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T.O.P. Racing "Scythe" 1/10 EP Touring Car

T.O.P. Racing "Scythe" 1/10 EP Touring Car

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Old 02-26-2009, 02:23 PM
  #1696  
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Originally Posted by mikky32 View Post
i want to see some more pictures. does anny one now when they show the car?
I am pretty sure Josh can post some pictures. But the question is this, what NDA is he under to keep the car Top Secret? I know there was a photographer for the race at The Track, and I think he got a nice picture of the car as well.

All in all, if you have seen the Robitronic AVID, then you get an idea of what the Scythe looks like. Furthermore, add the Xray Foam top deck onto the car, and you will see what I saw.

If someone is skilled at Photoshop, try this combo out and post it. I think I can verify if it is accurate or not.

And yes, there was a lot of red on that car. Avid and Kysoho Stallion red too!
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Old 02-26-2009, 03:02 PM
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I've seen the car first hand, and it's no where like the Avid (I had one btw), other than the color red. It's also very different from the Xray. It's got a pretty cool design, and is a bit similar to a certain car, but I'll let the TOP guys show you when they're ready.

Originally Posted by HarryN View Post
I am pretty sure Josh can post some pictures. But the question is this, what NDA is he under to keep the car Top Secret? I know there was a photographer for the race at The Track, and I think he got a nice picture of the car as well.

All in all, if you have seen the Robitronic AVID, then you get an idea of what the Scythe looks like. Furthermore, add the Xray Foam top deck onto the car, and you will see what I saw.

If someone is skilled at Photoshop, try this combo out and post it. I think I can verify if it is accurate or not.

And yes, there was a lot of red on that car. Avid and Kysoho Stallion red too!
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Old 02-26-2009, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by stonedgti View Post
I've seen the car first hand, and it's no where like the Avid (I had one btw), other than the color red. It's also very different from the Xray. It's got a pretty cool design, and is a bit similar to a certain car, but I'll let the TOP guys show you when they're ready.
I think he is saying that cause he is trying to sell an avid!!
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Old 03-03-2009, 01:37 PM
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hello

Top racing tires N20 L20 and C20
http://www.top-racing.jp/showProduct...&ProductID=165

Anybody know these tires?
what the strengths and weaknesses of it?
wish is the characteristics of this tires and the best inserts for it ?

Thanks in advance
Best regards:
Pedro Silva
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Old 03-09-2009, 03:29 AM
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Hey

I'm having a few problems with my Scythe Diffs, i cant seem to build them without excessive slip.

They are fine for stock, and 10.5 on flowing tracks, but in tighter corners, and especially running Mod, i just seem find the diff slips everywhere.

I cant find anything abnormal or 'wrong' about the diffs... but yet another racers diff has almost no slip compared to mine?... i'm not sure what the problem could be.

I know a lot of guys are changing the pulleys to Tamiya etc, but considering the exact same diff as mine in another car doesnt slip... i'd like to find the problem first.

Any ideas?

And while i'm at it... i dont suppose anyone from TOP has any further info on the Photon...

Cheers

Robbie
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Old 03-09-2009, 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by xray racer View Post
Hey

I'm having a few problems with my Scythe Diffs, i cant seem to build them without excessive slip.

They are fine for stock, and 10.5 on flowing tracks, but in tighter corners, and especially running Mod, i just seem find the diff slips everywhere.

I cant find anything abnormal or 'wrong' about the diffs... but yet another racers diff has almost no slip compared to mine?... i'm not sure what the problem could be.

I know a lot of guys are changing the pulleys to Tamiya etc, but considering the exact same diff as mine in another car doesnt slip... i'd like to find the problem first.

Any ideas?

And while i'm at it... i dont suppose anyone from TOP has any further info on the Photon...

Cheers

Robbie
i hath the same problem.
i use now only a very litle bit of diff lube on it.
i use ceramic diff balls. in the beginning you must tighten your diff several times.
I drive 10,5 6 cell and didnīt hath any problems with it.
I use the ea diff lube for it. it works great.
And no Tamiya parts on my car. Only TOP and hotbodies (HPI) and some times Xray castor blocks.
The car is better without anny Tamiya stuff on it

I hope the photo's from the new TOP will come soon.
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Old 03-09-2009, 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by xray racer View Post
Hey

I'm having a few problems with my Scythe Diffs, i cant seem to build them without excessive slip.

They are fine for stock, and 10.5 on flowing tracks, but in tighter corners, and especially running Mod, i just seem find the diff slips everywhere.

I cant find anything abnormal or 'wrong' about the diffs... but yet another racers diff has almost no slip compared to mine?... i'm not sure what the problem could be.

I know a lot of guys are changing the pulleys to Tamiya etc, but considering the exact same diff as mine in another car doesnt slip... i'd like to find the problem first.

Any ideas?

And while i'm at it... i dont suppose anyone from TOP has any further info on the Photon...

Cheers

Robbie
Can you let us know what parts you are using to build the diffs?

