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Old 12-15-2008, 03:55 PM
  #1546  
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I got to see the car on the weekend and I imagine it would switch easily enough to a rubber car.
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Old 12-15-2008, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh Cyrul
I would like to run all the races to support the series so I will definatly try to be there. Just depends on scheduling and how much work I have to get done back here...
Cool, hope you can make it I'd like to check out the new car, you know we're all addicited to new stuff.
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Old 12-15-2008, 04:08 PM
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Does anyone know where I can get the Hybrid Front Spool for this car? I think the part number that I saw for it was PO-SDT113RD.

Also, could one of you guys that's running this spool please measure it for me? I need to know how far it is from bearing to bearing on the inside in mm. Trying to see if it will work on my Kyosho car.

Thanks,
Canyon
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Old 12-15-2008, 04:35 PM
  #1549  
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Originally Posted by Josh Cyrul
mikky - Not yet....lol....

Keith - Thanks and yes, this one will make it to full production. I believe everything is in full production now with already some parts/pieces coming in and are ready, others were checked and then sent out for anodizing as they will be ready next week. From the e-mails I've recieved, the minor updates that we worked on after this first car that I've been running are coming along great and things are progressing to the finished product... Speaking of which, I have to get back to these instructions!!

Here's a little update from this past weekend Fastcat's Holiday Challenge: 2nd leg of the Northeast Grand Slam Series:

I arrived on Friday to get set-up and run some practice with my TC, 1/12 and try to finish building my WGT car. The Photon was decient from the start and I only did some tire testing to try and find which tires I entended to use all weekend (Jaco Pinks). The lap times were ok, and I knew the track would change a lot so I decided to work more with my 1/12 (it wasn't all that great) and finish building the WGT.

Satruday I practiced a little more and thought that I was on pace. The first qualifier showed though that Kevin Hebert definatly had a great set-up on his car now and he was definatly going to be tought to beat. I still managed 2nd but was quite off the pace. I worked a lot on the set-up the next few runs and while I was able to close the gap to 3 seconds, it was still no where near where I wanted to be and the car was actually generating too much traction which caused it to lift both front and rear tires depending on the corner (on/off throttle). Needless to say, a bunch of thrash practicing after qualifying and I was able to greatly improve the set-up with changes to the front shock position on the front a-arm, front spring, front and rear camber links, ackerman and I think some others as I was just changing a lot super fast...lol.. In the end, it was much more consistant with better lap times but still was missing just a little more. I left it for Sunday to see how it would fair in the final round of qualifying.

Sunday I was on pace that would have been very close if not beat Kevin's TQ by .5-1 second but a crash with a minute to go ended my chances for 3 TQ's. The car still needed a little more so I changed the front width and rear diff tension for the final. In the final the car wasn't faster but just that little bit better that I needed. I was able to put good pressure on Kevin and a small bobble put me up front. From there, I just protected myself for a few laps and then stretched out a few car lenght lead when he made a mistake that left me in the clear to take a clean sweep of all 3 classes.

The car was quite good in the end and it was a great confidence builder to beat one of the top TC racers on foam tires right now. Kevin has had great runs in the 10.5 class the last year and has been runner up at the last few mod races so I know that the car is definatly on pace. Scary to think though that I still don't have all the details ironed out and I feel the car still has so much more to offer!! Let alone the minor adjustments for production that I know will make the car even better... I am very confident now, that we have a top (no pun intended) contender and have the potential to raise the bar in the TC market.
Great Job Josh!
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Old 12-15-2008, 04:35 PM
  #1550  
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Originally Posted by spdtch
Does anyone know where I can get the Hybrid Front Spool for this car? I think the part number that I saw for it was PO-SDT113RD.

Also, could one of you guys that's running this spool please measure it for me? I need to know how far it is from bearing to bearing on the inside in mm. Trying to see if it will work on my Kyosho car.

Thanks,
Canyon
Canyon, I'll measure the spool tonight and get back to you.
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Old 12-15-2008, 04:43 PM
  #1551  
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Originally Posted by E.J. Evans
Canyon, I'll measure the spool tonight and get back to you.
Thank you SO much!
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Old 12-15-2008, 04:59 PM
  #1552  
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hey all

Just picked up a used scythe.

I will be running 10.5 BL rubber on ashphalt.

Couple of questions I hope you can help with:

1. It needs a new spool .. is it a yokomo BD item .. what will fit?
2. It has both the std and the lower ratio drive train set .. what is the theory and merits of each one.
3. It looks like a hardcase lipo will not fit under the centre bulkhead which is shaped for cells .. whats the solution ... and dont say use cells!!

Any other tips gratefully recvd .. thanks guys.
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:38 AM
  #1553  
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Originally Posted by getpip
hey all

Just picked up a used scythe.

I will be running 10.5 BL rubber on ashphalt.

Couple of questions I hope you can help with:

1. It needs a new spool .. is it a yokomo BD item .. what will fit?
2. It has both the std and the lower ratio drive train set .. what is the theory and merits of each one.
3. It looks like a hardcase lipo will not fit under the centre bulkhead which is shaped for cells .. whats the solution ... and dont say use cells!!

Any other tips gratefully recvd .. thanks guys.
Just get a lipo tray me and my brother run them and it also keeps some weight on that side down low and gives you plenty of room to keep weight low everywhere else which gives you room to consider weight balance left to right and front to back. i recommend that for a spool you use the standard diff and get some tc5r slipper spool pads (sorry forgotten part number) and build like a normal diff just replace diff plates with pads. build with the balls lets it slip without loosening because it has a normal diff action. Just tighten so it has a little give for accidents and you will have a spool that lasts for ages!! i havn't even broken a blade nor has my brother in modified lipo 3.5!!
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Old 12-16-2008, 01:11 AM
  #1554  
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Originally Posted by getpip
hey all

Just picked up a used scythe.

