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The Ideal "newbie" class. Needs a name, needs some fleshing out..

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The Ideal "newbie" class. Needs a name, needs some fleshing out..

Old 03-09-2018, 12:17 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by Lone Drifter View Post
The problem with On Road RC racing is , There is Nowhere for someone to start that doesn't cost a small fortune. When I started you could have basic Equiptment all of it for $300. Now thats almost all the cost of a F6 , only part of the cost of a Tc7.1 (both of those come with Nothing else but the Chassis)
A way to fix that , I don't think there is a way, Newbies have to have deep pockets or the industy is not interested in them
The "what you have" thing is still a big one. But... lets give this a swing.

"Lets go racing!"

Class: Euro Truck
Car: $135
ESC: included
Motor: included
Body: included
Wheels+Tires: included
Servo: TS-411mg. $15 Or, if we wanna keep it at the local hobby shop level, $60 for something savox.
Radio: $50-120 (something with dual rates..)
Charger: B6 based, $30
Battery: $30
Paint: $20
Weights: $5
Shock oil: $7, (Million weight, for shocks and front diff)
Tire Sauce: $11
Battery Connector: $3

.... Lets see here. That's $303 on the low end, and $420 on the high end, before tax.

That's... not so bad. Even with the cheapest chassis, any other class is going to be another $200 to $300 on top of that, not counting tuning parts.

Sadly, that sort of thing also means spending 5-6-7 hours assembling the kit and getting it painted, then a next day body assembly session.

Racing is a bit like crack, once you taste it......
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Old 03-09-2018, 12:48 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by JC3 View Post
I sort of agree with this but on the other hand there are nowadays PLENTY of options as have been mentioned aplenty in this thread. Serpent RTR for $350, Associated has the new TC4 aka the Apex with lipo and charger for $399, and IMO, the no brainer for a newb, the Traxxas 4-Tec VXL for $350ish RTR! A guy who visits our club is literally begging for a 4-Tec class. He loves them and in our last practice his 4-Tec was as fast as my TC4 and he was running 2 seconds a lap faster than me.

Regarding practice, I'm stoked because my club is starting outdoor/aspalt season soon. So what you say? Well, the outdoor track is open all the time so it's unlimited practice if you want it. No hours to work around, just you and the track when you want it. I'm really looking forward to that!
Outdoor track open all hours. Id love that. The 2 tracks in my area have hours that my schedule conflicts with. And the group I race with, parking lot track is only setup on race days.
All my practice is done with cones and my timing system. I figured if I can be consistent on a unprepared, cold surface. Then a prepared surface should be easier this summer. About 9 weeks to go.
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Old 03-09-2018, 01:57 PM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
[...]
That's the whole point. The class is to help beginners get into the hobby. If they get to the point where they can drive well enough to find it boring, then there are all the other classes they can try. That is exactly what we are trying to accomplish.
I think you are skipping something, for example games have tutorials so one can get accustomed to the mechanics of the game. With RC cars you are sending noobs to a trial by fire in a racing environment which uses slow cars. Ask people (adolescent people) on the streets if they would get into racing slow cars without showing any race. How many would say yes? They play video games and are good at it, if they take lessons from someone good they'll get the hang of it quick.

To drive my 1:1 car I had to take lessons to get a license. That's one of the things that RC is lacking, a sort of licence.


@Nerobro, you forgot tools! Those are handy.
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Old 03-09-2018, 02:08 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by 30Tooth View Post
@Nerobro, you forgot tools! Those are handy.
The car comes with the allen wrench you need, and a nut wrench for the axles. Assuming someone has a #2 phillips, paper towels, and needlenose pliars isn't a big leap. :-) But if you insist, throw $15 on there to add those two.
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Old 03-09-2018, 02:36 PM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by Nerobro View Post
The "what you have" thing is still a big one. But... lets give this a swing.

"Lets go racing!"

Class: Euro Truck
Car: $135
ESC: included
Motor: included
Body: included
Wheels+Tires: included
Servo: TS-411mg. $15 Or, if we wanna keep it at the local hobby shop level, $60 for something savox.
Radio: $50-120 (something with dual rates..)
Charger: B6 based, $30
Battery: $30
Paint: $20
Weights: $5
Shock oil: $7, (Million weight, for shocks and front diff)
Tire Sauce: $11
Battery Connector: $3

.... Lets see here. That's $303 on the low end, and $420 on the high end, before tax.

That's... not so bad. Even with the cheapest chassis, any other class is going to be another $200 to $300 on top of that, not counting tuning parts.

Sadly, that sort of thing also means spending 5-6-7 hours assembling the kit and getting it painted, then a next day body assembly session.

