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Old 11-28-2018, 09:23 AM
  #601  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
If you can find old bars from a T3 Xray it will be a better spacing and they made a quite the selection from a 1.1 to a 1.8, they have a lazer etch on them for identification. But getting some piano wire and duplicating the bend you have in a existing bar should be very easy to duplicate, two bend and your done. After all the re-engineering you've had to do, this should be simple, lol. I did a search and the same bars are listed for the D09 as the G18, but now I wonder again. The only downfall is that the 1.4 is the biggest bar they list, so no good for you guys.

We have been messing around with getting rid of front bars and going to heavier springs, there may be something there, especially on black carpet, with high traction making tires do weird things.

If your trying to get more steering out of your usgt car, try using thinner rear hexes, sometimes a wide rear will over traction the front causing pushes.

Ron, your not old just well seasoned. I'm in that same boat. Kind of laugh when they come up with classes for 40+ or 45+......where were they 15 years ago, LOL.
Okay guys, you're breaking my heart here. lol You may be a bit older but in your distinct favor are your many years of experience! I'm learning, as I come up on my 1 year in RC anniversary, that experience is like gold when it comes to this hobby. I very much appreciate that you're willing to share so much with us.

Found some properly sized wire at the local HS so I'm gonna take a shot at bending up a couple of beefy bars. Thanks for the steering advice Gary I might try it tonight at practice.

Funny you mentioned ditching the bars. Guy I run with inadvertently ran a heat the other day with his front bar disconnected and set an impressive time. Connected it back up and it all went to hell. lol He's still scratching his head over that one.

Where and what events do you race Gary? Do you know Edward?
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Old 11-29-2018, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by JC3
Okay guys, you're breaking my heart here. lol You may be a bit older but in your distinct favor are your many years of experience! I'm learning, as I come up on my 1 year in RC anniversary, that experience is like gold when it comes to this hobby. I very much appreciate that you're willing to share so much with us.

Found some properly sized wire at the local HS so I'm gonna take a shot at bending up a couple of beefy bars. Thanks for the steering advice Gary I might try it tonight at practice.

Funny you mentioned ditching the bars. Guy I run with inadvertently ran a heat the other day with his front bar disconnected and set an impressive time. Connected it back up and it all went to hell. lol He's still scratching his head over that one.

Where and what events do you race Gary? Do you know Edward?
I guess when you do the hobby for many years you get to know everybody lol. Where and what..........I have attended many races all over North America, if Ron is the Ron I think it is, I have meet him many times at the USIC races as well. Although I haven't been to that race for a few years now. My main involvement is running in WCIC series in western Canada. Yes, I do know Edward. He is a displaced Canadian thats over the ocean, but we have talked on different media a few times. We talked a lot more when he ran VBC, but he has moved on, but he still posts lots of youtube topics.
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Old 11-30-2018, 06:43 PM
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In case anyone wants to give it a try. It's possible to get a 1.6mm front swaybar on the G18. All that is necessary is this small modification to the stabilizer mounts (pic below) and an ever so slight relief on the inside of the stabilizer strut which enables the bar to slide through it. The bar moves freely just like it should. I made the swaybar myself since VBC doesn't offer one this size.

During an overhaul, I discovered yet another bad bearing in the rear hub. That makes three for this kit so far and one in the brand new steering rack. Also, I opened up my diff for the first time since the build and discovered that it was a low on fluid (no obvious leaks) and the remaining fluid was a silvery gray nasty mess. I guess it was from the plastic gears wearing down a bit. If you haven't looked inside your diff for a while you might want to! Hopefully, the low fluid level will explain my recent handling problems.







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Old 12-01-2018, 03:58 AM
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My front bar is 1.8 and that is what you need to do to get it to fit and function properly.
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Old 12-02-2018, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone

If your trying to get more steering out of your usgt car, try using thinner rear hexes, sometimes a wide rear will over traction the front causing pushes.
I've never tried narrowing the rear of a car. Are these zero offset hubs something that you might recommend?

I'm still struggling mightily on this new track.


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Old 12-03-2018, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by JC3
I've never tried narrowing the rear of a car. Are these zero offset hubs something that you might recommend?

I'm still struggling mightily on this new track.


I believe those are 5mm hexes, you want these, -0.5 Offset Hex Wheel Hub D-05-VBC-0263, which are 4.5mm.
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Old 12-03-2018, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
I believe those are 5mm hexes, you want these, -0.5 Offset Hex Wheel Hub D-05-VBC-0263, which are 4.5mm.
The G18 comes with those 4.5mm hubs as does the D09. That is why I thought that the others were a reduction. It is a clear as mud though. lol Zero offset - from what? Ugh.