I will be running 10.5 BL rubber on ashphalt.

Couple of questions I hope you can help with:

1. It needs a new spool .. is it a yokomo BD item .. what will fit?
2. It has both the std and the lower ratio drive train set .. what is the theory and merits of each one.
3. It looks like a hardcase lipo will not fit under the centre bulkhead which is shaped for cells .. whats the solution ... and dont say use cells!!

Any other tips gratefully recvd .. thanks guys.
1. TOP have a variety of spools for the car. I am using their all-steel version.
2. Bigger pulleys give a smoother drivetrain with less belt skip. Only issue is that the different internal ratio might make it harder to gear some motors.
3. Never run a LiPo in it so can't comment.
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Old 12-16-2008, 01:41 AM
  #1555  
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Originally Posted by sosidge
Sounds like a fundamental lack of grip! Are the tyres right for the conditions?

The TOP has always had a lot of steering, I often have a problem with the tail stepping out when the grip is low, although I have never had a problem with on-power understeer at the same time.

The only thing that looks slightly unusual there is the camber link spacing and roll centrre shims, it all seems a mm or so below what I would run. I run 2mm spacers on the bulkeads and 2mm under the front blocks, 1mm under the rear.

I often find that if a car is erratic on low grip that a setup that limits roll (higher roll centre and/or stiffer springs, possibly a bar) helps as it stops the car moving around so much and keeps it more responsive. I find that super-soft settings on low grip make the car ponderous and harder to be consistent with.
Thanks for the Info Sosidge.

Thats something i'm still coming to grips with after all this time with the scythe, is that in some circumstances the opposite to what you think actually works, well... to what I think anyway lol.

I'll be sure to try what you've suggested over the coming week or so.

What you've said about the car being ponderous and less consistent sounds alot like what is happening.

Another thought to the equation is my shock oil, perhaps it was too light???... i'm running xray 30wt.

Have you experimented with the front toe blocks also???... from what i recall reducing the stagger reduces the amount of initial bite... is that correct?... so, changing from the front 2.5 deg to a 2.0, or 1.5, would result in a less aggressive car???

Cheers

Robbie
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Old 12-16-2008, 02:14 AM
  #1556  
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Originally Posted by xray racer
Thanks for the Info Sosidge.

Thats something i'm still coming to grips with after all this time with the scythe, is that in some circumstances the opposite to what you think actually works, well... to what I think anyway lol.

I'll be sure to try what you've suggested over the coming week or so.

What you've said about the car being ponderous and less consistent sounds alot like what is happening.

Another thought to the equation is my shock oil, perhaps it was too light???... i'm running xray 30wt.

Have you experimented with the front toe blocks also???... from what i recall reducing the stagger reduces the amount of initial bite... is that correct?... so, changing from the front 2.5 deg to a 2.0, or 1.5, would result in a less aggressive car???

Cheers

Robbie
I run the Much-More oils, typically #500 in the front and #450 in the rear with the Rayspeed "big hole" pistons. I found that the big hole pistons make the car a bit more settled and generate a shade more grip.

Front toe-blocks should make the steering less sharp as you decrease the sweep angle. I have the 1.5 on mine, the boxed ARP kits are shipping with 0.
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Old 12-16-2008, 02:41 AM
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Originally Posted by sosidge
I run the Much-More oils, typically #500 in the front and #450 in the rear with the Rayspeed "big hole" pistons. I found that the big hole pistons make the car a bit more settled and generate a shade more grip.

Front toe-blocks should make the steering less sharp as you decrease the sweep angle. I have the 1.5 on mine, the boxed ARP kits are shipping with 0.
Ohk thanks again for the info, might have to up my shock oil rates a bit too.

Interesting to see the change to the ARP kits.
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:55 PM
  #1558  
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hello

I have three questions:
which is the best No Mark tires for asphalt track low/med grip ??
And for Carpet track??
And the No Mark tires are better for CS tires and RP or not??

thanks in advance.

Best Regards.
Pedro Silva
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Old 12-16-2008, 01:41 PM
  #1559  
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Originally Posted by spdtch
Thank you SO much!
Canyon, the distance between the inner sides of the bearings are 21.5mm.
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Old 12-16-2008, 01:49 PM
  #1560  
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Originally Posted by getpip
hey all

Just picked up a used scythe.

I will be running 10.5 BL rubber on ashphalt.

Couple of questions I hope you can help with:

1. It needs a new spool .. is it a yokomo BD item .. what will fit?
2. It has both the std and the lower ratio drive train set .. what is the theory and merits of each one.
3. It looks like a hardcase lipo will not fit under the centre bulkhead which is shaped for cells .. whats the solution ... and dont say use cells!!

Any other tips gratefully recvd .. thanks guys.
Hey getpip, congrats on your purchase.

1. I believe the BD spool will fit. But we have a new spool for the Scythe/ARP that works great. You might be interested in this.

2. I use the 37/17 pulley set and run our white pulley in the rear. It uses 3mm diff balls spread further apart from center. It's smoother and last much longer.

3. I run a SMC lipo and it rests up against the two button head screws of the center bulkhead. It works fine, I ran it this way at the Reedy and so did Kevin Jelich who won open modified.

you can contact TOP Racing USA at [email protected]

EJ
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