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Old 02-14-2006, 09:04 PM   #1
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Unhappy CE DYNO Huge problems

My hubby is having some issues with his Dyno CE, Let me know if any of you guys will understand his translation of issues.

He has several motors and brushes, none of them will get to an acceptable wattage or torque, he usually tests in Amps Stock motor, but he was told to try testing them in Torque. How can I explain to him some possible steps to improve his motor's torque.

Thanks
Debbi
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Old 02-14-2006, 09:08 PM   #2
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he's doing somthing fundementaly wrong or the dyno may be malfunctioning, worst case senerio send it in to CE they have some of the best service in the industry
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Old 02-14-2006, 09:14 PM   #3
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I have spoken to Jim several times and his Dyno is fine I think it may not be FUNDA....... Mental???? I do not know what to do he is driving me nutts. What do you know about testing on the Dyno?

Thanks
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Old 02-14-2006, 09:18 PM   #4
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From what I understand, your husband is trying to tune his motor to have more torque? If so, tell him to try a purple spring on the positive side, and a red spring on the negative, or purple on both sides. Also, a good brush such as the 767, 4499, or f.
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Old 02-14-2006, 10:10 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by debbi
I have spoken to Jim several times and his Dyno is fine I think it may not be FUNDA....... Mental???? I do not know what to do he is driving me nutts. What do you know about testing on the Dyno?

Thanks
why dont you have your husband come on here and ask questions, I hope this is not "Ken "aka (Kenchoco,serpentfreak,rbchoco,hellokitty)again with another identity
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Old 02-15-2006, 05:27 AM   #6
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First we need to know what kind of motor he is working with and what numbers he is getting from those motors. Otherwise it may be a case of trying to achieve something that the motor won't do.

With the CE dyno, if you are having troubles with the torque readings jumping around the first thing to do is rebuild the slave motor. Before testing a motor make sure the torque sensor is reset and reading 0.0 or -0.0. This ensures that there is nothing putting a load on the sensor prior to a test.

The motors also need to be broken in before testing otherwise you will get numbers with high rpm and low torque.

Hope this helps.

Greg
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Old 02-15-2006, 05:28 AM   #7
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Dude no clue waht you are talking about. Although it is not him KEN AKA blablablabla..... It is G...U..Y..S similar to yourself that my hubby does not ask questions, and the other is you do not speak his language friend.....

So back to the other response he has all the right brushes and springs on there. He said his brushes are not curving right if that makes sense to you?

Debbi
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Old 02-15-2006, 05:32 AM   #8
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So he did rebuild the slave, he has the new charger from CE and he breaks in the motor with that. He says he can never get a higher number than 8.1, He says he is looking for 10 or closer to...

He has a stock motor
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Old 02-15-2006, 05:40 AM   #9
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The torque number from CE dyno is not really the actual torque of the drive motor. It's the amount of load the slave motor puts on the drive motor [action-reaction in physics] but long story short, I think the slave motor need rebuild first. If the torque number is not high enough, this means the slave motor cannot put enough load on the drive motor.
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Old 02-15-2006, 05:46 AM   #10
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The 8.1 amp draw while breaking the motor in is normal but is not an indication of how strong the motor will be. He needs to watch that number while breaking in the motor until it settles down and does not change by more than .2 amps. This indicates that the brushes are seated.

If the curvature of the brush is not equal then the brush hoods are not aligned. In order to align them you will need to file down a pair of brushes until the face is flat. Put the brushes in the motor and run it for about ten seconds. Remove the brushes and see where the line is on the face of the brush. It should be dead center, if not then you will need to adjust the hoods a little at a time until the brushes are centered on the comm.

It would still be better to post some results and exactly what stock motor he is tuning. If it's a P2K, torque is there it just needs tuning, if its a roar stock forget it, they don't have it and you can't tune them for it.

