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Tamiya TB 05 Pro

Old 07-12-2018, 03:25 PM
  #151  
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Talking about Tamiya or Tom? lol

That's passion dude!
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Old 07-12-2018, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Airwave View Post
What's the point of buying a TB05 and an infinite quantity of options instead of buy an Evo7 directly?
The more kits you buy, the better....
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Old 07-12-2018, 04:46 PM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by Tom1977 View Post
Finally released in Germany.
Sorry, but I couldn't withstand!
Chassis will be a full-op with some cross carrying parts...



Buildt review later on...
three kits price in one build...
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Old 07-12-2018, 06:17 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by NumptyRacing View Post
Run another pack through yesterday, roll centres ok for now that will come later need to get it driveable first! Found the rear diff was dragging so that was re shimmed and fitted a front spool. the car was much better but had to drive aggressively on the throttle to stop oversteer, the back was fairly loose at mid corner but using old tyres so that doesnt help but too much rear flex could be the issue too. I think rear motor will be best suited to the track I run on due to grip but I like the car for the front motor position so will persevere with it
i ran my second weekend and found similar issues. i itched to firmer springs blue front and yellow rear. Blue from roll bar and red in the rear. Chassis was much more stable. I have reconfigured to the front motor setup and will try this weekend. I'm missing some mid field corner speed due to a slightly pushy set up. More testing.
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Old 07-12-2018, 11:27 PM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by zxcvb1t View Post
three kits price in one build...
lol I went through the same thing back in the ta05 days. Stuck it out with TRF kits when I found my ta05 was worth two 415 kits
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Old 07-15-2018, 09:40 AM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by EB Racer View Post


i ran my second weekend and found similar issues. i itched to firmer springs blue front and yellow rear. Blue from roll bar and red in the rear. Chassis was much more stable. I have reconfigured to the front motor setup and will try this weekend. I'm missing some mid field corner speed due to a slightly pushy set up. More testing.
Have to say I was pretty impressed with it today, fitted alloy suspension pin holders same as kit, 418 sway bars red rear yellow front, yellow rear springs and blue front and some fairly new sweep 36s. The track was pretty grippy today and the front motor position really suited it. Still a little mid corner oversteer but can be overcome by getting on the throttle earlier. Also was using a 2002 NSX body

Last edited by NumptyRacing; 07-15-2018 at 09:53 AM.
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Old 07-16-2018, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by NumptyRacing View Post
Have to say I was pretty impressed with it today, fitted alloy suspension pin holders same as kit, 418 sway bars red rear yellow front, yellow rear springs and blue front and some fairly new sweep 36s. The track was pretty grippy today and the front motor position really suited it. Still a little mid corner oversteer but can be overcome by getting on the throttle earlier. Also was using a 2002 NSX body
i ran both the rear and front motor positions and the front seems to have better turn in in the in-field at Tamiya USA. I had to play around with the droop screws to get things right. 1-1.5 mm rear down stroke really helped to get the car turning in the slower part of the track. Next is to change the spool to a front diff. Looking for more corner speed. Best body so far seems to be the rakairi gt. I also like the Ferrari TDF.

i rebuilt the drive train last night, and with proper shimming, this is now the free-est chassis that I have had. It might spin freely longer than my front drive chassis. Can't wait to drive it again.
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Old 07-17-2018, 01:07 PM
  #158  
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Default Battery does not fit

How did you solve this problem???
Plug bends the frame, if I connect it...


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Old 07-17-2018, 01:51 PM
  #159  
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Gotta use the NiCd batteries with those Tamiyas
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Old 07-17-2018, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by lagcisco View Post
Gotta use the NiCd batteries with those Tamiyas
Ehm...no!

Okay, what's the deal here? Missed something?
Never had issues with LiPo's in my Tamiya's.
Plugs orientated to the rear are more worse...


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Old 07-17-2018, 02:24 PM
  #161  
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I have no issues except with my 8200’s a little tight. Batt in pic is 6000
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Old 07-17-2018, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by cpal View Post

I have no issues except with my 8200’s a little tight. Batt in pic is 6000
It seems you have the same problem. But your connector is more flat soldered. But this does not solve my problem.
I guess, sanding the chassis in this area would not be the best solution for TCS...
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Old 07-17-2018, 11:10 PM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by Tom1977 View Post
It seems you have the same problem. But your connector is more flat soldered. But this does not solve my problem.
I guess, sanding the chassis in this area would not be the best solution for TCS...
LCG LiPo's?
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Old 07-18-2018, 02:21 AM
  #164  
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Default Wow, does it flex like a noodle?

Originally Posted by cpal View Post

I have no issues except with my 8200’s a little tight. Batt in pic is 6000
I didn't realised, from reading the manual and looking at pics from Tamiya media releases, just how empty the centre of the chassis looks. Seems to me like the lateral flex is controlled entirely by the 2 side braces, which are not linked to the centre at any point (unlike ta07) does this cause a lot of flex? It looks scary from this perspective. At least the TB Evo 7 has gung ho alu pieces down the centre for flex control?

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Old 07-18-2018, 03:08 AM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by foampervert View Post
I didn't realised, from reading the manual and looking at pics from Tamiya media releases, just how empty the centre of the chassis looks. Seems to me like the lateral flex is controlled entirely by the 2 side braces, which are not linked to the centre at any point (unlike ta07) does this cause a lot of flex? It looks scary from this perspective. At least the TB Evo 7 has gung ho alu pieces down the centre for flex control?
Lateral flex is like a wet noodle. If you bend the chassis at the wrench, you see the sidebraces going outside. Not to mention, what in a crash happens. This is the reason, why I installed the carbon side members from start. And i recommend to do it!



Last edited by Tom1977; 07-18-2018 at 08:42 AM.
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