Team Associated TC7.2 Factory Team
#196
Tech Rookie
When building my car I tried every trick in the book and could not get them to cooperate. Grabbed some of the Yokomo ball ends and have zero issues now.
As far as droop settings go....i am a big fan of using Randy's method. Basically you place the car on 10mm blocks and, using calipers, measure from the ground to the top of the axle. Easier for me then using any normal droop gauge.
As far as droop settings go....i am a big fan of using Randy's method. Basically you place the car on 10mm blocks and, using calipers, measure from the ground to the top of the axle. Easier for me then using any normal droop gauge.
thanks
Mike
#197
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
OK, thanks for that information. Now not be contrary, but. How does this differ from using the bottom of the chassis as the reference and measuring the distance from the bottom of the chassis to the suspension arm as shown in the TC7.2 manual? The only thing I figure is that the final number for the manual method does not include the value of the ride height, but adding that would give you the same value as just measuring over the ride height.
But if you want to consult with the best chassis engineer in the WORLD for RC touring cars and full size indycars, his initials are MR and he lives on the north side of Indianapolis and you know him very well.
#199
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Do the ballends work without needing new studs to go with? I had problems getting them free as well but ended up pinching them on the ballstuds. Of course adjusting them now is a bit of a pain heh.
Havent run my car yet.
as for the droop measurement. Seen a lot of people measuring it this way recently but i just cant trust that the calipers would be held in a repeatable way...without angle ect. Maybe clearification on how randy does it accurately?
Havent run my car yet.
as for the droop measurement. Seen a lot of people measuring it this way recently but i just cant trust that the calipers would be held in a repeatable way...without angle ect. Maybe clearification on how randy does it accurately?
#200
Do the ballends work without needing new studs to go with? I had problems getting them free as well but ended up pinching them on the ballstuds. Of course adjusting them now is a bit of a pain heh.
Havent run my car yet.
as for the droop measurement. Seen a lot of people measuring it this way recently but i just cant trust that the calipers would be held in a repeatable way...without angle ect. Maybe clearification on how randy does it accurately?
Havent run my car yet.
as for the droop measurement. Seen a lot of people measuring it this way recently but i just cant trust that the calipers would be held in a repeatable way...without angle ect. Maybe clearification on how randy does it accurately?
#202
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
OK, thanks for that information. Now not be contrary, but. How does this differ from using the bottom of the chassis as the reference and measuring the distance from the bottom of the chassis to the suspension arm as shown in the TC7.2 manual? The only thing I figure is that the final number for the manual method does not include the value of the ride height, but adding that would give you the same value as just measuring over the ride height.
#204
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
To me, there are only two things that affect droop. First is ride height. Once you set that, you can forget about spring compression. The second thing that sets it is the droop screw setting. Once you have ride height, then you adjust the the droop screw to give you the droop you want. If you change the ride height or change the droop screw setting, droop changes. Those are the only two things that affect the droop setting. Of course, one caveat. You have enough shock travel to hit the droop screw BEFORE you reach the end of the shock. In the old days (TC3) we used collars to limit shock travel in order to set droop. That was before droop screws.
#205
#206
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
To me, there are only two things that affect droop. First is ride height. Once you set that, you can forget about spring compression. The second thing that sets it is the droop screw setting. Once you have ride height, then you adjust the the droop screw to give you the droop you want. If you change the ride height or change the droop screw setting, droop changes. Those are the only two things that affect the droop setting. Of course, one caveat. You have enough shock travel to hit the droop screw BEFORE you reach the end of the shock. In the old days (TC3) we used collars to limit shock travel in order to set droop. That was before droop screws.
#207
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
I want to thank those that have addressed my question plus the add on questions. I am a 30+ year pan car guy that got his first TC last year. It is fun and has taught me much that I can translate to my 1/8th nitro ride. Plus is gives me something to race when the 1/12 guys don't show.
#208
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
I want to thank those that have addressed my question plus the add on questions. I am a 30+ year pan car guy that got his first TC last year. It is fun and has taught me much that I can translate to my 1/8th nitro ride. Plus is gives me something to race when the 1/12 guys don't show.