Robitronic Avid Touring Car
02-25-2009, 01:47 PM
#226
James- when installing the spool do you still use the blades? when i tried to install the shafts with blades into outdrive cups the sleeve makes it really hard to push shaft in so i didnt use them. could that be the reason for the chatter too.
02-25-2009, 03:50 PM
#228
James- Sorry for the all the questions but on the front spool is their a left and right side or does it not matter. Well got my front diff and low friction belts (not white in color anymore mines are black?) from SpeedTech (A++ Service) hopefully ill make it down this sunday!!
02-25-2009, 03:51 PM
#229
you do not the need to use the blades on the spool.
02-25-2009, 04:06 PM
#230
James- Sorry for the all the questions but on the front spool is their a left and right side or does it not matter. Well got my front diff and low friction belts (not white in color anymore mines are black?) from SpeedTech (A++ Service) hopefully ill make it down this sunday!!
see if you can come race with us. its only $20 and its lots of fun.
Last edited by RobiUSA-James; 02-25-2009 at 04:36 PM.
02-25-2009, 08:19 PM
#231
The blades are a wear and tear item. When you over-stretch the blade while installing it, it will weaken the structure of the blade and possibly break. If you have taken it on and off before, it will weaken the blade.
The car was designed to have a little play in the c-hubs. It was meant to keep the car straight on uneven surfaces.
The car was designed to have a little play in the c-hubs. It was meant to keep the car straight on uneven surfaces.
As for the front hub play, this is way too much play, I think. Tamiya has some play too, but nowhere near that much. Other cars such as Yokomo have barely any play at all. True, the play doesn't seem to affect the car in an adverse way, but still, doesn't feel right. There are two factors which compound here. One is that the hinge pin hole (in the C hub) is larger than the hinge pin, and the second is that the C hub can slide about 1mm forward and and back on the hingepin. I suppose I could shim it, but shims down there are a pain in the butt to put in when assembling/servicing the car.
Last edited by niznai; 02-27-2009 at 10:18 PM.
02-26-2009, 09:18 AM
#232
niznai, you have a PM (private message).
03-06-2009, 12:12 PM
#234
RC TTwins-you can go to speedtech website they have parts and good service.
03-06-2009, 02:48 PM
#236
Well, I started assembling the car and 4 hours later, I have stopped at building the shocks. This car has been a bear to build from all the fitting I had to do, namely with number 10. It seems like the left housing (the longer piece) is bent since the carbon fiber brace did not fit on properly until I shaved down the carbon fiber. Furthermore, I have blisters on my palm from screwing in the ball joints. The plastic is very very hard!! It makes me think it is quite brittle since there is barely any flex. The body posts are similar with the brittle and hard plastic.
The biggest complaint I have about the kit thus far is the rear diff assembly. You have to GLUE THE RING onto the gear. That does not give me the warm and fuzzy namely because if something happens and that ring gives way, it could cost more than a ring for the rear diff. If there is a hop-up or a differential that fits this car for the rear, I am definitely going to get it.
The way the rear belt and front belt are so close to eachother is not giving me the warm and fuzzy. The picture that Gonzo posted is not what is shown on my car. The belts are extremely close to eachother. Hopefully it changes after running the car, but right now, I am not feeling it.
I will complete the car tomorrow. I spent most of my time straightening parts out, pre-fitting them in (especially on instruction 10), like as if I was building a Serpent VETEQ all over again. I would have completed the assembly of the car by now, but I am not liking pre-fitting everything. 4 hours is quite long for me.
I will say that the car looks pretty. But we'll see how it drives, sets up, and breaks. The setup of this car is definitely going to be a chore when trying to dial in the car for my track. I am not looking forward to it.
Everything is very counter-intuitive. Prime example being about setting the camber. You have to hold the screw underneath the carbon fiber support on the rear diff baces, which is blocked by the diff axles that come out and block the screws on the carbon fiber support. It could be a safety measure, I do not know. I am keeping my fingers crossed it performs. 
The biggest complaint I have about the kit thus far is the rear diff assembly. You have to GLUE THE RING onto the gear. That does not give me the warm and fuzzy namely because if something happens and that ring gives way, it could cost more than a ring for the rear diff. If there is a hop-up or a differential that fits this car for the rear, I am definitely going to get it.
The way the rear belt and front belt are so close to eachother is not giving me the warm and fuzzy. The picture that Gonzo posted is not what is shown on my car. The belts are extremely close to eachother. Hopefully it changes after running the car, but right now, I am not feeling it.
I will complete the car tomorrow. I spent most of my time straightening parts out, pre-fitting them in (especially on instruction 10), like as if I was building a Serpent VETEQ all over again. I would have completed the assembly of the car by now, but I am not liking pre-fitting everything. 4 hours is quite long for me.
I will say that the car looks pretty. But we'll see how it drives, sets up, and breaks. The setup of this car is definitely going to be a chore when trying to dial in the car for my track. I am not looking forward to it.
Everything is very counter-intuitive. Prime example being about setting the camber. You have to hold the screw underneath the carbon fiber support on the rear diff baces, which is blocked by the diff axles that come out and block the screws on the carbon fiber support. It could be a safety measure, I do not know. I am keeping my fingers crossed it performs. 
03-06-2009, 10:30 PM
#237
Not sure what ca glue means here (I believe cyanoacrylate glue aka crazy glue or instant glue), so I'll just drop in my suggestion. I used contact adhesive. This is more sticky and flexible. I had the same problem with the diffs in other cars in the past, so I stopped using instant glue and switched to contact adhesive. This never lets go even on some of the plastics where instant glue doesn't really adhere very well and when dry just comes off (in time or some accident).
03-06-2009, 11:00 PM
#238
Not sure what ca glue means here (I believe cyanoacrylate glue aka crazy glue or instant glue), so I'll just drop in my suggestion. I used contact adhesive. This is more sticky and flexible. I had the same problem with the diffs in other cars in the past, so I stopped using instant glue and switched to contact adhesive. This never lets go even on some of the plastics where instant glue doesn't really adhere very well and when dry just comes off (in time or some accident).
03-09-2009, 12:02 PM
#239
i dont think another diff will work. If anyone else has tried another diff, please chime in.
Avid parts are more widely available then it was a year ago. You can have your local hobby store contact me directly. I will be more than happy to set them up as a dealer. This way you can get parts faster and easier. It will also help on shipping. My number is 1-949-705-6668. There are no minimums and we do special orders.
Avid parts are more widely available then it was a year ago. You can have your local hobby store contact me directly. I will be more than happy to set them up as a dealer. This way you can get parts faster and easier. It will also help on shipping. My number is 1-949-705-6668. There are no minimums and we do special orders.
03-09-2009, 02:16 PM
#240
i dont think another diff will work. If anyone else has tried another diff, please chime in.
Avid parts are more widely available then it was a year ago. You can have your local hobby store contact me directly. I will be more than happy to set them up as a dealer. This way you can get parts faster and easier. It will also help on shipping. My number is 1-949-705-6668. There are no minimums and we do special orders.
Avid parts are more widely available then it was a year ago. You can have your local hobby store contact me directly. I will be more than happy to set them up as a dealer. This way you can get parts faster and easier. It will also help on shipping. My number is 1-949-705-6668. There are no minimums and we do special orders.
Any news on the new version of the AVID car? Also, the carpet setup parts for the current AVID, is this for carpet foam or rubber foam? Is it only the chassis bottom plate and top plate or are there are things?