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XRAY X12 ‘19

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Old 12-14-2018, 08:35 PM
  #61  
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Ah....what did this high angle produce while driving?
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Old 12-17-2018, 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted by JeffofSpace View Post
Ah....what did this high angle produce while driving?
I feel like less caster will make more steering on entry and less middle/out. I've read a lot of pan car setup guides that indicate the opposite but that does not make sense to me.
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Old 12-18-2018, 07:54 PM
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Thanks for that 👍
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Old 12-21-2018, 12:32 PM
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Has anyone put the Hiro Seiko titanium/aluminum screws on thier x12? If so how much did they actually save on weight?
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Old 12-21-2018, 08:05 PM
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Full car. I thinks it’s like 5-10g if you do all but never weighed.

superstition 🙂

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Old 12-30-2018, 09:45 AM
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Hi,

need some advice on x12 2019 (EU edition) setup.

We are running with 13.5T stock on medium-high grip track which is about 30x9.5 meters. One unusual thing of the track - air temperature about 7-9C.

Car feels quite OK, but it's about 0,4 sec slower than crc xti wc.

Main problem - after entering corner from mid point car pushes to outside.

I have tried all setups from internet, but no mater which setup I use, car still have same outside push at Mid point of corner.

Also I have tried different tyre combinations - didn't helped.

Today I took my old crc xti wc and with stock setup (from manual) it was going like on rails and after few laps I've set my best lap time, so this tells me that this shouldn't be driver error, it's something with xray setup, but can't figure out what exactly is wrong.
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Old 01-08-2019, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by okx View Post
Hi,

need some advice on x12 2019 (EU edition) setup.

We are running with 13.5T stock on medium-high grip track which is about 30x9.5 meters. One unusual thing of the track - air temperature about 7-9C.

Car feels quite OK, but it's about 0,4 sec slower than crc xti wc.

Main problem - after entering corner from mid point car pushes to outside.

I have tried all setups from internet, but no mater which setup I use, car still have same outside push at Mid point of corner.

Also I have tried different tyre combinations - didn't helped.

Today I took my old crc xti wc and with stock setup (from manual) it was going like on rails and after few laps I've set my best lap time, so this tells me that this shouldn't be driver error, it's something with xray setup, but can't figure out what exactly is wrong.
crc has shorter wheelbase, me and several friends run on asphalt, none of our x12 can beat my friend's crc gen x on tight corner no matter what we do. X12 has wheel base of 201mm which is much longer than 198mm of a crc, our front width is also wider making it a more stable yet slower platform on low speed cornering. That is why xray is incorporating shorter wheelbase setup option in their car but the front end adjustment is fake, the only thing you can do is the rear end option that only give you 1mm difference that really don't help much. I draw a 2d cad of xray x12 that is 3mm shorter, hopefully I can get someone make them for me after Chinese new year to try and see how it works
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Old 01-08-2019, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by okx View Post
Hi,

need some advice on x12 2019 (EU edition) setup.

We are running with 13.5T stock on medium-high grip track which is about 30x9.5 meters. One unusual thing of the track - air temperature about 7-9C.

Car feels quite OK, but it's about 0,4 sec slower than crc xti wc.

Main problem - after entering corner from mid point car pushes to outside.

I have tried all setups from internet, but no mater which setup I use, car still have same outside push at Mid point of corner.

Also I have tried different tyre combinations - didn't helped.

Today I took my old crc xti wc and with stock setup (from manual) it was going like on rails and after few laps I've set my best lap time, so this tells me that this shouldn't be driver error, it's something with xray setup, but can't figure out what exactly is wrong.
Are you using the inside holes for your front side links? You can also put 1-2mm shim under the front link ball to give you a little rear steer. And are you running a locker in the rear?.. You could also run a harder tire in the rear and softer up front to give you more steering, it will be harder to drive, but it will be faster if you can hang on to it.. You can also give it more caster to give it more mid-exit steering, but you'll lose some entry, or run stiffer side springs, heavier tube lube, narrow up the rear, narrow up the front, more camber, run it short as you can. Mine turns good, I have to dial some out for most conditions.
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Old 01-09-2019, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ZeroDown7169 View Post
Are you using the inside holes for your front side links? You can also put 1-2mm shim under the front link ball to give you a little rear steer. And are you running a locker in the rear?.. You could also run a harder tire in the rear and softer up front to give you more steering, it will be harder to drive, but it will be faster if you can hang on to it.. You can also give it more caster to give it more mid-exit steering, but you'll lose some entry, or run stiffer side springs, heavier tube lube, narrow up the rear, narrow up the front, more camber, run it short as you can. Mine turns good, I have to dial some out for most conditions.
I was running with side links in outside holes, just now moved them to inside. will need to wait for a weekend to test how it feels.
I was using 1.2 side spring and after changing them to 0.9 I managed to improve my best lap time by 0.2.
Next week I will try to order parts for shorter wheel base.
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Old 01-09-2019, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by okx View Post
I was running with side links in outside holes, just now moved them to inside. will need to wait for a weekend to test how it feels.
I was using 1.2 side spring and after changing them to 0.9 I managed to improve my best lap time by 0.2.
Next week I will try to order parts for shorter wheel base.
As Cody pointed out, move the side links inside and put a 1mm shim under the front of the side link. Do not forget to reset the football after doing this. That will make a huge difference in the cornering. Also the parts to shorten the rear pod make a huge difference as well. Also be sure that the front end is in the short wheelbase position (back holes).
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Old 02-04-2019, 07:41 AM
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Hi, can some one post up what parts to get to remove the front end slop please? i've searched a bit and some say AE parts and some Roche.
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Old 02-04-2019, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by BILKO1 View Post
Hi, can some one post up what parts to get to remove the front end slop please? i've searched a bit and some say AE parts and some Roche.
Honestly, just put two small rubber bands on the steering linkage and a majority of the slop will be gone.
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Old 02-04-2019, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by BILKO1 View Post
Hi, can some one post up what parts to get to remove the front end slop please? i've searched a bit and some say AE parts and some Roche.
You'll need:

roche king pins
1/8 E clips
roche aluminium king pin balls
roche plastic ball cup, for the upper brace
Roche steering blocks
Roche axles
2x4 button head screws
roche uniball long and short, together with their ball cups.

Everything completed with a kimbrough servo saver. Super smooth and perfect front end.
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Old 02-04-2019, 01:44 PM
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Old 02-04-2019, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan the Man View Post
I'm running TQ 16 gauge wire from my ESC to my motor in 13.5 Blinky class. I want to try a mod motor, wondering if I would have to use a larger gauge wire to cope with any extra current draw?
It would be best to move to 12 or 13 gauge wire for mod. 16 gauge gets rather warm in modified.
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