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Old 02-23-2007, 01:41 PM   #256
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oops, must learn to read!!!
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Old 02-25-2007, 09:29 PM   #257
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I also forgot to ask; i never saw mentioned that the kit comes with extra rear ride height adjusters. I also didnt see them avalible for sale. Are they included in the kit?
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Old 02-26-2007, 09:48 AM   #258
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Yes it comes with all 3 corally ride height adjusters. They are also available, not sure what the pt no is off hand.
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Old 02-26-2007, 10:30 AM   #259
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Default F.S CORALLY 12X U.S SPEC

I HAVE A BRAND NEW CORALLY 12X U.S SPEC WITH 200.00 DOLLARS WORTH OF SPARE PARTS STILL IN PACKAGES ENOUGH YOU COULD ALMOST BUILD ANOTHER CAR MINUS THE CHASSIS... AND EVEN A NEW CORALLY BENCH TOWEL LOCAL TRACK DOES NOT HAVE ENOUGH 1/12 SO IM TAKING A LOST AND SELLING THIS NEW CAR ...ITS A ROLLER WITH PURPLE FRONTS AND GREY REARS NO BODY OR ELECTRONICS HAVE CLOSE TOO 500.00 INVESTED WITH CAR AND PARTS ASKING 300.00 PLUS SHIPPING THIS IS A NEW CAR NOT USED STILL HAVE BOX AND INSTRUCTIONS AND DECALS NOT [email protected]
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Old 02-26-2007, 03:09 PM   #260
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is there a new corally t-bar? I was just going to sell mine because I was frustrated with beaking t-bars and motor pod plates! but if they fixed the problem I would love to run it!!!!
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Old 02-26-2007, 08:46 PM   #261
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last question(s), are the longer corally piniors required, and how low can the rear tires be run before they stop making rideheight at say, 4mm?
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Old 03-02-2007, 11:58 AM   #262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subman
is there a new corally t-bar? I was just going to sell mine because I was frustrated with beaking t-bars and motor pod plates! but if they fixed the problem I would love to run it!!!!
Yes, we have received a new design for the 1.6mm T-bar in the UK. It is shaped like and AE t-bar, putting more material on the rear (the top of the 'T') to strenghten it. I guess it will also be a little stiffer too, but that is no bad thing! HTH
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Old 03-02-2007, 12:01 PM   #263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Switch Blade
last question(s), are the longer corally piniors required, and how low can the rear tires be run before they stop making rideheight at say, 4mm?
Long-boss pinions are the best solution. You can run some types of short-boss (depends on how short the boss is, and where the grub-screw is) but it is a gamble, and it is very embarrasing when they fall off!!

Rear tyres can be run down to the rims, almost. Certainly no problem running them at 42mm!! HTH
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Old 03-02-2007, 12:22 PM   #264
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The thick bars are also in the new design.

As for pinions, Corally now go bigger in their range, but can't remember how big!! The Kimbrough graphite pinions are also very good - a little longer than normal, fine for the 12X.
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Old 03-02-2007, 08:53 PM   #265
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I was looking at the pic of mark fishers car from the bird what top deck is he running on the pod
http://rcforum.co.kr/news/thumbnail/....resampled.jpg
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Old 03-09-2007, 12:13 PM   #266
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I have just ordered my SP12X long with a Zytek shell, associated front end, CRC front end parts and quite a few sets of tyres.

Are there any pointers for building the car?
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Old 03-09-2007, 12:54 PM   #267
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it comes built for the most part you will need to grease the diff and the dampner tubes and build the shock and make sure all the screws are tight and take the center screw out of the t plate it helps keep it from braking the lower pod plate
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Old 03-10-2007, 11:58 AM   #268
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Getting ready to sell my 12X US Spec if anyone is interested. Comes with the Associated front end mounted as well as the Corally front end. New in package spares like a T-bar, corally springs, a few others. PM me if anyone is interested before I list it.

Thanks!
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Old 03-11-2007, 05:41 AM   #269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
I have just ordered my SP12X long with a Zytek shell, associated front end, CRC front end parts and quite a few sets of tyres.

Are there any pointers for building the car?
Check all the screws and use some threadlock on the lower screws for the pod, cross-brace (including centre mount) T-piece pivot balls and front shock mount. Clean the diff O-Ring thoroughly, and sand both sides on some 600 wet 'n dry; do the same with the surface of the diff ring that meets the O-Ring.

When fitting an AE front end, drill two new holes in the chassis 8mm further back from the rear-most set of servo-mount holes. This allows the steering rods to be mounted in front of the servo-saver. Fit a CRC Pro-Brace in place of the AE carbon-fibre one.

Replace the plastic rear axle spacers (if you have them, some kits come without) with metal ones, and if you want to space the axle out to max width, remember that there is an extra 1mm spacing on the diff side - it is not equal spacing both sides.

For tuning the rear end, replace the one-piece spacer between t-piece and pod with two washers the same thickness. This reduces stiffness in bump and gives better traction. A base set-up for using Jack additive is...

Front
Purples, .020" springs, 5 deg blocks, 1 deg camber, 4 deg castor (one washer each side of top wishbone) no pre-load in Pro-Brace, 0deg toe.

Centre Shock
Green spring, 30 weight oil

Rear
Greys, 170mm width, two screws in 2mm T-piece, Losi medium hydra-drive fluid in side dampers, standard shock height, 4.0mm O rings on pivot blocks.

Parma Zytek body, 4mm ride height all round (drop the front 0.5mm for more steering) LRP 4* brushless for more goooooo!!!

HTH

Last edited by SlowerOne; 03-11-2007 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 03-23-2007, 03:45 AM   #270
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Default sp12x front end.

Anybody still using the SP12x front end?

I'd love to see some information on what others have found with setting the arm droop and up travel limits. Anybody got anything there? What's really going on if you let the arm droop or not.
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