261LikesTeam Associated TC7.2 Factory Team
10-08-2018, 06:29 PM
#166
10-08-2018, 11:00 PM
#167
Ok guys - thank you all for calming me down! ��
In the beginning the weights where diagonally FL and RR heavier than FR an FL
I just had to turn the preload rings a few millimeters to achive the above posted distribution - but than I was worried as I didn‘t expect it to be normal, that just one end shows that discrepancy at the same time when everthing else seem perfectly straight and level.
Anyway - no more worries so far! Hope to get some tracktime on thursday! ��
In the beginning the weights where diagonally FL and RR heavier than FR an FL
I just had to turn the preload rings a few millimeters to achive the above posted distribution - but than I was worried as I didn‘t expect it to be normal, that just one end shows that discrepancy at the same time when everthing else seem perfectly straight and level.
Anyway - no more worries so far! Hope to get some tracktime on thursday! ��
10-09-2018, 06:17 AM
#169
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
TC7.2 maiden voyage
Well... took a little break because of the summer heat and finally got back out to run the 7.2. This is the first time running since reedy last May and I stepped up to the mod game. Typically I run stock, but I figured it was time to jump up at least for local races. Showed up to the track, still needed a couple corrections and a body mounted (due to my poor mechanic skills lol) but car was flawless all day, mod is definitely a different world but can’t wait to get back out there this weekend! 
10-11-2018, 05:16 AM
#170
Tech Initiate
Try shocks
I finally finished building mine! Very excited to have my first test drive.
But after adjusting and doing all measurments I got little bit confused:
weight on the singe wheels are (ready to drive, no body):
front: 294g 294g
rear: 288g 300g
what may I have done wrong, that the rear wheels show such a difference while everthing else seems to be prefect?
ride hight is:
front: 5.4 5.4
rear: 5.6 5.6
tweak also seems to be fine as well:
both wheels are lifting from ground in front at the same time, when lifting the car in front - respectively in the rear.
... it‘s not my first TC I was building ...
Any ideas what I may check again?
But after adjusting and doing all measurments I got little bit confused:
weight on the singe wheels are (ready to drive, no body):
front: 294g 294g
rear: 288g 300g
what may I have done wrong, that the rear wheels show such a difference while everthing else seems to be prefect?
ride hight is:
front: 5.4 5.4
rear: 5.6 5.6
tweak also seems to be fine as well:
both wheels are lifting from ground in front at the same time, when lifting the car in front - respectively in the rear.
... it‘s not my first TC I was building ...
Any ideas what I may check again?
10-11-2018, 12:03 PM
#171
Tech Apprentice
I recently ordered a 7.2 kit, any tips for the build to make it go as smoothly as possible? I will be building it with the aluminum chassis as my local track is high grip CRC carpet.
10-11-2018, 05:02 PM
#172
Make sure to measure the weight of the diff BEFORE you put any fluid in it. I filled to a level and unless I completely take it apart and clean each part individually, I get too much fluid when filling to a level. Go the weight method, then residual fluid is not a problem.
10-11-2018, 05:04 PM
#173
Well... took a little break because of the summer heat and finally got back out to run the 7.2. This is the first time running since reedy last May and I stepped up to the mod game. Typically I run stock, but I figured it was time to jump up at least for local races. Showed up to the track, still needed a couple corrections and a body mounted (due to my poor mechanic skills lol) but car was flawless all day, mod is definitely a different world but can’t wait to get back out there this weekend!
10-11-2018, 07:22 PM
#174
Tech Apprentice
Make sure to measure the weight of the diff BEFORE you put any fluid in it. I filled to a level and unless I completely take it apart and clean each part individually, I get too much fluid when filling to a level. Go the weight method, then residual fluid is not a problem.
10-12-2018, 03:25 AM
#175
Make sure to measure the weight of the diff BEFORE you put any fluid in it. I filled to a level and unless I completely take it apart and clean each part individually, I get too much fluid when filling to a level. Go the weight method, then residual fluid is not a problem.
10-12-2018, 04:14 AM
#176
It's the method for putting the exact same amount back into your diff each time you rebuild. This keeps the diff's performance exact. Too much fluid or too little and the diff acts differently and can change the handling of car. Precise measuring keeps the diff characteristics constant.
10-12-2018, 08:25 AM
#177
This is what happens if you use the level measurement method.
1) Build it originally using the level method, everything is fine.
