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Old 08-21-2008, 09:33 AM   #1171
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Rob, have you tried different spring cups? I used the AE cups on my losi to fit Xrays springs...

I can also lend you some springs
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Old 08-21-2008, 10:11 AM   #1172
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Thanks Jaune. I'm glad you offered, it saves me from just taking them from you anyway
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Old 08-21-2008, 03:47 PM   #1173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Burns View Post
I guess if I'm going to question your set up I should at least post my carpet foam set up. This has a lot of steering and a bit too much roll. I'll probably go to an AE yellow front spring next time I'm out (just waiting on parts). The AE springs are a bit too long so I can't get my ride height any lower. Sadly TOP springs don't go stiff enough. I'm curious to see if Losi type-R springs will fit as they're a lot shorter.
Can you post your setup again... All I see is a blank sheet.

I have tried diffs in the front before and found that you lose a lot of punch out of corners running 19t or mod.

Has anyone tried to make a "slipper" spool like what AE use? I tried a set of their slipper plates and they fit. goin to give em a try myself this weekend.
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Old 08-21-2008, 04:30 PM   #1174
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Strange, I just downloaded it on another computer to the one I made it on and it shows up fine.

I'll just write what each item is rather than just post a set up that might just
show up blank again.

3.5mm chassis, 2mm spacers behind front and rear arms. That should make 3mm in front of front arms and 2mm in front of rear arms. Rear hubs are also shimmed forward.

Front suspension:
Camber 2 degrees
Caster 6 degrees
Ride height: 5mm
Droop 1.5mm
Front drive: Diff
Sway bar: stock
Toe: 0 degrees
Toe blocks: 0 degrees front and rear
3mm shim under each toe block
Outside hole on shock tower
outside hole on control arm
0mm spacer under camber link on bulkhead (short link length)

Rear suspension:
Camber 2 degrees
Ride height 5mm
Droop 2mm
Toe blocks: 2 degree on rear , 0 degree on front
2nd from outside hole on shock tower
middle hole on control arm
3mm spacer under camber link on bulkhead (long link length but inside hole on rear hub)
.5mm shim under each toe block

Shocks:
Piston: [email protected]
Oil is Xray 30 weight
Front spring is AE purple (30 in/lbs)
Rear spring is AE gold (19.5 in/lbs)

Tyres:
Jaco Prizm lilac front, double pink rear
57mm diameter
Jack the Gripper inside 1/2 front, full rear. (applied 10 minutes before race, wait 5 minutes then wipe off)

Ackerman is in the middle hole.
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Old 08-21-2008, 06:32 PM   #1175
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There is not that much differnce between our setups. I was thinking about starting with 2mm under all toe blocks but I had a full day to test so I started there. Off the bat I was able to do 10.7 which was same as the state titles 1 month before hand. I figured it would be better when the grip picked up so I left it.

You must have pretty good grip to be running 3mm under toe blocks though... What body did you use?
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Old 08-21-2008, 07:04 PM   #1176
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3mm shims under front blocks, and 0.5mm shims under rear blocks?

If that is whats required to make it feel ok, then there is something seriously wrong.

Also remeber that the TOP blocks are already 1mm taller than the cyclone blcks, and i have never seen more than 2.5 on any HB setups. (1.5MM for TOP)
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Old 08-21-2008, 07:40 PM   #1177
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That set up is not exactly where I want it. The car has been traction rolling lately so I tried raising my front roll centre by raising the front arms. I can't lower or shorten the camber links so I went with raising the arms. It's still not right and I'd like to go to a stiffer front spring but the next step in AE is another 5 in/lbs. I'd like to make less of a jump.
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Old 08-21-2008, 08:34 PM   #1178
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I have never run that kind of rollcenter split before but that is how a lot of the old TC's are out of the box and nitro is the same. If you are traction rolling try raising the rear blocks up to the same height as the front. That will raise the chassis rollcenter higher making it less likely to roll and will also improve mid corner - exit steering. I once ran 4mm under all blocks (415) due to the layer of vht. Crazy levels of grip!
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Old 08-21-2008, 10:17 PM   #1179
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I would say your traction rolling due to too much initial, the front is just too stiff in roll centre, and spring. The car has zero roll, and instead of transferring weight and washing off some grip, it forces the outside tire into the track surface, makes the edge of the foam bite and over you go.
I would also look at messing with the actual tire compounds, we generally run a Front compound tire, instead of rears all around, which have much less side bite, but still have the forward bite.

Drop the block, drop the spring, and try going harder oil.
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Old 08-22-2008, 10:05 AM   #1180
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I agree with the traction roll being caused by too much initial steering.I'm already running 6 degree caster blocks to reduce my initial steering.

The car has a lot of steering which tells me I'm transferring too much weight to the front of the car. I can't see why running a softer spring in the front would fix that, if anything it will make it worse.

What I was thinking of doing was going back to the 2mm under the front arms, increasing shock oil thickness in the front and lengthening the wheel base a bit. Then go from there. I'll also look into the Losi springs fitting.
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Old 08-23-2008, 11:01 PM   #1181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Burns View Post
I agree with the traction roll being caused by too much initial steering.I'm already running 6 degree caster blocks to reduce my initial steering.

The car has a lot of steering which tells me I'm transferring too much weight to the front of the car. I can't see why running a softer spring in the front would fix that, if anything it will make it worse.

What I was thinking of doing was going back to the 2mm under the front arms, increasing shock oil thickness in the front and lengthening the wheel base a bit. Then go from there. I'll also look into the Losi springs fitting.
Try my suggestion... A fast car is a balanced car.. running such a massive split in rollcenters is covering up one problem with another...
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Old 08-24-2008, 05:03 AM   #1182
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Hi all, i have been working on the rear ball diff on this car and is keep loosen up everytime and i was thinking is there a better ball diff in the market can fit in it? I also looking at the gear diff that some brand have come up with and is anybody can tell me is that fit in this car? I'm looking to change the ball diff at least the alluminum ones so any suggestion is greatly appreciated.
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Old 08-24-2008, 05:14 AM   #1183
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I upgraded to the TOP ally diffs on my mod car with ceramic balls and havent had any hassles with it over the year so far.
Only changes i made was that teh diff plates wore out fast and i modded some MIP plates to fit and havent been doing rebuilds as often as before. I also am using Tamiya diff screws and 1 piece thrust bearing.
I can run 2/3 club events and teh diffs are still smooth.
I have been waiting for Serpent gear diffs for most part of this year but seeing no one has stock and the local agent cant get themselves i am happy with the diffs in the car.
If anything though i dont like the idea of the thinner 2mm diff screws.
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Old 08-24-2008, 11:05 AM   #1184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor View Post
I upgraded to the TOP ally diffs on my mod car with ceramic balls and havent had any hassles with it over the year so far.
Only changes i made was that teh diff plates wore out fast and i modded some MIP plates to fit and havent been doing rebuilds as often as before. I also am using Tamiya diff screws and 1 piece thrust bearing.
I can run 2/3 club events and teh diffs are still smooth.
I have been waiting for Serpent gear diffs for most part of this year but seeing no one has stock and the local agent cant get themselves i am happy with the diffs in the car.
If anything though i dont like the idea of the thinner 2mm diff screws.
You would'nt have the part number for that one piece thrust bearing handy? I've been trying to get parts for this car for months now with no luck.
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Old 08-24-2008, 11:48 AM   #1185
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9949300 620 thrust bearing
9804374 2mm diff screw
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