I agree basically with what mikky32 said - try and use only a smear of silicone lube on the main balls. Too much silicone grease packs out the diff gear and stops the plates tightening down fully.

I have no problems with mine and I am using all original parts, including the wonky Yokomo outdrives! Diff stickers make a HUGE difference to the time between rebuilds.
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Old 03-09-2009, 09:08 AM
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Hey EJ,

Thanks for the front universal shafts on Saturday. I have some questions regarding some Scythe pulley parts and belts. Check your PM.

I will be placing an order with OD today.

Thanks.
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Old 03-09-2009, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by decibels View Post
I think he is saying that cause he is trying to sell an avid!!
Shhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It did look like an AVID. Josh and I joked about it as well! And yes, it was because of all the red.
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Old 03-10-2009, 03:19 AM
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I'm having a few problems with my Scythe Diffs, i cant seem to build them without excessive slip.
Robbie,
If the diffs are still the same as when I used to race TOPs, the centre ring in the drive pulley was too wide and needed to be sanded thinner so the diff could be tightened properly.

Pete
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Old 03-10-2009, 04:59 AM
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Pete,

I've tried doing that... but it didnt seem to make a big difference... it just got rid of some of the 'lumpiness' of the diff.

Unless i just need to sand it smaller again???... its already less than the thickness of the pulley center.

Sosidge, i've built the diffs with both ceramic and steel diff balls and thrust bearings and neither seems to be better than the other... except the steel balls seem to last longer between rebuilds. I am using the Tamiya thrust bearing and the Alloy diff halfs.

I also use very little diff lube... basically a smear across each diff plate.

Also, it seems as though the diff spring coils are collapsed before the diff is rid of all the slip. However i've also tried 3 new diff springs... they seem to be the same?

Unless it is that i just need to sand the center bearing carrier thinner, but it seems at the moment that the diff halves will bottom out against each other before the center locks... if that makes sense.

Cheers

Robbie
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Old 03-10-2009, 05:23 AM
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try adding a washer to teh screw side, might be that you bottoming out teh screw so its not tightening up or teh screw is getting stretched seeing they very thin.
I use Tamiya diff screws and thrust with the rest all stock scythe parts and works perfectly in my mod car on the front and rear.
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Old 03-10-2009, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by xray racer View Post
Pete,

I've tried doing that... but it didnt seem to make a big difference... it just got rid of some of the 'lumpiness' of the diff.

Unless i just need to sand it smaller again???... its already less than the thickness of the pulley center.

Sosidge, i've built the diffs with both ceramic and steel diff balls and thrust bearings and neither seems to be better than the other... except the steel balls seem to last longer between rebuilds. I am using the Tamiya thrust bearing and the Alloy diff halfs.

I also use very little diff lube... basically a smear across each diff plate.

Also, it seems as though the diff spring coils are collapsed before the diff is rid of all the slip. However i've also tried 3 new diff springs... they seem to be the same?

Unless it is that i just need to sand the center bearing carrier thinner, but it seems at the moment that the diff halves will bottom out against each other before the center locks... if that makes sense.

Cheers

Robbie
The bearing spacer is a good point, I'd forgotten about that part, yes it does need modding. Sand it down until it is the same thickness as the diff gear itself. Sounds like that is what you have already done. Don't worry about the diff halves bottoming out, the balls will keep them apart.

Spring crushing flat before the diff is tight is a strange one though - since you have replaced it already I have no explanation for why that would happen.

You're using the right parts with the alloy diff halves though - Tamiya's one-piece thrust is much better than the caged TOP thrust.

The only thing I can think of is that one part has got distorted but it is not something you can see with the naked eye. Complete part-by-part replacement may be the only way to get a cure. The alloy outdrives do build a good diff, I have built them and seen them first-hand.
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Old 03-11-2009, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
The bearing spacer is a good point, I'd forgotten about that part, yes it does need modding. Sand it down until it is the same thickness as the diff gear itself. Sounds like that is what you have already done. Don't worry about the diff halves bottoming out, the balls will keep them apart.

Spring crushing flat before the diff is tight is a strange one though - since you have replaced it already I have no explanation for why that would happen.

You're using the right parts with the alloy diff halves though - Tamiya's one-piece thrust is much better than the caged TOP thrust.

The only thing I can think of is that one part has got distorted but it is not something you can see with the naked eye. Complete part-by-part replacement may be the only way to get a cure. The alloy outdrives do build a good diff, I have built them and seen them first-hand.

Yeh it certainly is bizarre. I have had the diff for quite some time now, of course i've gone through rings and balls, but still the original diff halves. I've even recently built the diff several times once after the other- changing different parts in and out such as the pulley, center bearing carrier and all the internals... and nothing seems to change...

Perhaps i got a dodgy batch of diff springs???...

But between the three i have sitting here, there is almost no difference in height between them.

Cheers

Robbie
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Old 03-11-2009, 06:32 AM
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witch site of the diff plates do you use?
the shine site or the litle bit dorker site?
Te darker site has a bit less grip and your diff balls wil slip a bit more.
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