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Old 10-17-2018, 11:59 AM
  #211  
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Originally Posted by Serzoni
Testing this weekend..
You can use the gear differential, same as supplied in the kit, in the front of the car. You might have to use some spacers to locate the pulley so it lines up properly with the belt.
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Old 10-17-2018, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by davidl
You can use the gear differential, same as supplied in the kit, in the front of the car. You might have to use some spacers to locate the pulley so it lines up properly with the belt.
That's what this is. It's a carbon spacer to move the stock gear diff pulley over to the center of the car.
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Old 10-17-2018, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by valk
as for the droop measurement. Seen a lot of people measuring it this way recently but i just cant trust that the calipers would be held in a repeatable way...without angle ect. Maybe clearification on how randy does it accurately?
First off, be sure you've already set the camber. Set the calipers to the desired length and lock it in, then measure as close to the hex as possible. It's pretty easy to get the calipers straight once you get used to it, just take a little extra time until you get the method down.

I've been using this method for over 15 years now. Below are the ranges that I use. I am usually within a couple tenths from the middle point of these values when running ride height in the typical 5-5.4mm window.

Asphalt
Front 35-36
Rear 34-35

Carpet
Front 35.5-36.5
Rear 34.5-35.5
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Old 10-17-2018, 09:10 PM
  #214  
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster
First off, be sure you've already set the camber. Set the calipers to the desired length and lock it in, then measure as close to the hex as possible. It's pretty easy to get the calipers straight once you get used to it, just take a little extra time until you get the method down.

I've been using this method for over 15 years now. Below are the ranges that I use. I am usually within a couple tenths from the middle point of these values when running ride height in the typical 5-5.4mm window.

Asphalt
Front 35-36
Rear 34-35

Carpet
Front 35.5-36.5
Rear 34.5-35.5
Those numbers assume a 5mm thick axle correct? I ask because Associated have changed their axle thickness a couple of times.
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Old 10-19-2018, 10:00 AM
  #215  
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Is is safe to say that 4 degrees of caster is optimal for modern touring cars? The lack of options (c-hubs other than 4 degrees) in this area appear to make that the case.
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Old 10-19-2018, 10:20 AM
  #216  
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Originally Posted by JC3
Is is safe to say that 4 degrees of caster is optimal for modern touring cars? The lack of options (c-hubs other than 4 degrees) in this area appear to make that the case.
I'm still surprised that zero manufactures offer 3 and 5 degree C-hubs... you can get 2 and 6 sometimes but this is too much of a change.
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Old 10-19-2018, 02:16 PM
  #217  
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Originally Posted by JC3
Is is safe to say that 4 degrees of caster is optimal for modern touring cars? The lack of options (c-hubs other than 4 degrees) in this area appear to make that the case.
It is usually good on everything, but it can be manipulated somewhat with shims under the arm mount blocks, but that changes anti/pro dive as well.
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Old 10-19-2018, 05:24 PM
  #218  
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I have a tc7.1 which I do very well in usgt, but in tc not so good. I was thinking about get a tc7.2 for tc and leaving my 7.1 for usgt. How do the 2 compare?
As far as I can see there isn't a huge difference.
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Old 10-19-2018, 07:14 PM
  #219  
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Originally Posted by eazy70
I have a tc7.1 which I do very well in usgt, but in tc not so good. I was thinking about get a tc7.2 for tc and leaving my 7.1 for usgt. How do the 2 compare?
As far as I can see there isn't a huge difference.
This is exactly what I do. I used to use TC7.1's for both classes and I really liked that car in both classes. I got the new TC7.2 and I run it in TC and I like it. But to tell you the truth, it's not very different than my TC7.1. They are both excellent cars. If I did have a choice, I would definitely get the TC7.2 though just for some of the very nice features (battery hold down, aluminum diff housing, finer adjustment on camber link inner mount).
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Old 10-20-2018, 04:35 AM
  #220  
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What are the weights in gramms of each piece in this set?
FT Ballast Weights
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Old 10-20-2018, 05:29 AM
  #221  
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Originally Posted by jpx
What are the weights in gramms of each piece in this set?
FT Ballast Weights
"This package includes two twenty gram weights and four ten gram weights, for a total of eighty grams of weight, and necessary hardware."
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Old 10-20-2018, 07:34 AM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by JC3
"This package includes two twenty gram weights and four ten gram weights, for a total of eighty grams of weight, and necessary hardware."
thanks!
couldn‘t find that information on the AE-hp ...

are there any 5g pieces that can be used with screws on the TC7.2?

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Old 10-21-2018, 09:59 AM
  #223  
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I did a 1000 lap testing and training marathon with my TC7.2 this weekend.
Like I mentioned several times before, the car is a pleasure to drive. I would even say, it is the best chassis I have ever driven (coming from TC5, TC6, TC6.1, TC6.2, T4‘2015 and T4‘2017).



I am still very close to the standard setup, with exception to the rear toe in, which I reduced to zero (inner mounts three dots pointing outside and outer mount three dot pointing inside) and the use of the pitch control system. The former change sounds quite drastic, but the car has such a well balanced flex, that it just will turn better, without becoming snappy. So reducing toe is a very effective instrument if you have understeer. The latter change surprised me. The car got better and more calm to drive on the edge. It also looks very slow and allows you to better control it. Overall it became faster by a full tenth per lap over the whole run. So on a medium to high grip (ETS) carpet, you should give it a try.

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Old 10-21-2018, 10:42 AM
  #224  
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Zero toe rear or 0.5 toe rear seemed to be the best on crc black carpet even for my old AE car....
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Old 10-21-2018, 01:13 PM
  #225  
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How about some advice on what the 7 screws do for the inline flex mount? Right now I'm running the front 4 screws and two of the rear screws. I notice a few factory drivers just running the front three screws in the front and nothing out back. Would seem this would increase flex in the back of the car and make the rear stick better, but I've been told the opposite is true, that running the rear screws helps plant the rear end.
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