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Old 10-11-2018, 08:22 PM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by glennhl View Post
Make sure to measure the weight of the diff BEFORE you put any fluid in it. I filled to a level and unless I completely take it apart and clean each part individually, I get too much fluid when filling to a level. Go the weight method, then residual fluid is not a problem.
Thanks for the tip
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Old 10-12-2018, 04:25 AM
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Originally Posted by glennhl View Post
Make sure to measure the weight of the diff BEFORE you put any fluid in it. I filled to a level and unless I completely take it apart and clean each part individually, I get too much fluid when filling to a level. Go the weight method, then residual fluid is not a problem.
I never have understood this. What is the advantage of the weight method?
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Old 10-12-2018, 05:14 AM
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It's the method for putting the exact same amount back into your diff each time you rebuild. This keeps the diff's performance exact. Too much fluid or too little and the diff acts differently and can change the handling of car. Precise measuring keeps the diff characteristics constant.
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Old 10-12-2018, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by JC3 View Post
I never have understood this. What is the advantage of the weight method?
This is what happens if you use the level measurement method.

1) Build it originally using the level method, everything is fine.
2) Decide to change fluid to different viscosity
3) Take the diff apart. The parts you take out (gear set) still has fluid stuck to it
4) Put in new fluid using level measurement
5) The residual fluid that is on the other parts you took out, now make it so the diff is overfilled.

If you weigh the diff dry when you first build it, say it ways 20.5 grams. Now you fill it to 22.5 grams. Now if you take it apart and fill it again to 22.5 grams total, you will be fine, there will be the right amount of fluid in the diff.

My experience when using the level method is I overfilled the diff using the level measurement because of the residual oil on the parts that I removed. And this resulted in a very stiff diff and caused the car to oversteer badly on corner exits. I checked with some 7.2 owners and found out that the dry diff weighs 20.5 grams. I filled to 22.5 and the diff got looser and my problem with oversteer on exit went away.
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Old 10-12-2018, 09:44 AM
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Default Filling A Diff: Level vs Weight Method

Originally Posted by glennhl View Post
This is what happens if you use the level measurement method.

1) Build it originally using the level method, everything is fine.
2) Decide to change fluid to different viscosity
3) Take the diff apart. The parts you take out (gear set) still has fluid stuck to it
4) Put in new fluid using level measurement
5) The residual fluid that is on the other parts you took out, now make it so the diff is overfilled.

If you weigh the diff dry when you first build it, say it ways 20.5 grams. Now you fill it to 22.5 grams. Now if you take it apart and fill it again to 22.5 grams total, you will be fine, there will be the right amount of fluid in the diff.

My experience when using the level method is I overfilled the diff using the level measurement because of the residual oil on the parts that I removed. And this resulted in a very stiff diff and caused the car to oversteer badly on corner exits. I checked with some 7.2 owners and found out that the dry diff weighs 20.5 grams. I filled to 22.5 and the diff got looser and my problem with oversteer on exit went away.
Thank you for putting together such a thorough explanation! Now I fully understand. The effect of the residual oil had escaped me until you pointed it out.
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Old 10-12-2018, 03:06 PM
  #171  
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There's some great tips and videos that Chris Grainger has done that we've posted on the Uk team FB page.

https://www.facebook.com/AEUKTC/
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Old 10-12-2018, 04:48 PM
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Hey guys, I've got some new releases for the 7.2 from 1up Racing! All are in stock and ready to ship!

Check out the full details at https://www.1upracing.com/product-category/tc7/

150135 - Center Pulley Spacer & Spur Plate Set
150136 - Blue 7075 Aluminum Upper Screw Set
150137 - Carbon Fiber Center Link Set "Pitch Control"





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Old 10-12-2018, 06:50 PM
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Randy, when will the aluminum tierod kit be available?
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Old 10-13-2018, 06:31 AM
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Old 10-13-2018, 12:32 PM
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Finally I found the time to shakedown the chassis properly. And again I am very impressed. The way of positioning the chassis on the racetrack is absolutly stunning. The steering is so precise and the way how the rear follows is amazing. The line I am possible to take is tight tight tight! The whole car on the limit makes it feel like there is nothing easier to do.
The base setup works extremely well with Sorex 28 black and the PF Type S body.

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Old 10-13-2018, 03:36 PM
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Nice wheel decals!
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Old 10-13-2018, 09:27 PM
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Hi guys, new to TC and have my new TC7.2. I setup my turnbuckles as per the manual. Putting my car on setup station. Made tiny adjustments with turnbuckles to set at 2 degrees camber front and rear.
Does it matter if turnbuckles have no more than about 0.5mm difference in length?
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Old 10-13-2018, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperRC View Post
Hi guys, new to TC and have my new TC7.2. I setup my turnbuckles as per the manual. Putting my car on setup station. Made tiny adjustments with turnbuckles to set at 2 degrees camber front and rear.
Does it matter if turnbuckles have no more than about 0.5mm difference in length?
As long as it reads 2 on the gauge a small discrepancy in length won't be a problem, there will always be little differences due to slop, less than exact assembly, etc.
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Old 10-14-2018, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
Mine was even worse. I had diagonal the same weight, but every other side was off 20 gr. The chassis is perfect straight, everything ok. I blame the light motor for it. The actual Hobbywing motors are 20-30 gr. lighter than my X20 is. In the end I just needed a little adjustment on the shocks to make it even on all tires.
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
This is not enough weight discrepancy to worry about. 12g and the car is level and straight isn't a big deal.
Originally Posted by gigaplex View Post
Agreed, I rarely see cars that close before tweaking the preload springs to compensate.
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Correct...Mine are usually over 60grams off....This tc7.2 is already perfectly balanced to me......
I was a little nosy and took some time to see how close I could get to a perfect balance - even if 12g max. difference between all wheels shouldn‘t be a problem.

After several steps of moving the weights in the car, measuring the weight on every single wheel, adjusting the ride height and measuring the weights again and again this is where I ended up:
FL: 302.0g FR: 301.5g
RL: 303.5g RR: 303.7g
I agree with wtcc blaming it on the lighter motors.
I now have 20g behind my motor, 10g on the left outside of the esc, 15g left front and 10g on the right front of the steering rack and 5g right in the center of the car (using a 5000mAh Arrowmax battery).

So even if it‘s not necessary to balance the car to that perfection I learned a lot experimenting - e.g. 1/8th of a turn on the springs preload rings will change the weight on that wheel for about 1g or more (without really effecting the ride height) and therefore also changing the weight balance on every other wheel a little.
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Last edited by jpx; 10-14-2018 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 10-15-2018, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by glennhl View Post
Randy, when will the aluminum tierod kit be available?
Still going to be a couple months, my vendor is pretty backed up right now unfortunately.
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