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Tamiya TB 05 Pro

Old 04-16-2020, 09:01 AM
  #391  
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Originally Posted by rippen View Post
The front inner mounts are A / XA and the front-front is 1A........The rear inner mounts are A / XA and the rears-rear is D1...... I have those exact mounts but in aluminum on my TB05 and it's on rails. The letter and number determines the amount of toe and anti-squat
Ah got it. Just realized Tamiya makes non adjustable mounts as well! I was referring to the adjustable XB, A, E mounts and which ones to get for those. Either way its been really helpful, thanks!
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Old 04-23-2020, 01:19 AM
  #392  
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Hi guys, so I got back into rc recently after being away for 8 years. And because of the lockdown I bought a tb05 pro for cheap and started building, really enjoyed building a shaft car since I started out with a tt01, and ended with my ta05.
I notice that the tb05 shaft are a little loud at low speed. Is that normal? As I shim it accordingly to the manual.
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Old 04-23-2020, 03:43 AM
  #393  
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The shining in the manual is more like a set of guidelines. You need to shim to feel. It takes some time and extra shims, but once you get it, the drivetrain is liquid smooth.

the gears should have a very slight ( thickness of a sheet paper “ tick” to them. Just like when you set the mesh on the pinion and spur
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Old 04-23-2020, 10:27 PM
  #394  
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Originally Posted by theproffesor View Post
The shining in the manual is more like a set of guidelines. You need to shim to feel. It takes some time and extra shims, but once you get it, the drivetrain is liquid smooth.

the gears should have a very slight ( thickness of a sheet paper “ tick” to them. Just like when you set the mesh on the pinion and spur

Thank you for your help proffesor.
can I take a look at roughly how you guys shim so I can roughly get an idea of how it should be.
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Old 04-24-2020, 02:56 PM
  #395  
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Originally Posted by nameless View Post
Thank you for your help proffesor.
can I take a look at roughly how you guys shim so I can roughly get an idea of how it should be.
You can check my previous post here and see if it helps you.

In that post I mention about the gearboxes. On most, if not all TB03 gearboxes I noticed that the 10x15mm bearings have a lot of up/down play (maybe 0.5mm?) even when the two halves of the gearbox are tightened, causing the diff to rock up/down even when the horizontal play is shimmed out.

What I do is wet sand the top half of the case to effectively lower the upper semi-circular bearing seat to reduce the clearances.

If you decide to sand them, it is important to check the bearing clearances during the sanding process by fastening the top and bottom together with only the bearings seated inside (no diff). Try to apply even pressure when sanding and do it on a flat surface such as glass. You can tell when the clearance is good when the bearings are slightly snug and only fall out (or back in) with a slight push from the outside.

In case too much material is removed and the bearings end up being too tight, shims can be added between the top/bottom halves to raise the cover and increase clearance. Maybe this is unnecessary work but I personally prefer rotating parts to be properly restrained before proceeding to adjustment of gear mesh with shims.
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Old 04-29-2020, 11:41 PM
  #396  
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Originally Posted by rc_square24 View Post
You can check my previous post here and see if it helps you.

In that post I mention about the gearboxes. On most, if not all TB03 gearboxes I noticed that the 10x15mm bearings have a lot of up/down play (maybe 0.5mm?) even when the two halves of the gearbox are tightened, causing the diff to rock up/down even when the horizontal play is shimmed out.

What I do is wet sand the top half of the case to effectively lower the upper semi-circular bearing seat to reduce the clearances.

If you decide to sand them, it is important to check the bearing clearances during the sanding process by fastening the top and bottom together with only the bearings seated inside (no diff). Try to apply even pressure when sanding and do it on a flat surface such as glass. You can tell when the clearance is good when the bearings are slightly snug and only fall out (or back in) with a slight push from the outside.

In case too much material is removed and the bearings end up being too tight, shims can be added between the top/bottom halves to raise the cover and increase clearance. Maybe this is unnecessary work but I personally prefer rotating parts to be properly restrained before proceeding to adjustment of gear mesh with shims.



Once again thank you proffesor, I will try the sanding method.
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Old 04-30-2020, 10:09 AM
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Sold, thanks~

Last edited by JoeyE; 05-02-2020 at 09:39 AM. Reason: Sold
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Old 05-10-2020, 09:07 AM
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If true this is very upsetting
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Old 05-10-2020, 09:08 AM
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Maybe they'll come out with a different version of this chassis maybe that's why they had it on sale for $200
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Old 05-10-2020, 09:35 AM
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Either they decided to release a base kit lile they used to do with tb04 or there are tb05 pro v2 with updated 420 style arm.

Damn it, just cough out the 05r, i have been waiting for two years....
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Old 05-11-2020, 03:57 AM
  #401  
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Originally Posted by fat500 View Post
If true this is very upsetting
From what web site was this screen shot taken? Updated - Taken from Horizon Hobby- They are DISCONTINUING carrying the kit -

Last edited by NCHPIboy; 05-13-2020 at 04:16 AM.
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Old 05-11-2020, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by rc_square24 View Post
You can check my previous post here and see if it helps you.

In that post I mention about the gearboxes. On most, if not all TB03 gearboxes I noticed that the 10x15mm bearings have a lot of up/down play (maybe 0.5mm?) even when the two halves of the gearbox are tightened, causing the diff to rock up/down even when the horizontal play is shimmed out.

What I do is wet sand the top half of the case to effectively lower the upper semi-circular bearing seat to reduce the clearances.

If you decide to sand them, it is important to check the bearing clearances during the sanding process by fastening the top and bottom together with only the bearings seated inside (no diff). Try to apply even pressure when sanding and do it on a flat surface such as glass. You can tell when the clearance is good when the bearings are slightly snug and only fall out (or back in) with a slight push from the outside.

In case too much material is removed and the bearings end up being too tight, shims can be added between the top/bottom halves to raise the cover and increase clearance. Maybe this is unnecessary work but I personally prefer rotating parts to be properly restrained before proceeding to adjustment of gear mesh with shims.
I noticed this very same thing when building my TT02 kit as well ... I also sanded down the upper diff gear covers to make bearings fit snug.
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Old 05-12-2020, 11:13 AM
  #403  
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I just purchased myself a TB-05 Pro as wel, they were on sale at T2shop. So they are probably indeed going to be replaced. Excited about the build!
i have bult a fair share of 414, 415's and 416's, TT01, TT02, and all kind of offroad cars..
i am a bit disappointed with the standard meshing of the gears. The diff gears grind a bit and the shims defined in the manual are too thick. Same for the gear connecting the diff.
i am up to building the dampers, next up is the driveline and motor.. still not entirely clear what motor to put in there, either a brushed tamiya RZ or a brushless 8.5T set I have lying around.
I will race the car on the street in front of our house, will draw out a parcours in chalk and put workout cones on the corners love living in a dead--end street!

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Old 05-12-2020, 12:23 PM
  #404  
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Default Not listed as discontinued on Tamiya USA site


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Old 05-16-2020, 11:25 PM
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I've seen a few people mention that the TB05 is a 'failed chassis' (mostly in the TC01 thread) which surprised me, so I thought I would ask the users. It looks like a great chassis to me, how do you racers find it? My TA07 is way better than I am and I'm the reason its slow! Is the TB05 a decent clubracer or just a pretty unique chassis that is good for displaying bodies?
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