Team Associated TC7.2 Factory Team
#182
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#183
Finally I found the time to shakedown the chassis properly. And again I am very impressed. The way of positioning the chassis on the racetrack is absolutly stunning. The steering is so precise and the way how the rear follows is amazing. The line I am possible to take is tight tight tight! The whole car on the limit makes it feel like there is nothing easier to do.
The base setup works extremely well with Sorex 28 black and the PF Type S body.
#184
Tech Elite
Nice wheel decals!
#185
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
Hi guys, new to TC and have my new TC7.2. I setup my turnbuckles as per the manual. Putting my car on setup station. Made tiny adjustments with turnbuckles to set at 2 degrees camber front and rear.
Does it matter if turnbuckles have no more than about 0.5mm difference in length?
Does it matter if turnbuckles have no more than about 0.5mm difference in length?
#186
Tech Apprentice
Hi guys, new to TC and have my new TC7.2. I setup my turnbuckles as per the manual. Putting my car on setup station. Made tiny adjustments with turnbuckles to set at 2 degrees camber front and rear.
Does it matter if turnbuckles have no more than about 0.5mm difference in length?
Does it matter if turnbuckles have no more than about 0.5mm difference in length?
#187
Mine was even worse. I had diagonal the same weight, but every other side was off 20 gr. The chassis is perfect straight, everything ok. I blame the light motor for it. The actual Hobbywing motors are 20-30 gr. lighter than my X20 is. In the end I just needed a little adjustment on the shocks to make it even on all tires.
After several steps of moving the weights in the car, measuring the weight on every single wheel, adjusting the ride height and measuring the weights again and again this is where I ended up:
FL: 302.0g FR: 301.5g
RL: 303.5g RR: 303.7g
I agree with wtcc blaming it on the lighter motors.
I now have 20g behind my motor, 10g on the left outside of the esc, 15g left front and 10g on the right front of the steering rack and 5g right in the center of the car (using a 5000mAh Arrowmax battery).
So even if it‘s not necessary to balance the car to that perfection I learned a lot experimenting - e.g. 1/8th of a turn on the springs preload rings will change the weight on that wheel for about 1g or more (without really effecting the ride height) and therefore also changing the weight balance on every other wheel a little.
Last edited by jpx; 10-14-2018 at 10:56 PM.
#191
Here is another, more practical, way to look at it. Essentially, he is looking at droop over ride height or as you put it xmm over ride height.
#192
Tech Rookie
Just Finished building TC7.2. I setup my turnbuckles as per the manual, but they are tighter/snug not freee at all. Is this a non issue with this car? I have built a ton of cars and have 5 sitting here now they all rotate freely. I did do the needle nose pinch, and they are still to tight. Anyone have advice on how to free them up? Thanks
First time posting,
First time posting,
#193
Tech Elite
iTrader: (171)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Brooklyn New York GO HARD OR GO HOME!!!!!!
Posts: 4,362
Trader Rating: 171 (100%+)
take a pair of plies or needle nose and just give a small squeeze on the part thats is around the ball stud. DO NOT SQUEEZE TO HARD JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE IT LOOSE
#194
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
OK, thanks for that information. Now not be contrary, but. How does this differ from using the bottom of the chassis as the reference and measuring the distance from the bottom of the chassis to the suspension arm as shown in the TC7.2 manual? The only thing I figure is that the final number for the manual method does not include the value of the ride height, but adding that would give you the same value as just measuring over the ride height.
#195
As far as droop settings go....i am a big fan of using Randy's method. Basically you place the car on 10mm blocks and, using calipers, measure from the ground to the top of the axle. Easier for me then using any normal droop gauge.