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3RACING Sakura Advance 2K18 EVO

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3RACING Sakura Advance 2K18 EVO

Old 02-25-2019, 12:45 AM
  #301  
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
I literally just saw that on hit tonight ripped a screw straight through the chassis. I dont know what to say. Won the main like that. Kinda bummed about that for sure!
Wow that must have been some hit to the left rear! Surprised if it hasn't also bent the pins?
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Old 02-25-2019, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by LzREngineering View Post
Wow that must have been some hit to the left rear! Surprised if it hasn't also bent the pins?
Yep, was getting used to the new car and clipped a dog leg corner board at full speed with the rear. Ate the dot and went all the way up to the board. OOPS.
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Old 02-25-2019, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post



Grief, I literally just saw that on hit tonight ripped a screw straight through the chassis. I dont know what to say. Won the main like that. Kinda bummed about that for sure!
Ouch, that must have made some noise at the track
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Old 02-25-2019, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by moparSRT View Post
Ouch, that must have made some noise at the track
It was in a qualifier. Everyone cheered. Car went flying through the air, did a crazy snow boarder in the air spin flip, landed on the other side of the upcoming corner pointed the right way. "Excellent placement, Wayne!" and I drove off ignorant to what had happened.

Good thing I didn't see it because it would have psyched me out before the main.
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Old 02-25-2019, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
It was in a qualifier. Everyone cheered. Car went flying through the air, did a crazy snow boarder in the air spin flip, landed on the other side of the upcoming corner pointed the right way. "Excellent placement, Wayne!" and I drove off ignorant to what had happened.

Good thing I didn't see it because it would have psyched me out before the main.
It's only taken off half the carbon, 'ultra-flex' chassis anyone? seeing as you went on to win the final with it you might be on to something!
I used to mount the rear suspension on my xray t1 on rubber washers, giving a similar effect. Made it very easy to drive.
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Old 02-27-2019, 06:39 PM
  #306  
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Pics of the repair progress. Smelled a little like solvent hadn't totally cured, so holding off a day more before drilling and countersinking the hole. New chassis is on the way from HK but if i wanna race this weekend, this repair and some cut down tc5 hinge pins are my only way!
Ground out all Frays


Propped open the split and ca glued back up and ripped out the zip tie


Filled with steel reinforced epoxy


Block sanded down


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Old 02-28-2019, 12:57 AM
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Very neat job. Looks like the chassis isn't perfectly straight but close enough to use as a spare. Wonder how strong it will be?
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Old 02-28-2019, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by LzREngineering View Post
Very neat job. Looks like the chassis isn't perfectly straight but close enough to use as a spare. Wonder how strong it will be?
The chassis is straight. The table is warped as hell from me using harsh chemicals and a heat gun constantly. The rear may have a very small amount shaved off toward the very back due to block sanding, but it wouldn't even approach .1mm for sure. I should measure and see exactly how much thinner it is back there—I suspect it is nothing of consequence.
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Old 02-28-2019, 08:08 PM
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Chassis repair complete! This should get me racing this weekend while I await a replacement. Measured 1.97 mm at very rear and 2.16 elsewhere, meaning I lost .09mm from block sanding. Better put that on my setup sheet when I dominate and become a household name!

All joking aside, here are pics. Seems solid. Definitely solid enough to club a few weeks. Loctited the affected screw so I didn’t have to torque it much and risk cracking the repair, although I doubt it would have.




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Old 03-03-2019, 07:20 PM
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Raced again this weekend with the car. Chassis held brilliantly. Was able to qualify 2nd out of 4 of us that showed today—it was a "snow emergency" and very few people ventured to the track. Managed to obliterate a c-hub and knuckle by catching the inside of a board in our high speed sweeper. Lost one top hat bushing so I couldn't run unless I found a compatible replacement. Damn, should have thought about ordering spares of those bastards. In any case, a marshal found it after the next race so I could throw on my spares and keep going through the 3rd qualifier and main. Also bent the ball stud at the knuckle, but luckily losi 4.8x8 ones worked perfect, even though ours are 9mm long, the other option was 10mm and that looked like it would eat into the drive shaft.

