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Old 02-25-2006, 02:50 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorhead
i was up all last night tuning these things best i seen so far on my dyno

rpms torq watts ef amps 7.00 v
27850 3.5 73 57 17.9
25714 4.7 90 64 19.9
23715 5.9 103 66 22.0
21895 7.3 119 68 25.0
20218 8.6 129 65 28.1
18924 9.5 133 63 30.1

using green and red with 4499s i think work the best......so far
hope its good on the track ill find out this weekend

here is the best that I got out mine with 767's
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Old 02-25-2006, 11:11 PM   #77
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Well, it's official now, I REALLY LIKE this motor! I'm starting to think it's really everything Trinity said it'd be, for a change. It doesn't quite have the top end rpm of a Monster, but it MORE than makes up for it in raw power & low-rpm torque, & the efficiency seems to be there, too. On our med-small track, I usually gear my Monsters at about 8.00:1 final, so this one I started at 7.5:1 & it felt good, plus it BARELY even got warm at all, through both the practice & first qualifier(& after those 2 runs, the comm looked pristine, like it'd barely even broken its brushes in, though they were already broken in), so later & geared up to about a 7.35:1 & it felt even better, with NO change in temp. or how the comm looked, & I finished the night that way, & even turned 2 personal best runs in a row(& personal best laps for that track layout). And still after 4 runs, the comm looked EXCELLENT, again like it'd hardly been run at all. I get the feeling I've barely even scratched the surface on gearing this thing right, & it's already running that strong. All in all, it was an EXCELLENT first night with it, & I'm looking forward to playing with it a LOT more.....
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Old 02-25-2006, 11:40 PM   #78
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Yep just like they said RPM like a Monster and Torque like a P2K2.
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Old 02-26-2006, 12:55 AM   #79
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I too had gotten a plain CO, just to play with, as my tuner was out at the moment... all i did to it was retrue, check the shim center, and put F's on it with 2 purple springs.

im no motor tuner by far, but it didnt really work well till i had ran it in for 2-5 minute no-load sessions, and in the car for the 2nd run. seemed to wake up more and more as i ran it. my gearing was at 6.65, on the same track as Griz above.... roughly 4 (!) teeth over my regualr Monster gearing. got a little warm, but not bad, plus the comm still looks great!
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Old 02-26-2006, 07:28 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbonium
I too had gotten a plain CO, just to play with, as my tuner was out at the moment... all i did to it was retrue, check the shim center, and put F's on it with 2 purple springs.

im no motor tuner by far, but it didnt really work well till i had ran it in for 2-5 minute no-load sessions, and in the car for the 2nd run. seemed to wake up more and more as i ran it. my gearing was at 6.65, on the same track as Griz above.... roughly 4 (!) teeth over my regualr Monster gearing. got a little warm, but not bad, plus the comm still looks great!
Usually the motor will get better after a few runs , How long did you let the F-brushes break in? I usually give it 500 seconds @2 volts to break in.
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Old 02-26-2006, 09:30 AM   #81
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it was ran in @ 2v for 300 seconds, two times.

after puting it in the car, the first run seemed a little slow... the 2nd was a little better, but the third it really woke up. maybe the Fs want more time on this motor? i didnt really have a chance to try much, as i got to the track late...
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Old 02-26-2006, 10:05 AM   #82
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Just my opinoin...

I dont have a Dyno.. so I have no numbers... all I have is on track feel.

Right now, I'm running a purple/red spring combo with 767's. (of course with all the little tricks before hand) Break in for 4 minutes @ 2v with Tribo drops, no fan. Blow the motor out with cleaner... another drop or two on the comm of tribo.. run the motor for about 30 seconds to oil the bushings up. Then I knock it up to 3 v to see what the no load amp draw is. For me, the motors at this point are normally in the 4-5 amps. Go out and run... once geared to my liking the motor is at about 140 degrees and just plain RIPS. I have found one motor that I like much more then the other... but I plan on buying a few more, so I hope to find a few more "good" ones. This setup, combined with a Tamiya 415 MS netted me the 3rd fastest lap of the A last tuesday... 1 and 2 were by the same guy.

Next thing I would like to play with is spring tensions but I have to pick up a spring dyno... anyone have any recommendations?
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Old 02-26-2006, 03:52 PM   #83
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hi. making an order from teambrood. does the C027 take the Overhead Springs?
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Old 02-26-2006, 05:51 PM   #84
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this week-end i buy two monster 2...when i build it i was really disapointed....when i check it on my turbodyno the reading was not really good......but when i put it on the track...WOW!!! these motors are really good!! they are not motor dyno....but they show there performance on the track where it count!!

Pace
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Old 02-26-2006, 06:32 PM   #85
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Just so everyone knows, the name for this motor is the Monster CO27. Monster 2 was a mistake made by the originator of this thread. He tried to fix the subject of this post but it wouldn't let him.
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Old 02-26-2006, 06:44 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pace72
this week-end i buy two monster 2...when i build it i was really disapointed....when i check it on my turbodyno the reading was not really good......but when i put it on the track...WOW!!! these motors are really good!! they are not motor dyno....but they show there performance on the track where it count!!

