XR10 seems to be common, but any really small ESC should work fine, what about Servo, and Battery considerations (shorty, shortly/low profile...MAH vs weight? Motor of course and roll-out you are using with the approx length of the straight would help for a baseline.

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Old 05-09-2019, 09:03 AM
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Tires - CRC/Pit/TCS tires all work good. I've had some good luck with the Sweeps V4 (version 2) black carpet tires but they are a little less consistent than pits.
New front nose wing - Montech 2017 front wing or Protoform V2 front wing is good
Parts fitting - Uhh yeah....bad quality...not sure if resolved on later kits.
Motor fans - If mounting inbetween battery and motor, the Hot Racing MH3030F fan will fit. I have two of them spliced together and operate on 8.4V. Keeps motor temp in check but the best cooling method is a better fan mounted on top of the motor.
Diff/Gear/Spool - Xray gear diff can work if you grind the brace on the diff side and reinforce it at the same time. I'm using a High Velocity RC spool on mines. Other option is to use pegs in the ball diff to lock it to a spool.
Weight placement/battery tray - Have not tried transverse in this car. Inline is working well for me. The advantage of inline is you can buy the optional brass battery holder. Stock holder is 24g, the brass holder is 60g, and all of that weight is down low as possible. My Serpent traction rolls a lot less than my Xray.
Body choice - PF F26, stock Xray X1 body, Mon-tech....all fine choices
Spring options - I've switched over to Ride springs on the front (longer than stock). Tamiya springs will work too (about same height as stock spring). Side springs, I switched to AE 12R5 springs. More readily available, more ranges, and cheaper. Direct fit. Tamiya F104v2 side springs work too.

Might try shorty/low profile battery in future with a shorty tungsten plate to make up weight. Worried about voltage drop/IR but will see. Servo, you must use a low profile servo.
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Old 05-10-2019, 06:52 AM
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Dan is pretty much spot on with his summary except I never had any issues with the build quality on my SF4 but it was bought only as few months back. As for tires, I personally like the CRC on black carpet. I find them more consistent than any other tire that I have tried. You just need to figure out your saucing program for the track environment. I normally glue the front tires at the lip where the sidewall meets the contact patch. I also tend to glue a bit of the sidewall to help from the tire rolling under hard cornering. I find that this helps with traction rolls. Also, I sauce full front and rear for 10 minutes at the beginning of the day when the traction is not so high. By the end of the day, I am saucing about half the front tires for about 5 minutes. Still doing full sauce, 10 minutes on the rear tires.

Regarding batteries, I am looking to use the Orca 4300MAH shorty low profile. We run 21.5 F1 at our club and this should be sufficient for our track size. With 25.5 you can probably get away with it no problem. I personally like to get closer to a 5000MAH battery and above but I can't seem to find a low pro shorty battery that comes close. Orca has a 5400 but that's not a low profile one and I find this too heavy for my car. Currently waiting until next season to buy a new battery. Perhaps then they will come out with something that fits my specs.
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Old 05-10-2019, 12:24 PM
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Dan and Eevul, AWESOME feedback, exactly what myself and prolly many others were looking for.

How light is the car with electronics in general, or how much weight did you need to add? Would you elect to offset the weight with a higher MAH battery or weight placement lower at the chassis level? If the latter, were are the best spots to put it?
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Old 05-10-2019, 07:51 PM
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me with
2x 30x30x7mm fan
orca 5400 gen4 lipo
maclan pico esc
Xpert 3402 servo
sanwa rx 481 receiver
x-factor 25.5 motor
custom xray x10 center shock
roche spool
gravity tire
protoform v2 front wing
3racing rear wing
montec 2017 body

car weight 1018g

I add 5x 7g on the chassi to reach 1053g
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Old 05-11-2019, 08:11 PM
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The car is relatively light, but not overly so. My car isn't the best example since it has a spool on it (lighter than the stock diff setup) and a 60g brass battery holder. I still had to add another 25g (opposite of ESC) even with the brass holder. This is with a 215-220g lipo.

There is plenty of room on the sides of the car to add weight. Plus I have the Serpent optional brass front weight that mounts in the front opening of the chassis (I no longer use it).

edit: Forgot nearly all the screws I have above the chassis is aluminum too.

Last edited by Dan; 05-11-2019 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 05-14-2019, 07:01 AM
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My car (minus the battery) comes in at 843g. That's with body on so it's relatively light. I need to work on left/right balance of the car as I currently have the ESC sitting in it's normal position and it hangs out a bit. Having that weight hang over the side doesn't seem ideal to me. Thinking about turning the ESC on its side to see if the car feels better.
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Old 05-14-2019, 02:20 PM
  #203  
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Interesting tweaks.

http://www.redrc.net/2019/05/rebellion-rc-sf4-carbon-fibre-optionals/
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