Racing is a bit like crack, once you taste it......
One of the clubs near my area tried that. It worked for a bit, but after one season, nobody runs it anymore. The novelty wore off.
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Old 03-09-2018, 02:57 PM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by Nerobro View Post
The car comes with the allen wrench you need, and a nut wrench for the axles. Assuming someone has a #2 phillips, paper towels, and needlenose pliars isn't a big leap. :-) But if you insist, throw $15 on there to add those two.
Fancy version.

Normal version.

I touched the tool subject because I've far too many guys that don't own a screwdriver. The common house doesn't have tools any more.
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Old 03-09-2018, 02:58 PM
  #127  
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Well, the question was "what it costs to go racing". Euro truck is still healthy here.
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Old 03-09-2018, 03:00 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by 30Tooth View Post
I touched the tool subject because I've far too many guys that don't own a screwdriver. The common house doesn't have tools any more.
The right size screwdriver, in decent quality is available at the local home depot for $2. And a pair of pliers, which buying a pair of... is closer to $10.

Those tool sets have always left me feeling empty, and sad. And with stripped screws.
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Old 03-09-2018, 03:58 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by Nerobro View Post
The right size screwdriver, in decent quality is available at the local home depot for $2. And a pair of pliers, which buying a pair of... is closer to $10.

Those tool sets have always left me feeling empty, and sad. And with stripped screws.
It's not the expense, it's the going to home depot from the LHS to get tools. People love packages and everything put together for them.
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Old 03-09-2018, 04:05 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by gigaplex View Post
One of the clubs near my area tried that. It worked for a bit, but after one season, nobody runs it anymore. The novelty wore off.
I know of clubs that run this class, but doesn't allow for any upgrades aside from bearings. I firmly believe the upgrade process for your car is vital in developing long timers. Over time, the people get bored and move on to 17.5, but the euro class becomes thin. It wouldn't be a problem if new racers are constantly coming in, but that's not the case most of the time.
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Old 03-09-2018, 04:08 PM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by 30Tooth View Post
Fancy version.

Normal version.

I touched the tool subject because I've far too many guys that don't own a screwdriver. The common house doesn't have tools any more.
Highly recommend getting one of these for beginners. The +driver is the correct size for Tamiya phillips screws.

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-300074...Q4AEKQ0C81D0HP
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Old 03-09-2018, 04:22 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by Nerobro View Post
The "what you have" thing is still a big one. But... lets give this a swing.

"Lets go racing!"

Class: Euro Truck
Car: $135
ESC: included
Motor: included
Body: included
Wheels+Tires: included
Servo: TS-411mg. $15 Or, if we wanna keep it at the local hobby shop level, $60 for something savox.
Radio: $50-120 (something with dual rates..)
Charger: B6 based, $30
Battery: $30
Paint: $20
Weights: $5
Shock oil: $7, (Million weight, for shocks and front diff)
Tire Sauce: $11
Battery Connector: $3

.... Lets see here. That's $303 on the low end, and $420 on the high end, before tax.

That's... not so bad. Even with the cheapest chassis, any other class is going to be another $200 to $300 on top of that, not counting tuning parts.

Sadly, that sort of thing also means spending 5-6-7 hours assembling the kit and getting it painted, then a next day body assembly session.

Racing is a bit like crack, once you taste it......
Yeah , I would get the bearing too cant cost too much.the only difference is that when I started that $300 was a full race spec not a dicount class.

It would have me interested if it wasn't a truck( unless it was a Nastruck)
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Old 03-09-2018, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by redbones View Post
Highly recommend getting one of these for beginners. The +driver is the correct size for Tamiya phillips screws.

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-300074...Q4AEKQ0C81D0HP
That looks good enough.
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Old 03-09-2018, 04:39 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by redbones View Post
I know of clubs that run this class, but doesn't allow for any upgrades aside from bearings. I firmly believe the upgrade process for your car is vital in developing long timers. Over time, the people get bored and move on to 17.5, but the euro class becomes thin. It wouldn't be a problem if new racers are constantly coming in, but that's not the case most of the time.
I think eurotruck is best if the only option is bearings.
Take a look at stock buggy Once upon a time you bought it ,you raced it, now They make you buy two if you race on different conditions 3 gera ,4gear , laydown .oh you want to race stock? gut the whole drivetrain buy all theses lightened parts , you want durability? replace all these parts with aluminum
Hop Up parts are the absolute worst part of RC racing
Sorry Just my Rant of the Day
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Old 03-09-2018, 05:00 PM
  #135  
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The only problem I see with Euro truck class is that its a 1 class chassis only. If a person were to decide that they wanted to move up. Then its a whole new round of expenses.
Now Im by no way part of the just buy an XRay. But going with one of the budget chassis still seems like a better start.
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