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Old 10-16-2018, 08:41 AM
  #196  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
When building my car I tried every trick in the book and could not get them to cooperate. Grabbed some of the Yokomo ball ends and have zero issues now.

As far as droop settings go....i am a big fan of using Randy's method. Basically you place the car on 10mm blocks and, using calipers, measure from the ground to the top of the axle. Easier for me then using any normal droop gauge.
Thank you Matt, I tried and tried, just built a B6.1D, Igt8 and Tekno 48.4 and could not get them free. What is the PN for the Yokomo ball ends you used?

thanks
Mike
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Old 10-16-2018, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by davidl
OK, thanks for that information. Now not be contrary, but. How does this differ from using the bottom of the chassis as the reference and measuring the distance from the bottom of the chassis to the suspension arm as shown in the TC7.2 manual? The only thing I figure is that the final number for the manual method does not include the value of the ride height, but adding that would give you the same value as just measuring over the ride height.
Basically it's the same thing. Personally, I take the wheels off, place my chassis on a couple of 10mm blocks and then use a set of calipers to measure from the top of the axles down to the setup plate. I find that it's more accurate then using the droop gage that goes off the bottom of the chassis. A lot of guys place their chassis on 10mm blocks then with setup wheels on the car, measure the gap from the bottom of the setup wheels to the setup plate.

But if you want to consult with the best chassis engineer in the WORLD for RC touring cars and full size indycars, his initials are MR and he lives on the north side of Indianapolis and you know him very well.
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Old 10-16-2018, 11:22 AM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by Val214
Thank you Matt, I tried and tried, just built a B6.1D, Igt8 and Tekno 48.4 and could not get them free. What is the PN for the Yokomo ball ends you used?

thanks
Mike
YOKB7-207
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Old 10-16-2018, 11:39 AM
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Do the ballends work without needing new studs to go with? I had problems getting them free as well but ended up pinching them on the ballstuds. Of course adjusting them now is a bit of a pain heh.
Havent run my car yet.

as for the droop measurement. Seen a lot of people measuring it this way recently but i just cant trust that the calipers would be held in a repeatable way...without angle ect. Maybe clearification on how randy does it accurately?
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Old 10-16-2018, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by valk
Do the ballends work without needing new studs to go with? I had problems getting them free as well but ended up pinching them on the ballstuds. Of course adjusting them now is a bit of a pain heh.
Havent run my car yet.

as for the droop measurement. Seen a lot of people measuring it this way recently but i just cant trust that the calipers would be held in a repeatable way...without angle ect. Maybe clearification on how randy does it accurately?
Ballends work perfectly fine with AE studs. As far as droop settings...yeah there is going to be some slight difference in the measurement aspect but its there with any setting. You should be able to accuarately get within .1mm using this method. I extend the caliper long and then drop it onto the axle closest to the hex. It's repeatable.
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Old 10-16-2018, 02:31 PM
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I appreciate all of the suggestions, but wonder why no one has mentioned spring compression at ride height as part of the topic?
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Old 10-16-2018, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by davidl
OK, thanks for that information. Now not be contrary, but. How does this differ from using the bottom of the chassis as the reference and measuring the distance from the bottom of the chassis to the suspension arm as shown in the TC7.2 manual? The only thing I figure is that the final number for the manual method does not include the value of the ride height, but adding that would give you the same value as just measuring over the ride height.
Different cars have different geometry, using the method in the manual isn't comparable to other manufacturers cars. The x over ride height method is useful when getting general advice not specific to the car.
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Old 10-16-2018, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by davidl
I appreciate all of the suggestions, but wonder why no one has mentioned spring compression at ride height as part of the topic?
I'm not sure what you want mentioned here. As long as you have some droop, the spring compression at ride height is unrelated to droop. It's a function of the spring rate, chassis weight and geometry.
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Old 10-16-2018, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by davidl
I appreciate all of the suggestions, but wonder why no one has mentioned spring compression at ride height as part of the topic?
To me, there are only two things that affect droop. First is ride height. Once you set that, you can forget about spring compression. The second thing that sets it is the droop screw setting. Once you have ride height, then you adjust the the droop screw to give you the droop you want. If you change the ride height or change the droop screw setting, droop changes. Those are the only two things that affect the droop setting. Of course, one caveat. You have enough shock travel to hit the droop screw BEFORE you reach the end of the shock. In the old days (TC3) we used collars to limit shock travel in order to set droop. That was before droop screws.
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Old 10-16-2018, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by glennhl
In the old days (TC3) we used collars to limit shock travel in order to set droop. That was before droop screws.
Dayyummm, You are old!
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Old 10-16-2018, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by glennhl
To me, there are only two things that affect droop. First is ride height. Once you set that, you can forget about spring compression. The second thing that sets it is the droop screw setting. Once you have ride height, then you adjust the the droop screw to give you the droop you want. If you change the ride height or change the droop screw setting, droop changes. Those are the only two things that affect the droop setting. Of course, one caveat. You have enough shock travel to hit the droop screw BEFORE you reach the end of the shock. In the old days (TC3) we used collars to limit shock travel in order to set droop. That was before droop screws.
The TC3 actually had a rolling change to switch to droop screws.
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Old 10-16-2018, 07:07 PM
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I want to thank those that have addressed my question plus the add on questions. I am a 30+ year pan car guy that got his first TC last year. It is fun and has taught me much that I can translate to my 1/8th nitro ride. Plus is gives me something to race when the 1/12 guys don't show.
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Old 10-16-2018, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by davidl
I want to thank those that have addressed my question plus the add on questions. I am a 30+ year pan car guy that got his first TC last year. It is fun and has taught me much that I can translate to my 1/8th nitro ride. Plus is gives me something to race when the 1/12 guys don't show.
and it gives me a chance to pick your brain about snother car, too!
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Old 10-17-2018, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by BadSign
and it gives me a chance to pick your brain about snother car, too!
I don't know if you really want to pick my brain. I am so old that those dead brain cells in there have altered my speech pattern to some sort of gobbely-gook that ends up being "x over ride height." I might be better off just bringing the bone to you to throw again.
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Old 10-17-2018, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Lone Drifter
Will there be a front Diff option for the Tc7.2 or will it only have a spool .
Testing this weekend..



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