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Old 12-18-2006, 10:49 AM   #211
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It looks like Corally have updated their 1/12 wheel offering to include the US market. Check it out: http://international.corally.com/def...ernational.htm.
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Old 12-18-2006, 12:57 PM   #212
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I have a SP12X U.S. Version for sale.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=140871
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Old 12-18-2006, 01:55 PM   #213
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Has anyone had any problem fitting Parma front tires to the car? The wheels seem to have a narrower center section than any other.
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Old 12-18-2006, 11:30 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glowster21
Has anyone had any problem fitting Parma front tires to the car? The wheels seem to have a narrower center section than any other.
you have to use flanged bearings for parma tires .
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Old 12-21-2006, 11:15 AM   #215
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Does anyone know the rating on the springs that come with the US Spe car for the VCS shock? What pound tension are they?
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Old 12-22-2006, 08:23 PM   #216
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Default sp12x pushing under power

hey I got an 12x and I am having problem with it pushing under power when
coming out of an turn, and it seems to be hard to set ride high with the washers and then adjest front camber
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Old 12-22-2006, 10:28 PM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicko
hey I got an 12x and I am having problem with it pushing under power when
coming out of an turn, and it seems to be hard to set ride high with the washers and then adjest front camber

Try Magenta (Fronts) Gray (Rears)
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Old 12-23-2006, 06:49 AM   #218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicko
hey I got an 12x and I am having problem with it pushing under power when
coming out of an turn, and it seems to be hard to set ride high with the washers and then adjest front camber
Magenta fronts will be a huge help......Set the Camber first then set the ride height. You may need to get the optional shim set which has .5mm shims as well. You will absolutely LOVE the car once you get comfortable with it.
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Old 01-07-2007, 08:53 AM   #219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhambrent
Any one have pic of a sp12x, with a brushless system in its.
Sakke Ahoniemis car (pic by overrc.com). Not the nicest setup though ...

Any experience with front axle screw settings yet? Would this be a valid start sequence:

1. Put car with tires and fully equipped on flat surface
2. Adjust spring collars to get to the right wishbone angle (= camber). -1 to -2 deg?
3. Take car in your hand
4. Adjust downstop screws so that the front springs are just "free"
5. Put car down on surface again
6. Adjust front ride height with shims on kingpin
7. Forget about the upstop screw if you are going with the kit springs. For softer springs allow 2mm of down travel

Any other ideas?

Just another question. How would you gear an LRP X11 5.5T brushless?
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Old 01-13-2007, 05:56 PM   #220
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Does the SP12X come with the holes in the chassis to fit the associated front end?
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Old 01-14-2007, 01:27 AM   #221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
Does the SP12X come with the holes in the chassis to fit the associated front end?
yes it does. It has it pre drilled so you can place the assosciated front end with out problems.

Ronald
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Old 01-14-2007, 06:17 AM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
Does the SP12X come with the holes in the chassis to fit the associated front end?
It comes with the holes drilled, but you have to deal with servo mounting issues. You either have to drill new holes and countersink them to mount the servo or lay it on the chassis with double sided tape. The holes to mount the servo with the corally front end are too far forward to work with the associated front end.
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Old 01-14-2007, 06:21 AM   #223
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Maybe you could consider the new CRC front end also.
This is hole-compatable with the associated.

Cheers

Mark

in fact.. here is a picture of one on a corally:
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/images/st...lyprostrut.jpg

Cheers
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Old 01-15-2007, 09:53 PM   #224
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Ran my 12x for the first time last Sunday (same venue as this weekends national) and I have to say it was very good indeed! Tried various fronts to go with gold rears but ended up running purple fronts with pink rears. Got some good ideas to help as well. For example, if you are running the US spec car, get axle bearings that are flanged. First off, instead of all the load going on to a small piece of plastic within the ride height adaptor, it loads on the front of it as well (I was shown an adaptor that the bearing had pulled right through!) and secondly, you don't have to use any spacers to get the max width because the flange takes care of that for you! (Thanks to big Jon P for that tip!) On the front end, there is a small screw that bolts down onto the pin that the suspension arms pivot on. If you do the screw up too tight it bends the pin and locks the movement of the suspension arm up. Instead, put another screw through the BOTTOM of the centre block so to 'pinch' the pin between 2 screws. This will keep the pin secure but stop any binding (thanks to Robin H for that tip!). The only other thing to make sure other screws are lock-tighted as the small screw going into the steering block feel out going into one of the fastest corners of the track on Sunday. Car went straight on and I was suprised only to break something on the back end (lower pod plate!). Looking forward to my home national this weekend, should be fun! All the best, Chris.
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:09 PM   #225
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Any of you guys ever tried anything to keep track lint from trashing the rear axle bearings? I utterly trashed 6 bearings this weekend, with fuzz mashed in them. I pull and clean them every run too.

I think lint and fuzz's are funneled to the bearings by the rim back plates. I'm wondering about putting a little shield on the pod using the "fingery" side of a piece of velcro on a little scrap of lexan to catch the fuzz's as they fly through there.

Anybody else got a thought?
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