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Old 10-12-2018, 05:50 PM
  #181  
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Randy, when will the aluminum tierod kit be available?
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Old 10-13-2018, 05:31 AM
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Old 10-13-2018, 11:32 AM
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Finally I found the time to shakedown the chassis properly. And again I am very impressed. The way of positioning the chassis on the racetrack is absolutly stunning. The steering is so precise and the way how the rear follows is amazing. The line I am possible to take is tight tight tight! The whole car on the limit makes it feel like there is nothing easier to do.
The base setup works extremely well with Sorex 28 black and the PF Type S body.

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Old 10-13-2018, 02:36 PM
  #184  
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Nice wheel decals!
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Old 10-13-2018, 08:27 PM
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Hi guys, new to TC and have my new TC7.2. I setup my turnbuckles as per the manual. Putting my car on setup station. Made tiny adjustments with turnbuckles to set at 2 degrees camber front and rear.
Does it matter if turnbuckles have no more than about 0.5mm difference in length?
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Old 10-13-2018, 10:39 PM
  #186  
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Originally Posted by SuperRC View Post
Hi guys, new to TC and have my new TC7.2. I setup my turnbuckles as per the manual. Putting my car on setup station. Made tiny adjustments with turnbuckles to set at 2 degrees camber front and rear.
Does it matter if turnbuckles have no more than about 0.5mm difference in length?
As long as it reads 2 on the gauge a small discrepancy in length won't be a problem, there will always be little differences due to slop, less than exact assembly, etc.
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Old 10-14-2018, 10:28 AM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
Mine was even worse. I had diagonal the same weight, but every other side was off 20 gr. The chassis is perfect straight, everything ok. I blame the light motor for it. The actual Hobbywing motors are 20-30 gr. lighter than my X20 is. In the end I just needed a little adjustment on the shocks to make it even on all tires.
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
This is not enough weight discrepancy to worry about. 12g and the car is level and straight isn't a big deal.
Originally Posted by gigaplex View Post
Agreed, I rarely see cars that close before tweaking the preload springs to compensate.
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Correct...Mine are usually over 60grams off....This tc7.2 is already perfectly balanced to me......
I was a little nosy and took some time to see how close I could get to a perfect balance - even if 12g max. difference between all wheels shouldn‘t be a problem.

After several steps of moving the weights in the car, measuring the weight on every single wheel, adjusting the ride height and measuring the weights again and again this is where I ended up:
FL: 302.0g FR: 301.5g
RL: 303.5g RR: 303.7g
I agree with wtcc blaming it on the lighter motors.
I now have 20g behind my motor, 10g on the left outside of the esc, 15g left front and 10g on the right front of the steering rack and 5g right in the center of the car (using a 5000mAh Arrowmax battery).

So even if it‘s not necessary to balance the car to that perfection I learned a lot experimenting - e.g. 1/8th of a turn on the springs preload rings will change the weight on that wheel for about 1g or more (without really effecting the ride height) and therefore also changing the weight balance on every other wheel a little.
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Last edited by jpx; 10-14-2018 at 10:56 PM.
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Old 10-15-2018, 09:49 PM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by glennhl View Post
Randy, when will the aluminum tierod kit be available?
Still going to be a couple months, my vendor is pretty backed up right now unfortunately.
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Old 10-15-2018, 10:54 PM
  #189  
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Can someone explain to me the term "xmm over ride height" when setting droop? Not very much experience with TC's on my end.
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Old 10-15-2018, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by davidl View Post
Can someone explain to me the term "xmm over ride height" when setting droop? Not very much experience with TC's on my end.
It's basically how far over ride height the chassis raises before the wheels lift off the ground.
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Old 10-16-2018, 03:39 AM
  #191  
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Originally Posted by davidl View Post
Can someone explain to me the term "xmm over ride height" when setting droop? Not very much experience with TC's on my end.
Here is an decent video on the subject. Droop over ride height is covered first, then various other methods of measuring droop.


Here is another, more practical, way to look at it. Essentially, he is looking at droop over ride height or as you put it xmm over ride height.

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Old 10-16-2018, 05:40 AM
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Just Finished building TC7.2. I setup my turnbuckles as per the manual, but they are tighter/snug not freee at all. Is this a non issue with this car? I have built a ton of cars and have 5 sitting here now they all rotate freely. I did do the needle nose pinch, and they are still to tight. Anyone have advice on how to free them up? Thanks

First time posting,
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Old 10-16-2018, 07:25 AM
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take a pair of plies or needle nose and just give a small squeeze on the part thats is around the ball stud. DO NOT SQUEEZE TO HARD JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE IT LOOSE
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Old 10-16-2018, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by gigaplex View Post
It's basically how far over ride height the chassis raises before the wheels lift off the ground.
OK, thanks for that information. Now not be contrary, but. How does this differ from using the bottom of the chassis as the reference and measuring the distance from the bottom of the chassis to the suspension arm as shown in the TC7.2 manual? The only thing I figure is that the final number for the manual method does not include the value of the ride height, but adding that would give you the same value as just measuring over the ride height.
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Old 10-16-2018, 08:24 AM
  #195  
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Originally Posted by GeorgePravata View Post
take a pair of plies or needle nose and just give a small squeeze on the part thats is around the ball stud. DO NOT SQUEEZE TO HARD JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE IT LOOSE
When building my car I tried every trick in the book and could not get them to cooperate. Grabbed some of the Yokomo ball ends and have zero issues now.

As far as droop settings go....i am a big fan of using Randy's method. Basically you place the car on 10mm blocks and, using calipers, measure from the ground to the top of the axle. Easier for me then using any normal droop gauge.
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