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Team Associated TC7.2 Factory Team

Old 12-29-2018, 07:47 PM
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For now a tuned Maclan MMR Team Edition V2 with with aluminum screw kit.
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Old 12-29-2018, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
For now a tuned Maclan MMR Team Edition V2 with with aluminum screw kit.
Sorry, Iím not familiar with that motor however, I usually start a new 17.5 around 5.0 then slowly gear up while watching temperature, assuming youíve found the ideal timing.
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Old 12-30-2018, 02:07 AM
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Maclan V2 17.5 with aluminum screw set coupled with the option Orange rotor will make some serious torque and hp.
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Old 12-30-2018, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by trigger View Post
Maclan V2 17.5 with aluminum screw set coupled with the option Orange rotor will make some serious torque and hp.
It has the optional rotor. So for 64 pitch according to TQ racings site, the T7.2 has a 2.00 internal ratio, and having a 96 tooth spur means I would need a 38 tooth pinion. Sound about right?
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Old 12-30-2018, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
It has the optional rotor. So for 64 pitch according to TQ racings site, the T7.2 has a 2.00 internal ratio, and having a 96 tooth spur means I would need a 38 tooth pinion. Sound about right?
Yep, thatíll get you to 5.
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Old 12-31-2018, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
It has the optional rotor. So for 64 pitch according to TQ racings site, the T7.2 has a 2.00 internal ratio, and having a 96 tooth spur means I would need a 38 tooth pinion. Sound about right?
This would give you a FDR of 5.05. Seems a bit short to me. I've always had good luck running a 4.00 or lower FDR with a 17.5 motor. If I were you, I'd start with a 48 tooth pinion. That will give you a 4.00 FDR when using the 96 tooth spur. Good luck.
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:33 PM
  #292  
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Originally Posted by glennhl View Post
This would give you a FDR of 5.05. Seems a bit short to me. I've always had good luck running a 4.00 or lower FDR with a 17.5 motor. If I were you, I'd start with a 48 tooth pinion. That will give you a 4.00 FDR when using the 96 tooth spur. Good luck.
17.5t motors from 3 years ago liked 4.0ish fdr, but many of the new crop of motors like closer to 5.0fdr. Better to start at 5.0 and work from there than to start at 4.0 and potentially overheat.

i actually had this happen to me a couple of years ago. I bought a new 17.5t motor and was told to set the timing to 45 degrees and use a 4.0 fdr. After 3 minutes, it came off at 221F. Turns out the motor wanted 4.73 fdr and 35 degrees timing.
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Old 01-01-2019, 03:12 AM
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Unlike motors like the MC2 which are very torquey and R1 which like to rev out, The Maclan V2 is a great compromise for torque and RPM. Small tracks (ie: tq raceway, cal raceway) I like 4.2 to 3.9 at 48deg.
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Last edited by trigger; 01-01-2019 at 11:21 AM.
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Old 01-01-2019, 08:25 AM
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I agree with trigger, I like 4.00 to 4.20 for 17.5 blinky around 48 to 50 degrees. I don't mind my motors coming off around 160-170 temp. I seem run my fastest laps at those temps, with no more fade at the end than anyone else.
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Old 01-07-2019, 03:15 PM
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None of the setup sheets I've seen mention this, but are people still drilling a small hole in the top of the shock to reduce rebound?
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Old 01-07-2019, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin Marcy View Post
None of the setup sheets I've seen mention this, but are people still drilling a small hole in the top of the shock to reduce rebound?
Hi Kevin. Take a look at the setup sheets for this car on the Associated website. Look for the sheet from Eric Epp at the 2018 race in Vegas, He has that noted as a mod to the shock cap.

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Old 01-10-2019, 06:19 AM
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I just finished my TC7.2 built and found a strange ball cup issue. Scrolling through this thread I haven't seen this issue in other build reports mentioned before.
The ball cups that come with the kit look like the weak ones, I know from my TC6.2, but the material seems to be different. When snapping the ball cups on the ball studs, they are sitting so tight that is causes a binding like I haven't seen before.
The manual speaks about squeezing the ball cup in case of a binding, but no matter how much I sqeeze or massage the cups, the binding still locks every free movement of the suspension and steering.
I ordered an new set of ball cups, but I'm curious, if my ball cups are just outliers.
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Old 01-10-2019, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Fantuzzi View Post
I just finished my TC7.2 built and found a strange ball cup issue. Scrolling through this thread I haven't seen this issue in other build reports mentioned before.
The ball cups that come with the kit look like the weak ones, I know from my TC6.2, but the material seems to be different. When snapping the ball cups on the ball studs, they are sitting so tight that is causes a binding like I haven't seen before.
The manual speaks about squeezing the ball cup in case of a binding, but no matter how much I sqeeze or massage the cups, the binding still locks every free movement of the suspension and steering.
I ordered an new set of ball cups, but I'm curious, if my ball cups are just outliers.
The yokomo BD7 ones work well, but the ones from xenon are even better
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Old 01-10-2019, 08:08 AM
  #299  
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Originally Posted by YBSLOW View Post
The yokomo BD7 ones work well, but the ones from xenon are even better
Part # for the Xenon ones??
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Old 01-10-2019, 11:05 AM
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I got mine at apexrc.com
not sure what the pn is off the top of my head, but I think it is RDE-0043
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