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Old 04-23-2009, 10:00 AM   #286
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Originally Posted by RC TTwins View Post
agreed my hobby shop wouldn't carry them james called next thing i know my parts are dun in a few days. I cant wait ill have to call them tomorrow to see if they came in.
Thanks RCTTwins. Your parts should have been in on Monday, latest Tuesday. Give them a call. We appreciate your support.
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Old 04-23-2009, 10:50 AM   #287
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Any word on the new car? They should send one to us so we can make trick parts to the scalpel's big brother.
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:52 AM   #288
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My comments below:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slideaway View Post
All right HarryN,
Here my comment for each paragraph:

The body post material is a bit dry and will unfortunately break on severe crash. But the next evolution (Avid 2009) will have a material change for a more flexible one...
I wish more information and pictures would be released about this kit. From the toy fair, the car looked like a decent carpet competitor. I especially liked the roll center setup. Definitely a leg up over the current design, by far.

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Originally Posted by Slideaway View Post
Yes, the diff ring must be glued. But if you take the time to prepare the two surfaces before glueing (pulley + ring using a hobby knife to slightly scratch and remove the dismolding agent from the surface + brake cleaner to degrease totally) , you will not meet any trouble. I ran the Avid for more than 1 year and I never met any problem. Put some ceramic balls in and you will have one of the best diff ever.
My differential never came apart. In fact, I have done what you stated and what was recommended by a couple people at my track when gluing the ring on. My only suggestion is to have some sort of perforation on the ring so it sits evenly and not lob-sided. It took me two attempts to get the ring installed without being taller on one end versus the other.

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Originally Posted by Slideaway View Post
As you may noticed, the spool is not exactly symetric left/right. That means you have get it in the bulkhead with the proper side. Otherwise, the two belt may touch each other.
I have known this and paid attention to the "idiot-proof" labels of left and right. The spool was installed correctly. I did not like how close the belts were when I would accelerate the motor. On slow revs, the belts stay apart. On higher revs, they were creeping closer together. That did not set easy with me.

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Originally Posted by Slideaway View Post
4h hours to build a RC model is not that long. Don't forget that R/C model is also a hobby and means "spending time" by definition.
+1

However, when parts fit well together, especially the screws and whatnot, it makes it less of a pain and more of a joy. My T2R Pro was finished within 3 hours. Setup was an additional 1 - 2 hours, mainly from reading the setup book from Hudy and prepping the car for its initial run. The car was driveable as soon as I put it on the track. THAT is what I liked a ton!

The AVID was a pain from beginning till its current shelf spot. However, I may bring the car out again for the up and coming asphalt races at a track near me. I have no doubt in my mind that the AVID is going to stand out! But on the carpet at my indoor track, that thing was all over the place. No matter what spring was used, what setup modification made, it would not drive under power. But when I put the car on the parking lot, it GRIPPED!! And it was driveable. Granted I did not get the upper and lower chassis designed for carpet on my car, it did very well on the road.

SK Motion and company are a great bunch of people to deal with as well. Ty and James are definitely a great asset to Robitronic's presence here in the states. I would recommend anyone looking into purchasing these cars to have their hobby stores contact James at SK Motion. Professional, straight forward, and definitely keep the customer in mind.
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Old 04-23-2009, 04:01 PM   #289
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Yep,

Many little things will be added in the next version. Upper linkages design will get more simple and easier to set-up, which means new shock towers with more holes for fine tuning, the C clips on front C-hub and rear hub will disapear for a M3x3 screw, chassis flex will now be symetrical and a new ackermann bar will come among other things.

I fully understand and admit as well that the Avid is making Donut's on carpet.
I sadly experienced this either. No matter the change I made on the chassis, it was still the same.
The steering pivots design makes the car to turn super quickly. It's a real advantage on high grip asphalt but it's a real pain on carpet.

Maybe you already tried this little things on carpet:
- Use only 40 up 50% of the steering dual rate.
- Move the steering linkage attachement on the most forward position on the red steering block (or knuckle).
- The "banana" steering bar can also be reverse to reduce the sensitivity around neutral position.
- If it's still not enough, just like on 1/12 pan car and if your transmitter has this function: you can reduce the speed of the steering servo up to 40% from neutral to full right/left position. But keep 100% of the speed for the return to neutral position.
This speed reduction will avoid a too sudden weight transfer during direction changes and will keep the rear train much safer.
By consequence, it will make the car quite easier to drive.

Yep, SK Motion sounds to be super pro. I'm happy that the USA got a real support for this car. Unfortunately, it was definitely not the same for my native country.

Cheers
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Old 04-24-2009, 12:26 PM   #290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slideaway View Post
Yep,

Many little things will be added in the next version. Upper linkages design will get more simple and easier to set-up, which means new shock towers with more holes for fine tuning, the C clips on front C-hub and rear hub will disapear for a M3x3 screw, chassis flex will now be symetrical and a new ackermann bar will come among other things.
Where did you get this info, if I may ask? I want to read up on the new car from Robitronic. Also, is the steering servo still in the same spot? Or is it turned around, similar to how the Xray has their steering servo placed?

I may be taking the current Robitronic car I have sitting now, and prep it for asphalt racing. Somehow I get a feeling it is going to be one hell of a performer!

