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XRAY T4'19 SPEC

Old 04-16-2019, 03:11 PM
  #436  
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Originally Posted by Panther6834
True, at least in regards to Grade 5 Ti...but the stock hinge & suspension pins and turnbuckles are NOT made of spring steel. The pins are "hardened steel", while the turnbuckles are made of aluminum, BOTH of which are softer than Ti. XRAY, as far as I've been able to determine (and, if I am incorrect, please provide me with the correct info, including part numbers), does not make spring steel hinge & suspension pins, or turnbuckles, for the T4. I am unaware if anyone else does (and, again, if you know of any, I'm sure any number of people would be interested in knowing, including part numbers).

Taking that one step further, just as different grades of Ti have different strength levels, the same holds true where the two primary grades of spring steel are concerned. While both 1095 & 1075 are strong, 1075 is considerably softer than 1095. 1075 will bend more (while still no9t breaking), but is less capable of "springing back". This would be due to their levels of Manganese & Carbon - 0.5-0.7 Manganese & 0.7-0.8 Carbon contents of 1075 vs 0.3-0.5 Manganese & 0.9-1.04 Carbon contents of 1095. Interestingly, XRAY fails to indicate which spring steel they use in their optional spring steel parts.
These might work for your spring steel T4 solution:
XRAY 30mm L/R Spring Steel Turnbuckles XRA302615
XRAY 4.2mm Threaded Ball End Hudy Spring Steel XRA372650
XRAY T4 Titanium Suspension Pivot Pin XRA307217 (not SS)
Arrowmax AM-RX8-337310 Pivot Pin - Tini (Spring steel) (2) [AM-RX8-337310]



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Old 04-16-2019, 03:53 PM
  #437  
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In prepping the carbon parts, I was recalling what someone else did with their shock towers. He did the CA glue, sanding, and polishing the of edges, as did for all the carbon parts, but, for the front & back of the two shock towers, he sanding them with super-fine sandpaper, so as to remove the shine. The flatness of the front/back, contrasting with the polished shine of the edges, gave it a distinct look that really made it "pop". So, in prepping my carbon parts, I've decided to take it one step (ok, a few steps) further, and I just wanted to so what others think.



Now, I haven't yet polished the edges (won't do that until all of the other prep work is finished, on all of the carbon parts), but this should give a decent idea of what it will look like. I purposely left my hand in the photo, so that you can get a better idea of what the carbon parts will look like, once completed. Notice the prominent hand reflection in the 'before' image, and the lack of any noticeable reflection in the 'after' image. Any thoughts?
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Old 04-16-2019, 05:10 PM
  #438  
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Originally Posted by silden

Thatís the same with the carbon fiber piece.
The only difference is that the Turnbuckle allows more side to side flex.
Originally Posted by Panther6834
The thing that gets me...and, what I'm thinking Josh is getting at...is that, while the carbon stiffener has some flex, the turnbuckle stiffener wouldn't have any flex, even though it might add more "side-to-side.
All Iím getting at is that when the motor plate bends it puts a tweak in the chassis. Only way to solve this is to use a pan head screw from bottom of chassis to the front of motor plate. Maybe one screw hole behind the stiffener. But in doing that you are going to reduce chassis flex. Yeah Iím not perfect so I do run over some dots. But I hate when I have to try and get the tweak out after every run.
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Old 04-16-2019, 05:18 PM
  #439  
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I run the nut tight and a couple flat screws in the front and nothing in the rear. As an option, you can leave the nut on the loose side, meaning not tight but enough to hold against the graphite. But I do believe omitting the nut is the reason you're bending those. I run the brass without issue.

Panther, sanding the surface isn't required. Sanding and sealing the edge is meant to prevent de-laminatioln during wrecks. Keeping the surface "flat" is key when mounting your bulkheads and other components.
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Old 04-16-2019, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya
All Iím getting at is that when the motor plate bends it puts a tweak in the chassis. Only way to solve this is to use a pan head screw from bottom of chassis to the front of motor plate. Maybe one screw hole behind the stiffener. But in doing that you are going to reduce chassis flex. Yeah Iím not perfect so I do run over some dots. But I hate when I have to try and get the tweak out after every run.
Think I'm just going to stick with the stock carbon stiffener. While it doesn't provide the side-to-side flex that the turnbuckle-based stiffener allows, it still allows some front-rear flex. The way I see it, the turnbuckle stiffener allows for no flex in the area of the chassis. The brass stiffener is almost the same, except that, in what very minimal flex it allows, the brass, itself, will also bend (even if it's very minor), but, once bent, that's it...it's bent. The carbon stiffener is similar to both, except that, if bent, it springs back to its original shape...well, unless that chassis bent too much, in which case I'll assume that the stiffener, chassis and/or top plate might crack. Think I'll take what's "behind door number 3".
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Old 04-16-2019, 08:36 PM
  #441  
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Originally Posted by trigger
I run the nut tight and a couple flat screws in the front and nothing in the rear. As an option, you can leave the nut on the loose side, meaning not tight but enough to hold against the graphite. But I do believe omitting the nut is the reason you're bending those. I run the brass without issue.