2) Decide to change fluid to different viscosity
3) Take the diff apart. The parts you take out (gear set) still has fluid stuck to it
4) Put in new fluid using level measurement
5) The residual fluid that is on the other parts you took out, now make it so the diff is overfilled.
If you weigh the diff dry when you first build it, say it ways 20.5 grams. Now you fill it to 22.5 grams. Now if you take it apart and fill it again to 22.5 grams total, you will be fine, there will be the right amount of fluid in the diff.
My experience when using the level method is I overfilled the diff using the level measurement because of the residual oil on the parts that I removed. And this resulted in a very stiff diff and caused the car to oversteer badly on corner exits. I checked with some 7.2 owners and found out that the dry diff weighs 20.5 grams. I filled to 22.5 and the diff got looser and my problem with oversteer on exit went away.
1) Build it originally using the level method, everything is fine.
2) Decide to change fluid to different viscosity
3) Take the diff apart. The parts you take out (gear set) still has fluid stuck to it
4) Put in new fluid using level measurement
5) The residual fluid that is on the other parts you took out, now make it so the diff is overfilled.
If you weigh the diff dry when you first build it, say it ways 20.5 grams. Now you fill it to 22.5 grams. Now if you take it apart and fill it again to 22.5 grams total, you will be fine, there will be the right amount of fluid in the diff.
My experience when using the level method is I overfilled the diff using the level measurement because of the residual oil on the parts that I removed. And this resulted in a very stiff diff and caused the car to oversteer badly on corner exits. I checked with some 7.2 owners and found out that the dry diff weighs 20.5 grams. I filled to 22.5 and the diff got looser and my problem with oversteer on exit went away.
10-12-2018, 08:44 AM
#178
Filling A Diff: Level vs Weight Method
This is what happens if you use the level measurement method.
1) Build it originally using the level method, everything is fine.
2) Decide to change fluid to different viscosity
3) Take the diff apart. The parts you take out (gear set) still has fluid stuck to it
4) Put in new fluid using level measurement
5) The residual fluid that is on the other parts you took out, now make it so the diff is overfilled.
If you weigh the diff dry when you first build it, say it ways 20.5 grams. Now you fill it to 22.5 grams. Now if you take it apart and fill it again to 22.5 grams total, you will be fine, there will be the right amount of fluid in the diff.
My experience when using the level method is I overfilled the diff using the level measurement because of the residual oil on the parts that I removed. And this resulted in a very stiff diff and caused the car to oversteer badly on corner exits. I checked with some 7.2 owners and found out that the dry diff weighs 20.5 grams. I filled to 22.5 and the diff got looser and my problem with oversteer on exit went away.
1) Build it originally using the level method, everything is fine.
2) Decide to change fluid to different viscosity
3) Take the diff apart. The parts you take out (gear set) still has fluid stuck to it
4) Put in new fluid using level measurement
5) The residual fluid that is on the other parts you took out, now make it so the diff is overfilled.
If you weigh the diff dry when you first build it, say it ways 20.5 grams. Now you fill it to 22.5 grams. Now if you take it apart and fill it again to 22.5 grams total, you will be fine, there will be the right amount of fluid in the diff.
My experience when using the level method is I overfilled the diff using the level measurement because of the residual oil on the parts that I removed. And this resulted in a very stiff diff and caused the car to oversteer badly on corner exits. I checked with some 7.2 owners and found out that the dry diff weighs 20.5 grams. I filled to 22.5 and the diff got looser and my problem with oversteer on exit went away.
10-12-2018, 02:06 PM
#179
Tech Master
There's some great tips and videos that Chris Grainger has done that we've posted on the Uk team FB page.
https://www.facebook.com/AEUKTC/
https://www.facebook.com/AEUKTC/
10-12-2018, 03:48 PM
#180
Hey guys, I've got some new releases for the 7.2 from 1up Racing! All are in stock and ready to ship!
Check out the full details at https://www.1upracing.com/product-category/tc7/
150135 - Center Pulley Spacer & Spur Plate Set
150136 - Blue 7075 Aluminum Upper Screw Set
150137 - Carbon Fiber Center Link Set "Pitch Control"
Check out the full details at https://www.1upracing.com/product-category/tc7/
150135 - Center Pulley Spacer & Spur Plate Set
150136 - Blue 7075 Aluminum Upper Screw Set
150137 - Carbon Fiber Center Link Set "Pitch Control"