Thanks for the information about the new car.
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Old 04-24-2009, 04:38 PM   #291
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Hi HarryN,

Let's say I used to be very close to the Robitronic Design Department.
The changes I listed are no longer a secret as they shown the new version prototype during the latest Nuremberg Toyfair.
They also intended to keep the same servo position to offer customers a full compatibility between the 2 chassis. People could both buy the new kit or upgrade their old version with the new parts of their choice.
The chassis on the new version should also have a slightly different flex design: the large hole under the spool would be reduced and the two "waves" under the diff would disapear.
Also, the battery slots would come "straight" and no longer with the "curves".
These are the bigger changes, some other little details would also come along.
Patience... ;-)

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Old 04-26-2009, 07:23 PM   #292
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hello i need some help with new avid.
First run at the track and every thing looks great until i reach the hair pin and half in the corner the rear lets go.(the car is set to the book) after a few laps back in to check it out,couldn't find any thing wrong so in the short of it all it didn't matter what changes i made the same problem was there.Any ideas.
thanks Steven.
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Old 04-26-2009, 09:37 PM   #293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casino Kid View Post
hello i need some help with new avid.
First run at the track and every thing looks great until i reach the hair pin and half in the corner the rear lets go.(the car is set to the book) after a few laps back in to check it out,couldn't find any thing wrong so in the short of it all it didn't matter what changes i made the same problem was there.Any ideas.
thanks Steven.
suspension too soft, chasis making contact with the carpet causing a spinout perhaps? check for rubber residue from the track along the outside edge of your chasis - it you find it, your touching... That kind of rubbing could also be caused by the ride height being too low also
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Old 04-26-2009, 11:21 PM   #294
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To Casino Kid,
This problem can come from so many factors.
Tell us more about the track - carpet - asphalt - grip level - technical - fast?
Your radio or speedo don't too much brake/auto brake? Steering speed ok ?
Did you already use the same tires on this track with another car before the Avid?
We can't help you with this little amount of info. And between you and me, I know that the Avid doesn't work that well out of the box.
You can find some set-up sheets on the Robitronic website (Ludo's or Sebastian's ones work fine).

Cheers
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Old 04-27-2009, 01:30 AM   #295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slideaway View Post
To Casino Kid,
This problem can come from so many factors.
Tell us more about the track - carpet - asphalt - grip level - technical - fast?
Your radio or speedo don't too much brake/auto brake? Steering speed ok ?
Did you already use the same tires on this track with another car before the Avid?
We can't help you with this little amount of info. And between you and me, I know that the Avid doesn't work that well out of the box.
You can find some set-up sheets on the Robitronic website (Ludo's or Sebastian's ones work fine).

Cheers
Slide
Slide
It seem to transfer weight to the front 1/2 way through the corner.
Track - Asphalt - built for 1/8 th nitro so some technical (3 hair pins) and fast.
Grip level - V good
Brake settings were backed right off to lowest setting about 10%,drag brake to lowest setting
servo return 100% steering speed is fine. even backed the steering right off.
Shocks - white on front grey on rear both with 35 weight oil and 3 hole piston and built with rebound.
When i turned the throttle trim up so that it just rolled the problem was not apparent, even through the hair pins.
handled good every where else except the hair pins.
Steven.
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Old 04-27-2009, 04:17 AM   #296
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Ok

I guess your front suspension is way too soft which amplify weight transfer when you arrive too fast in a slow corner like a pin.
Let's consider your tires are still ok to run and the traction compound you use is ok.

Try these:
- Put shock Oil 60 Front and Rear (35 is really too low grade).
- Put harder Springs on the Front (Hara Red 0.31, the hardest)
- Keep Avid white Springs on Rear for the moment.
- Front Droop at 5.5 under lower arm (right under the C-hub pin)
- Rear Droop at 4.4
- If you can borrow someone, don't hesitate to try an adaptation of a harder front sway bar and softer on the rear. (HB Cyclone black 1.6mm for Front and copper 1.4 for Rear, with light modifications, it works quite well on my car).

If your car is stricly out of the box, you may try to reverse the steering bar (the one that looks like a banana). The original steering set-up is quite too reactive and too sensitive. It's ok for the front train but the rear just can't follow. With reverse bar, it calms the reaction a lot.

Last thing, if your radio has this function, reduce the speed of the steering servo up to 30% but keep it 100% for the way back to neutral position.
It seems "reducing steering performance" but it's absolutely not and it definitely gets the car much easier to drive. That's exactly what we want, right?

Let us know how things go.
Cheers
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Old 04-29-2009, 07:01 PM   #297
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Does anyone have an extra servo mount for sale? I just need one.......

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Old 04-30-2009, 07:18 AM   #298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dimerip87gt View Post
Does anyone have an extra servo mount for sale? I just need one.......

Don't bother yourself, buy a pair and will have a spare.
Or wait a bit, the new version would come with servo mount 1mm higher than the first edition... The servo will not too stressed when attached on the chassis.

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Old 05-03-2009, 07:08 PM   #299
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Default Front Diff-Converted into a Spool

Awhile back there were some post about having some problems on a tight spool. Well I had the same problem & gave me alot of chatter on the front. Since I need to run a spool for the upcoming Reedy Race I decided to convert a front diff into a locked spool. I used everything in a diff assembly except for the diff balls. Also I lined the diff rings with servo tape. This assured me of having a good grip on the belt pulley. I had a chance to use it today & it worked very well. No chatter on high speed turns & very responsive on the turns.
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Old 05-04-2009, 09:17 PM   #300
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Can someone please help me? I am trying to take apart my car to clean and re oil the bearings and cannot get the wheel axle out of the knuckles , I pulled the snap rings off and still the axle wont come out of the bearing , is their something im missing?
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