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Old 02-15-2006, 05:51 AM   #11
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alot of people did not like him but i think he is a expert on this subject.
from my understanding he has pased away now so you can't ask him directly but there are still several experts on rctec like the ones above if you still can't find a answer

i would also like to send you to a thread on a different forum
if its not ok Shane just delete it
http://www.rccars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=9

quoated from the late Big Jim's web site



March 24, 2002
Competition Electronics TURBODYNO 45 Settings


These are the settings I use. Although these certainly aren't the only ones to use, it does establish a baseline to start with. But I caution you on this. NEVER COMPARE DYNOS! They are all different. Mine may not be the same as yours. But it's not important. As long as you use your dyno and you can improve your motors with it, the number values don't have to compare with anyone else. And they probably won't. Use these settings and numbers as a guide only. Your numbers maybe be better or worse.

VOLTAGE SETTINGS

FOR 6 CELL TESTING ON SPEC (27t, 21t, 19t) MOTORS: 7.0V
FOR 4 CELL TESTING ON SPEC (27t, 21t, 19t) MOTORS: 5.0V


FOR 6 CELL TESTING OF MODIFIED MOTORS 11 TURNS OR MORE: 6.5V
FOR 6 CELL TESTING OF MODIFIED MOTORS 10 TURNS OR LESS: 5.0V
FOR 4 CELL TESTING OF MODIFIED MOTORS, ALL WINDS: 5.0V

In case you are wondering why I test low wind mods on 5.0V even if they're going to be run on 6 cells is because those type of winds spin so hard that it's very destructive to the slave motor on the dyno. With extreme low winds, a 5.0V setting will still tell you all you need to know accurately.

I should mention also that I'm not going to post all the readings from all 6 settings in my examples. You may not need to use all 6 and it will save space and get you the necessary info.

AMP LOADS

ALL SPEC MOTORS (27t, 21t, 19t) 4 OR 6 CELL USE (Except Oval):
15A, 18A, 20A, 22A, 25A, 28A
*Most Important for 6 cell: 20A and 28A

4 CELL OVAL:
15A, 18A, 20A, 22A, 25A, 0.0A
*Most Important for 4 cell: 20A and 25A

MODIFIED MOTORS: 11 TURNS OR MORE: 4 or 6 cell
20A, 25A, 30A, 35A, 40A, 0.0A
*Most Important 30A and 40A

MODIFIED MOTORS 1O TURNS OR LESS: 4 or 6 cell
25A, 35A, 45A, O.O, O.O, O.O
*Most Important: ALL

EXAMPLES:

My Best P2K2 @ 7.0V:
20366rpm 6.8TQ 103W 74EF @20A
17270rpm 10.1TQ 129W 66EF @28A

My Best GM3 @ 7.0V:
23474rpm 6.0TQ 102W 72EF @20A
19550rpm 8.8TQ 128W 65EF @28A

My Best MVP @ 7.0V:
19874rpm 6.9TQ 102W 72EF @20A
16659rpm 10.0TQ 124W 63EF @28A
*Note: MVP Watt numbers can be slightly lower than Epic motors and still run comparably. This is because of the supereior magnets, my best guess.

My Best Chameleon @ 5.0V:
18708rpm 5.5TQ 77W 77EF @20A
16632rpm 8.9TQ 109W 78EF @28A

My Best Street Spec (21t) @ 7.0V
17964rpm 7.8TQ 103W 73EF @20A
16125rpm 10.6TQ 126W 64EF @28A

Excellent 11x3 Ti Modified: RPM Blank, 6.5V
35041rpm 6.6TQ 168W 85EF @30A
31561rpm 9.1TQ 212W 84EF @40A

Excellent 8 turn HVW2, 4 cell Oval: RPM Blank, 5.0V
35762rpm 4.5TQ 119W 79EF @30A
32234rpm 7.7TQ 184W 81EF @45A

REMEMBER, THESE ARE JUST EXAMPLES
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Old 02-15-2006, 06:09 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by debbi
Dude no clue waht you are talking about. Although it is not him KEN AKA blablablabla..... It is G...U..Y..S similar to yourself that my hubby does not ask questions, and the other is you do not speak his language friend.....

So back to the other response he has all the right brushes and springs on there. He said his brushes are not curving right if that makes sense to you?

Debbi
well if you are not Ken , If your brushes are not curving your brush hoods may not be properly allinged
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