Car did amazing. Our track is relatively small and I'm running 25.5, so a little setup this weekend caused me to go up in oil all around, lower the roll center in the front by 1mm, and throw on the 1.2mm front sway. Now I'm turning like the business in our 180 city.

Wayne
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Old 03-04-2019, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Managed to obliterate a c-hub and knuckle by catching the inside of a board in our high speed sweeper.
Wayne your driving sounds like it's absolutely brutal! I've had some similar crashes (not full-on) where I've caught the inside of the sweeper going flat-out in 17.5t and no breakages so far!
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Old 03-04-2019, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by LzREngineering View Post
Wayne your driving sounds like it's absolutely brutal! I've had some similar crashes (not full-on) where I've caught the inside of the sweeper going flat-out in 17.5t and no breakages so far!
We don't have any aprons or dots in corners (just one dot on the whole track)—just painted 4x4 and 2x4 boards with bricks behind them on black carpet. The corner isn't round, it's got like octagon corners. Hug the inside, you can catch a point. To be honest, I BARELY brushed the edge, but there's no give, and it's over that fast. I've been trying to figure out what we can move to for track barrier as it is absolutely brutal when you barely touch anything at speed.

The broken chassis was me. First day with a TC in 3 years. I sent it through the air. This one, while it was my fault for clipping the inside, I barely realized I brushed it—the barriers just have zero give in some places and pretty much all the cars do what mine did when in this spot. It's rough. It's not the car being weak. Last week I had a 98% consistency in the main and won—literally hit nothing. This week, not so consistent, lol.

Wayne
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Old 03-04-2019, 01:23 PM
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Go with the softer plastic hubs arms & knuckles, they will give you a little flex when you hit stuff. The carbon parts in the 2K18 don't have any give, you hit something and it will break, I am really surprised you broke the hub and not the arm, most of us have broken plenty of front arms here, I installed some U101 arms and have zero problems now


SAK-U101
SAK-U103 C Hub 4 degree
SAK-U105 Knuckle

As for the track, plastic pipes are the way to go, and flappers on the corners keep you from braking parts. Justin is the man to talk to https://www.facebook.com/TrackLyons/
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Old 03-04-2019, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
We don't have any aprons or dots in corners (just one dot on the whole track)—just painted 4x4 and 2x4 boards with bricks behind them on black carpet. The corner isn't round, it's got like octagon corners. Hug the inside, you can catch a point. To be honest, I BARELY brushed the edge, but there's no give, and it's over that fast. I've been trying to figure out what we can move to for track barrier as it is absolutely brutal when you barely touch anything at speed.

The broken chassis was me. First day with a TC in 3 years. I sent it through the air. This one, while it was my fault for clipping the inside, I barely realized I brushed it—the barriers just have zero give in some places and pretty much all the cars do what mine did when in this spot. It's rough. It's not the car being weak. Last week I had a 98% consistency in the main and won—literally hit nothing. This week, not so consistent, lol.

Wayne
Hard corners with 2x4s ... NOOOOOOO!!!!
They need to make some flexible corners out of a plastic called UHMW. See attached drawing. (I'm making some assumptions about how your 2x4 walls are built. Most tracks attach 2 boards together with short pieces of 2x4 between them as spacers, then use 12" long bits of 2x4 to link the sections together.) If everything they race is 1/10 scale, 1/8" or 3/16" thick UHMW will be OK, bigger/heavier cars you'd want 1/4" thick. Make sure the screws holding the pieces together are countersunk! Snagging a screw at 30MPH is just as bad as a sharp corner. Also, if your track is outdoors, you need to get the type of UHMW that is "UV Resistant" (usually only available in black) because sunlight will make it brittle eventually.
Attached Files
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RC Curve.pdf (3.3 KB, 38 views)
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Old 03-04-2019, 05:42 PM
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Even if we just covered the outside of the boards with a solid plastic, it would be way better. I'll see what we can do.
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