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Old 03-22-2010, 02:23 AM   #1786
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std Scythe is a 2.2 transmission ratio with a 33t/15t combo
The option pulley set has a 17t center pulley which makes for a 1.94 transmission ratio.
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Old 03-22-2010, 04:33 AM   #1787
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Need information on the Scythe's available internal ratio options... The TOP Racing website has been reworked and the parts section is no longer available. I wanna know the pulley size and internal ratio that is available for the Scythe.

Standard diff pulley : 33t
Standard centre pulley : 15t
Standard internal ratio : 2.2

What other options are available?
It would also be best if other compatible brands are mentioned as well to increase the options of getting spares. If im not mistaken Yokomo or Tamiya pulleys can be fitted in too right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor View Post
std Scythe is a 2.2 transmission ratio with a 33t/15t combo
The option pulley set has a 17t center pulley which makes for a 1.94 transmission ratio.
Yes I came to know about that optional 1.94 ratio... Is there anything else? What about the option to pair up the pulley with another one from a different brand? For instance running a Photon or Yokomo pulley for a lower internal ratio perhaps...

But 1.94 sounds pretty good to me, IF i can only find one here...Will have to check it up locally...
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Old 03-23-2010, 02:05 AM   #1788
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There was also a 2.18 (i think) ratio option, with 37 tooth diff pulleys, which you could use the Tamiya style pulleys and also 3mm diff balls which made for a smoother diff.

1.94 is what i used to use in 17.5, and it seemed much better.


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Old 03-23-2010, 02:16 AM   #1789
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the 1.94 definately feels better and helps with getting long roll outs if needed.
It also made my mod more reliable with less belt wear.
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Old 04-04-2010, 08:22 AM   #1790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xray racer View Post
There was also a 2.18 (i think) ratio option, with 37 tooth diff pulleys, which you could use the Tamiya style pulleys and also 3mm diff balls which made for a smoother diff.

1.94 is what i used to use in 17.5, and it seemed much better.


Cheers

Robbie
Yea i noticed this just now at one of my LHS and they have this pulley set labelled Pulley Set MOD with 37t pulley and 17t center pulley which would bring it to 2.18...

Im confused now i thought there's only the normal 33t pulley with 15t center pulley and 33t pulley with 17t center pulley...

How come there's this 37t pulley with 17t center pulley combo?
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Old 08-08-2010, 01:32 AM   #1791
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Hi guys I drive the Photon but after being so impressed with Top Racing I have picked up a cheap second hand scythe as a second car.

I know it probably will need a new chassis plate and will replace the cvs and dogbones but is there anything else I should get/replace.

Also we have a couple of scythe racers at our club and they recommend using the one piece top deck instead of the split one.

Think it has alluminium bulkheads and deck covers.
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Old 08-08-2010, 03:05 AM   #1792
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In my humble opinion the Scythe is at it's best with the standard chassis, standard full-length top deck, and plastic bulkheads.

The front/rear aluminium bulkheads are OK, but I would never, ever use the aluminium centre bulkhead. It makes the car far too stiff, that is why people started running split decks, and that is where all the problems with the car's handling would start to show up. A stiff Scythe loses it's fluency and grip in the corners.

I wouldn't spend any money on a chassis or driveshafts unless you absolutely have to. My Scythe still comes with me as a spare car, I ran it fairly regularly indoors and out for a couple of years, and haven't needed to replace a single part except for a few diff internals!

The Scythe will balance quite nicely with a LiPo if you just run it so it hangs over the edge of the chassis. LiPo's don't fit under the centre bulkhead but it doesn't matter because the car wouldn't balance if you put one there anyway!

The only optional parts from the later Scythes that are nicer than the originals are the aluminium rear diff parts, much better than the Yokomo ones.
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Old 08-08-2010, 06:46 AM   #1793
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Great thanks for the info that's just what I needed to know.
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Old 08-08-2010, 07:33 AM   #1794
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The chassis and drive shafts are pretty gone so will deff need to replace them. Interesting about the plastic parts working better than the alley ones too.
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Old 08-09-2010, 06:21 AM   #1795
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Could someone please tell mr the main difference between the standard red scythe and the ARP as the look very similar. Is the arp just a scythe update ?
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Old 08-09-2010, 07:35 AM   #1796
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Lots and lots of updated parts, but the fundamental design is the same.
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Old 08-11-2010, 04:47 PM   #1797
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I have set mine up as to the kit set up sheet but using HPI silver front and blue rear. It seems very loose on entry even with the rear sway bar removed and the one peice top deck. What next to add rear end grip ?
I have heard bad stories about the split top deck so am reluctant to try that. So odd have rear grip issues from driving the photon.
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Old 08-12-2010, 12:00 AM   #1798
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post your setup !
i run well with my 4 Scythes and dont see a need to buy a new chassis.
Consistantly in in the amains in stock classes.
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Old 08-12-2010, 12:26 AM   #1799
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I'm with you. I'll run my Scythe as long as I can keep getting parts for it.
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Old 08-13-2010, 05:18 PM   #1800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darrenoakley View Post
I have set mine up as to the kit set up sheet but using HPI silver front and blue rear. It seems very loose on entry even with the rear sway bar removed and the one peice top deck. What next to add rear end grip ?
I have heard bad stories about the split top deck so am reluctant to try that. So odd have rear grip issues from driving the photon.
Would definitely be interesting to see your full setup - there are a few "kit" setups floating around, and there are lots of different parts the car can be built with.

That being said, the Scythe is known to have a LOT of steering and occasionally a rather flighty rear end... if you can tame the beast, that is where the laptimes come from

A few observations...

I think it is worth trying the kit Scythe springs - the 4.75 coil front and 5.5 coil rear work pretty well on most rubber.

A few adjustments that I found to work quite well to tame the car... reduce the steering dual-rate (but not so much that the car can't full circle in the track)... slightly raise front roll centre with a shim under the suspension blocks... heavier front damper fluid... if you have to run ballast, run it nearer the rear of the car... a smooth rear diff is a big help.

Also check that everything around the suspension is moving freely. There are quite a few parts that can be a bit tight and need careful fettling.
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