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Old 04-06-2018, 09:07 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by Airwave View Post
Once you know that this car is way older than you think, it explain some of their technical choices...

Red RC ? RC Car News » Tresrey HT-1 1/10th 4WD touring car kit
except for the shocks are from the D10 which are a new design.
On my D10, the front shocks had a small amount of air in them after about 80 packs. The rear shocks are still good after over 100 packs. I did drill a small hole in the caps for no rebound.
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Old 04-06-2018, 10:38 AM
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So I drilled small 1.1 mm holes in the shock caps and rebuilt all 4 shocks. I now have perfect 0% rebound and they are super smooth with no air no matter how fast you move the shock shaft. The hole in the shock cap obviously makes all the difference.

Nice one
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Old 04-09-2018, 05:27 AM
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First weekend of actually racing the car. I run it in VTA and the race was a minor (but higher than club). Qualified 3rd after breaking in first round (punched out hinge pin insert) and second (steering link came off). This was a technical but fast track and those failures were big hits from small mistakes (same place both times).
Won the "A" starting from that 3rd. spot.
Car was fast on that layout right from the start. Only change was track width as bite came up. (CRC Black carpet)
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Old 04-12-2018, 07:33 PM
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Old 04-13-2018, 07:36 AM
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Old 04-13-2018, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Airwave View Post
Once you know that this car is way older than you think, it explain some of their technical choices...

Red RC ? RC Car News » Tresrey HT-1 1/10th 4WD touring car kit

Almost bought one of those couple years ago. eBay had a bunch of them on auctions. Just couldn’t find out enuff about the brand.
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Old 04-14-2018, 02:41 PM
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About Tresrey? From what I know this brand is japanese, it sold a lot of Durango options (in red)... I knew that they had a touring chassis but I had never seen it until now...
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Old 04-14-2018, 04:31 PM
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I ran the Ghost18 for its first race in the UK last weekend and it was brilliant. It is my wet car and was certainly tested with 4 rounds and 2 finals of some of the wettest conditions I have ever raced in. Parts of the track had water as deep as the car! The only thing that happened was the screws came loose on the motor mount and I stripped a spur and pinion. I would recommend using a longer screw than the manual suggests and using a small amount of threadlock. The handling was brilliant with 2.7 front springs, 2.6 rear, 350cst oil, 1k diff oil, 1mm roll centre shims inner front and 1mm on the steering knuckle, 1mm shim inner rear and 4mm on the rear upright, 1.5 camber all round and 1.3 roll bars. I had to add 25g (10g front left and 10g front right plus 5g centre) to get to the 1350g minimum weight and that was with water proofing and mostly steel screws. Weight balance was perfect 50/50 left to right and 49/51 front to rear. For the money I am delighted with the performance plus the support from VBC racing and MB models is great. It does feel like the ball cups pop off a little easily, despite not actually having this happen whilst racing I plan to upgrade all links to Avid 4.9 balls and Xray ball joints. Cannot recommend this car enough.
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Old 04-15-2018, 04:49 AM
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Originally Posted by JC3 View Post
Did you run it in the Nobody's Fool race at Access Hobbies?
Yes I did.
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Old 04-15-2018, 12:23 PM
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Old 04-16-2018, 02:18 AM
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Originally Posted by JC3 View Post
Awesome first outing! When you make the ball joint upgrades, it would be great if you could post the part numbers that you use. X-Ray lists a bunch of numbers. Thanks!
I used XR302663 for the ball joints but needed to trim down the ones for the steering arms, AV1027-49-TI-6 - TITANIUM 4.9MM X 6MM BALL STUDS for the steering and inner roll centre links but cut down the inner ball studs to 4mm as the eccentric diff holder stops the thread if they are any longer, AV1027-49-TI-10 - TITANIUM 4.9MM X 10MM BALL STUDS for the steering knuckles and AV1027-49-TI-8 - TITANIUM 4.9MM X 8MM BALL STUDS for the rear uprights. Note you need to add 1 mm with the titanium ballstuds over the kit ones to retain the same roll centres as the titanium ones are shorter by 1mm.

You obviously don't need to use titanium ball studs, you could always use standard steel. I just like to save weight with the titanium ones and they have proved extremely durable in some big hits.
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Old 04-16-2018, 04:30 AM
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Old 04-16-2018, 06:00 AM
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Here is leg 2 of the maiden race for my Ghost18. The wet conditions were a good test! The motor stalled off the line and unfortunately I took too tight a line into the first corner cutting up the 3rd place car. I gave back the place and I managed 3rd in this race and 5th overall in the C Final.

Given the conditions the handling was great as was the reliability. It has since had a full strip, clean, oil and rebuild ready for the next round.

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Old 04-16-2018, 07:36 AM
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Wow, you guys actually race in these conditions - awesome!
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Old 04-16-2018, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by DavidNERODease View Post
Wow, you guys actually race in these conditions - awesome!
We wouldn't get much racing if we didn't in the UK

I used to race with electrics in a small tub but it killed weight distribution. This time I opted for stripping the motor receiver and ESC and spraying with PCB lacquer then filling the cases up with an insulating gel that sets. No electrical failures in 6 runs! I was very impressed. (obvioulsy not filling the motor with gel and I only lacquered the timing board)
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