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XRAY T4'19 SPEC

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Old 12-14-2018, 05:35 PM
  #241  
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Originally Posted by Skiddins
What springs are you running?
progressive up front and 2.6 out back.

my droop was way off. for some reason I couldn't get it right.
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Old 12-16-2018, 04:36 AM
  #242  
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Hi there guys , does anyone know what's the item number for the plastic servo horns ? And yes I know the alu servo horns are better . I just want something that's a bit more responsive than the Xray servo saver but still got a bit more give than the alu servo horn in case the unexpected happens . Thanks guys
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Old 12-16-2018, 04:51 PM
  #243  
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Originally Posted by Ggrant
Hi there guys , does anyone know what's the item number for the plastic servo horns ? And yes I know the alu servo horns are better . I just want something that's a bit more responsive than the Xray servo saver but still got a bit more give than the alu servo horn in case the unexpected happens . Thanks guys
could use one from an XB4 if you want to stick with Xray parts - 356200

yokomo one for BD9 is also right height. B9-204
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Old 12-17-2018, 03:13 AM
  #244  
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Originally Posted by Ggrant
Hi there guys , does anyone know what's the item number for the plastic servo horns ? And yes I know the alu servo horns are better . I just want something that's a bit more responsive than the Xray servo saver but still got a bit more give than the alu servo horn in case the unexpected happens . Thanks guys
Originally Posted by cplus


could use one from an XB4 if you want to stick with Xray parts - 356200

yokomo one for BD9 is also right height. B9-204
XRA356200 is the correct part number. This plastic option seems to be perfect for carpet racing where the boards can sometimes be unforgiving. Been using this for over a year now with no issues. Max K. tried one at Stock Wars and he said it was definitely more steering in the sweeper compared to the servo saver.
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Old 12-17-2018, 12:42 PM
  #245  
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Originally Posted by R Dodge
XRA356200 is the correct part number. This plastic option seems to be perfect for carpet racing where the boards can sometimes be unforgiving. Been using this for over a year now with no issues. Max K. tried one at Stock Wars and he said it was definitely more steering in the sweeper compared to the servo saver.
thanks mr dodge
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Old 12-18-2018, 12:38 AM
  #246  
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Back from the offroad race... The T4 teardown has started...

- zero binding in suspension
- zero binding in transmission
- full symmetry everywhere it can be symmetric (obviously the motor is still on the left and the battery on the right)
- 9.1mm shock shaft exposed on all 4 ends, now bumped up to 9.3mm now. Balls could swivel nicely in the plastic
- shocks feels perfect, about zero rebound (had rebuilt them during raceday)

will keep progressing slowly as the holiday time is taking its toll on RC
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Old 12-28-2018, 12:15 PM
  #247  
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What's the solution for the motor shaft being pretty much in the side of the battery? I don't have the battery brace that mounts on the layshaft mount yet. is that enough to hold it out? BTW it's a monster motor.
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Old 12-28-2018, 12:38 PM
  #248  
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I always shimmed my motor out 2mm. You can also cut down the shaft on the rotor. The battery stops will help with shifting batteries, but you still need clearance.
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Old 12-31-2018, 04:46 AM
  #249  
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Originally Posted by crisis641
What's the solution for the motor shaft being pretty much in the side of the battery? I don't have the battery brace that mounts on the layshaft mount yet. is that enough to hold it out? BTW it's a monster motor.
Grind the shaft down
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Old 12-31-2018, 05:05 AM
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I also always prefer cutting the shaft of the rotor. I usually make sure to use painters tape or something to cover all the holes so no debris gets inside, and I go slow so the rotor doesn't get hot.

The battery backstop is definitely good to have. You may find that you don't need to grind much if at all once you install the backstop.
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Old 12-31-2018, 08:05 AM
  #251  
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Originally Posted by crisis641
What's the solution for the motor shaft being pretty much in the side of the battery? I don't have the battery brace that mounts on the layshaft mount yet. is that enough to hold it out? BTW it's a monster motor.
I would cut it like the others. It seems they still pass roar inspections
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Old 01-01-2019, 12:30 PM
  #252  
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So with grinding the shaft down has anyone noticed any decrease is rotor strength? I know magnets dont like vibrations.
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Old 01-02-2019, 01:04 PM
  #253  
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Originally Posted by crisis641
So with grinding the shaft down has anyone noticed any decrease is rotor strength? I know magnets dont like vibrations.
None what so ever. I used a dremel disc to grind away the shaft and fine sand paper to finish. The rotor gave identical readings on my rotor gauss meter before and after.
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Old 01-03-2019, 02:21 AM
  #254  
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Originally Posted by trilerian
I always shimmed my motor out 2mm. You can also cut down the shaft on the rotor. The battery stops will help with shifting batteries, but you still need clearance.
Shimming the motors out changes the balance of the cars slightly.
There's a reason they keep trying to move the motors inwards (though I think we've reached that limit)
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Old 01-03-2019, 02:23 AM
  #255  
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Originally Posted by daleburr
Grind the shaft down
Would it still be BRCA legal if you did that? (see the current issue with surpass end plates being modified...)
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