Panther, sanding the surface isn't required. Sanding and sealing the edge is meant to prevent de-laminatioln during wrecks. Keeping the surface "flat" is key when mounting your bulkheads and other components.
Everyone I know runs without the screw/nut combo and only uses back two screws or up one. Car feels great until you get a tweak. Guess I gotta try more options.
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Old 04-16-2019, 09:56 PM
  #442  
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Originally Posted by Panther6834
Now, I haven't yet polished the edges (won't do that until all of the other prep work is finished, on all of the carbon parts), but this should give a decent idea of what it will look like. I purposely left my hand in the photo, so that you can get a better idea of what the carbon parts will look like, once completed. Notice the prominent hand reflection in the 'before' image, and the lack of any noticeable reflection in the 'after' image. Any thoughts?
I think turn marshals will really appreciate the effort as they flip your car back over ........

Originally Posted by Panther6834
Think I'm just going to stick with the stock carbon stiffener. While it doesn't provide the side-to-side flex that the turnbuckle-based stiffener allows, it still allows some front-rear flex. The way I see it, the turnbuckle stiffener allows for no flex in the area of the chassis. The brass stiffener is almost the same, except that, in what very minimal flex it allows, the brass, itself, will also bend (even if it's very minor), but, once bent, that's it...it's bent. The carbon stiffener is similar to both, except that, if bent, it springs back to its original shape...well, unless that chassis bent too much, in which case I'll assume that the stiffener, chassis and/or top plate might crack. Think I'll take what's "behind door number 3".
It's a tuning option - you can run with the carbon, with the turn buckle or without either. I mostly ran the turn buckle or with no link at all. The point is, it's a tuning option you can change based on track conditions - like changing tire compounds, or shock oil or sway bars or ...... You limit those tuning options if you decide you are only going to use one or the other and your decision is only based on some internet conversations.
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Old 04-16-2019, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by belewis01
I think turn marshals will really appreciate the effort as they flip your car back over
If you want to rush building your kit, without a care in the world, you're more than welcome to do just that. Some people, on the other hand, take pride in doing something "different", whether it's checking/double-checking parts to make sure they have everything (and, maybe, a few extras) before they start building, or planning out how they're going to paint the body even before they start building, or having aluminum, Titanium and/or steel parts custom anodized, or taking away the "shininess" of carbon parts and giving them a "flat" look. The great thing about RC is that you have the FREEDOM to do any of these things, and more.
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Old 04-17-2019, 06:22 AM
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Introducing the new options for Xray T4

Rc-Cox Adjustable Battery Holder Set+Shorty Battery Brass Weight Combo



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Old 04-17-2019, 09:28 AM
  #445  
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Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya



All I’m getting at is that when the motor plate bends it puts a tweak in the chassis. Only way to solve this is to use a pan head screw from bottom of chassis to the front of motor plate. Maybe one screw hole behind the stiffener. But in doing that you are going to reduce chassis flex. Yeah I’m not perfect so I do run over some dots. But I hate when I have to try and get the tweak out after every run.
I have bent, one plate. But the 'after every run' part has never happened to us. It's fine and not tweaked, except after the one hard hit that bent it.
We don't run the nut but we still run the button head screw there. You run that right?
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Old 04-17-2019, 09:39 AM
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Would a 2019 chassis be a plug in play on a 2018 car?

Last edited by Justin805; 04-17-2019 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 04-17-2019, 11:06 AM
  #447  
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2019 chassis works just fine on an 18. The only change was 2 holes for the front cutout brace.
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Old 04-17-2019, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by JayL
I have bent, one plate. But the 'after every run' part has never happened to us. It's fine and not tweaked, except after the one hard hit that bent it.
We don't run the nut but we still run the button head screw there. You run that right?
the one attached to the bottom of motor plate to the motor bracket yes and the button attached to the upper cf brace to the motor plate yes.
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Old 04-17-2019, 02:45 PM
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So I have an option of running a t4 15' that I got for $150 will need a new chassis sooner or later or getting a 2018 w/ 2019 chassis for $350. I'm pretty new to on road but don't mind spending the extra money. Will I notice a big difference between the two?
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Old 04-17-2019, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Justin805
So I have an option of running a t4 15' that I got for $150 will need a new chassis sooner or later or getting a 2018 w/ 2019 chassis for $350. I'm pretty new to on road but don't mind spending the extra money. Will I notice a big difference between the two?
I would go with T4'18.
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