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Old 03-25-2007, 11:17 AM   #271
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well after a while waiting Parcelforce have finally sent me a letter to tell me my SP12X is sat at there depo waiting for me to pay the customs charges. Hopefully i will be able to go and pick it up tomorrow.

Is it worth me fitting the Corally front end from the start or shud i just fit the associated/CRC one from the start?
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Old 03-25-2007, 12:49 PM   #272
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If the drivers I race with are anything to go by, then it isn't worth persevering with the Corally front end. My team mate tried it, started to fiddle lots with settings, and then tried the Assoc. front end - and never took it off! I went straight to the Assoc. front end!

Not tried the Assoc. T-bars. We have had most success with the Corally thick t-bar (2.0mm). Note that they have changed the design to beef up the bar, so the new-design thick T-bar is stiffer, and is maybe better than the Assoc one. HTH
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Old 03-25-2007, 01:46 PM   #273
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I posted some of my findings on the corally front end in the other 12x thread, its in the company and teams section. one thing I have been playing with is castor. I just put a shim under the front of the arm mount. Its about 1 mm thick and seems to help out with the high speed steering. I'm going to try and file one of the roll center shims to make something more permanent. Don't give up on it yet, I'm happy with mine, I don't think its any better than the assoc/crc front end, but it can be tuned in once you know how to work with it. the must have thing with this front end is the springs from the 12m.
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Old 03-26-2007, 07:22 AM   #274
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Recieved my SP12X this morning. Just about to pull it to pieces to prep the carbon parts. How much further back do i need to drill the pair of servo post holes? Is it 8mm further back from center to center?
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Old 04-02-2007, 01:03 PM   #275
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Where is the best place to get parts here in the states?
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Old 04-02-2007, 05:00 PM   #276
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Superior hobbies...
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Old 04-02-2007, 07:49 PM   #277
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I will contact them... Thanks
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Old 04-03-2007, 01:24 PM   #278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
Recieved my SP12X this morning. Just about to pull it to pieces to prep the carbon parts. How much further back do i need to drill the pair of servo post holes? Is it 8mm further back from center to center?
Yes, 8mm centre-to-centre. Use the correct countersink, Metric and Imperial screws have different angles!

HTH
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Old 04-03-2007, 01:31 PM   #279
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Metrics are 90 deg. imperial are 82 deg.
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Old 04-03-2007, 06:06 PM   #280
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Anybody aware of any solution to making rear 1/2mm ride height adjustments? 1/4mm adjustments would be nicer.

When the car wears in to 3mm of rear height, I'd like the option to go back to 3.5mm (or even 3.25mm), not 4mm or more. Can't do that with the stock adjusters.

I suppose it could be argued that a person could have an additional set of tires trued to say 41.5mm ready to put on when the ones your using hit 40.5mm (giving you back 1/2mm of ride height), but that's not a very good solution.

Ideas?
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Old 04-03-2007, 08:00 PM   #281
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BTW, Stormer has parts for these cars too!
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Old 04-04-2007, 04:07 PM   #282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ffejdat
BTW, Stormer has parts for these cars too!


Anybody notice the width difference when running US wheels on the front?
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Old 04-04-2007, 04:17 PM   #283
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Bob, when i had a 12X, yes I noticed how wide the front end was, especially with the CRC High Roller type wheel, it wouldn't even fit under the body in front! I ended up having some of the older Corally front axles for US wheels laying around, the kind that keep the bearings in the knuckle, and these brought the width back in line... Those would only work with wheels with no shoulder in the middle though....
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Old 04-04-2007, 07:19 PM   #284
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Would anyone know the part number for the (US spec) hardened front axles to replace the original blue alloy ones?

Cheers
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Old 04-04-2007, 10:12 PM   #285
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question: I just drilled the servo holes back far enough to use the associated front end and when getting everything all set I noticed that the spur would always slip until I had it locked down to the point where the spur would turn the armature. I backed it off since that is not right, but I can move the spur gear still. Is this just the way the corally diffs are and should I be able to slip the spur, or perhaps do you think I have some grease on the O-rings?
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