Pace
Pace did you use Torque steps for testing on the Turbo dyno? If you did then they dont look very good when compared to others because their amp draw is so much lower under a load. If you compare them to monsters or Roar stocks using amp steps you will see why the C027 runs so good on the track.

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Old 02-26-2006, 09:27 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noobie
hi. making an order from teambrood. does the C027 take the Overhead Springs?
Yes, it does, same as one from Trinity(my Co27 is by TeamBrood, so I'm sure about this)....
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Old 02-28-2006, 08:06 AM   #88
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Here's a tuning update on a few different brush combo's tried and dyno'd on the same CO27 from a few posts above. If you recall, I missed the mark on centering the can during the first magnet zap, since the shimming was completely biased toward the hood end. Therefore I re-zapped the can with the magnets better centered in the zapper, re-shimmed the arm (much better magnetic field center this time) and skimmed the comm, before making the following dyno runs. All the brushes were new, except the F brush combo which were the same brushes used before.

* Putnam green(+), blue(-)

RPM---TORQ---WATT---EF---AMPS
26978---3.0---60---57---15.0
25083---4.4---81---64---17.9
23881---5.3---94---66---20.1
21279---7.2---114---65---25.0
19874---8.4---123---62---28.0
18834--9.1---127---60---30.1

* Reedy 767(+), 766(-)

RPM---TORQ---WATT---EF---AMPS
28045---3.1---65---61---15.0
26293---4.3---83---65---17.9
25056---5.2---96---68---20.0
22052---7.2---117---65---25.0
20575---8.3---127---64---27.9
19471---9.1---131---62---30.1

*F brush (+ & -)

RPM---TORQ---WATT---EF---AMPS
25872---4.0---78---74---15.0
23912---5.5---97---76---17.9
22907---6.3---106---75---20.0
20534---8.1---124---70---25.0
19236---9.2---131---66---27.9
18336---9.9---134---63---30.1

For same day dyno run comparison:

* My #4 Monster with 767(+), 767(-)

RPM---TORQ---WATT---EF---AMPS
29026---2.7---60---56---15.1
26666---4.1---82---65---17.9
24988---5.1---95---67---20.0
22142---7.1---117---66---25.0
20594---8.3---126---64---27.9
19236---8.8---126---59---30.0

* My #1 P2K2 with 767(+), 766(-)

RPM---TORQ---WATT---EF---AMPS
23564---4.6---80---76---14.9
22094---5.7---94---74---17.9
21328---6.6---104---73---20.0
19345---8.4---121---69---25.0
18416---9.4---128---65---27.9
17375---10.2---131---61---30.1

I'm going to try the CO27 with two 767's, two Putnam greens and two XXX's tonight. Stay tuned!
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Old 02-28-2006, 09:37 AM   #89
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That is awesome information, thanks! Keep up the good work!
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Old 02-28-2006, 10:18 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamgp
Here's a tuning update on a few different brush combo's tried and dyno'd on the same CO27 from a few posts above. If you recall, I missed the mark on centering the can during the first magnet zap, since the shimming was completely biased toward the hood end. Therefore I re-zapped the can with the magnets better centered in the zapper, re-shimmed the arm (much better magnetic field center this time) and skimmed the comm, before making the following dyno runs. All the brushes were new, except the F brush combo which were the same brushes used before.

* Putnam green(+), blue(-)

RPM---TORQ---WATT---EF---AMPS
26978---3.0---60---57---15.0
25083---4.4---81---64---17.9
23881---5.3---94---66---20.1
21279---7.2---114---65---25.0
19874---8.4---123---62---28.0
18834--9.1---127---60---30.1

* Reedy 767(+), 766(-)

RPM---TORQ---WATT---EF---AMPS
28045---3.1---65---61---15.0
26293---4.3---83---65---17.9
25056---5.2---96---68---20.0
22052---7.2---117---65---25.0
20575---8.3---127---64---27.9
19471---9.1---131---62---30.1

*F brush (+ & -)

RPM---TORQ---WATT---EF---AMPS
25872---4.0---78---74---15.0
23912---5.5---97---76---17.9
22907---6.3---106---75---20.0
20534---8.1---124---70---25.0
19236---9.2---131---66---27.9
18336---9.9---134---63---30.1

For same day dyno run comparison:

* My #4 Monster with 767(+), 767(-)

RPM---TORQ---WATT---EF---AMPS
29026---2.7---60---56---15.1
26666---4.1---82---65---17.9
24988---5.1---95---67---20.0
22142---7.1---117---66---25.0
20594---8.3---126---64---27.9
19236---8.8---126---59---30.0

* My #1 P2K2 with 767(+), 766(-)

RPM---TORQ---WATT---EF---AMPS
23564---4.6---80---76---14.9
22094---5.7---94---74---17.9
21328---6.6---104---73---20.0
19345---8.4---121---69---25.0
18416---9.4---128---65---27.9
17375---10.2---131---61---30.1

I'm going to try the CO27 with two 767's, two Putnam greens and two XXX's tonight. Stay tuned!

wow those are real good #'s are all thoses at 7.00 volts?
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