I suppose what I need are 4mm or 3.5mm hubs.
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Old 12-04-2018, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by JC3
The G18 comes with those 4.5mm hubs as does the D09. That is why I thought that the others were a reduction. It is a clear as mud though. lol Zero offset - from what? Ugh.

I suppose what I need are 4mm or 3.5mm hubs.
Well sorry, yes -0.5mm (4.5mm) are listed for the G18, these are a option for the D09, which come with 0, or 5mm. So its not going to get you narrower.........I think Xray may have 4mm hexes that MAY fit, or could be modified to fit. I know AE lists a 4mm hex, but I think the stub axle is shaped different so that might not work. Unfortunately Xray may be your only choice, and they aren't cheap to find out they are wrong.
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Old 12-04-2018, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
Well sorry, yes -0.5mm (4.5mm) are listed for the G18, these are a option for the D09, which come with 0, or 5mm. So its not going to get you narrower.........I think Xray may have 4mm hexes that MAY fit, or could be modified to fit. I know AE lists a 4mm hex, but I think the stub axle is shaped different so that might not work. Unfortunately Xray may be your only choice, and they aren't cheap to find out they are wrong.
My bad, I thought the D09 came with the 4.5's. Yeah, anyway, I'll keep my eye open for a set of 4mm's that fit. I think I'm going to focus on droop settings in practice tomorrow. I think I've got them backwards right now.
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Old 12-20-2018, 08:05 PM
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Well, the G18 is finally back in business! Due to my inexperience, and stubbornness, I wasted several recent race weekends chasing what I thought was a setup issue. It turned out that I had a set of USGT tires that, though not very old, had completely lost their grip. With a new set of tires mounted the G18 was ripping around better than ever. I could hardly believe it. Lesson learned.

Now running the new tires, I went back to a conservative base setup, camber = 1 front/2 rear, front toe 2 out, rear toe 2 in. The car felt really good but slightly bound up and scrubbing speed in the corners. I raised the roll centers front and rear using 1mm shims under the mounts all around. This really helped and lap times immediately dropped. Next I wanted to look at droop settings.

I had an excessive amount of front and rear droop dialed in from previous practices. I reduced the front droop (over ride height) to 3 and left the rear alone at 4. The car came alive and I set my fastest laps of the night and my fastest time ever on this track. My times were competitive with the fast laps from Sundays races. The track is large and sweeping and the G18 just rolls through the turns beautifully now.

Compared to my TC7.1, I find that the G18 needs a lot of droop. If you reduce droop too much, the inside rear wheel will raise up in the corners. I've seen this happen numerous times before. Lengthening the shocks and or adjusting the position on the arm made it possible to get that extra bit of much needed droop.


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Old 01-05-2019, 06:58 PM
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The WildFire Lightweight Hard Treated 7075-T6 Spool OutDrives B-02-G31460 are pretty much garbage. I tried them with two different types of VBC blades and Xray blades as well all to no avail as they all broke after one race day.



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Old 01-06-2019, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by JC3
The WildFire Lightweight Hard Treated 7075-T6 Spool OutDrives B-02-G31460 are pretty much garbage. I tried them with two different types of VBC blades and Xray blades as well all to no avail as they all broke after one race day.



The plastic spool cups are much better, it is durable and can last longer, I have used it for some years without complaint.
https://www.vbcracing.com/collection...spool-outdrive
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Old 02-02-2019, 05:44 PM
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just an update guys. I am racing at the Snowbirds and put my Ghost 18 into the VTA show. I am Q5 with hope to do better in that last run for the gold.
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Old 02-06-2019, 04:27 AM
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Originally Posted by old_dude
just an update guys. I am racing at the Snowbirds and put my Ghost 18 into the VTA show. I am Q5 with hope to do better in that last run for the gold.
After a few mistakes and a little luck I did manage to finish 6th. in the "A" I am proud of that and VBC should be also. I was a little handicapped by a older version of motor. I run a Team Scream 25.5 and it was the version 1 which is the current motor. The version 3 will soon be legal but not for that race. The newer Trinity's were faster and legal. Can't wait for my first test with the 3 against the mighty Trinity and other mfg's new motors.
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Old 02-13-2019, 06:53 PM
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Does anyone else have issues with the rear end constantly wanting to whip around when steering on power? I use 5k diff oil and run USGT on black ozite.
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