VBC Ghost18
#601
If you can find old bars from a T3 Xray it will be a better spacing and they made a quite the selection from a 1.1 to a 1.8, they have a lazer etch on them for identification. But getting some piano wire and duplicating the bend you have in a existing bar should be very easy to duplicate, two bend and your done. After all the re-engineering you've had to do, this should be simple, lol. I did a search and the same bars are listed for the D09 as the G18, but now I wonder again. The only downfall is that the 1.4 is the biggest bar they list, so no good for you guys.
We have been messing around with getting rid of front bars and going to heavier springs, there may be something there, especially on black carpet, with high traction making tires do weird things.
If your trying to get more steering out of your usgt car, try using thinner rear hexes, sometimes a wide rear will over traction the front causing pushes.
Ron, your not old just well seasoned. I'm in that same boat. Kind of laugh when they come up with classes for 40+ or 45+......where were they 15 years ago, LOL.
We have been messing around with getting rid of front bars and going to heavier springs, there may be something there, especially on black carpet, with high traction making tires do weird things.
If your trying to get more steering out of your usgt car, try using thinner rear hexes, sometimes a wide rear will over traction the front causing pushes.
Ron, your not old just well seasoned. I'm in that same boat. Kind of laugh when they come up with classes for 40+ or 45+......where were they 15 years ago, LOL.
Found some properly sized wire at the local HS so I'm gonna take a shot at bending up a couple of beefy bars. Thanks for the steering advice Gary I might try it tonight at practice.
Funny you mentioned ditching the bars. Guy I run with inadvertently ran a heat the other day with his front bar disconnected and set an impressive time. Connected it back up and it all went to hell. lol He's still scratching his head over that one.
Where and what events do you race Gary? Do you know Edward?
#602
Okay guys, you're breaking my heart here. lol You may be a bit older but in your distinct favor are your many years of experience! I'm learning, as I come up on my 1 year in RC anniversary, that experience is like gold when it comes to this hobby. I very much appreciate that you're willing to share so much with us.
Found some properly sized wire at the local HS so I'm gonna take a shot at bending up a couple of beefy bars. Thanks for the steering advice Gary I might try it tonight at practice.
Funny you mentioned ditching the bars. Guy I run with inadvertently ran a heat the other day with his front bar disconnected and set an impressive time. Connected it back up and it all went to hell. lol He's still scratching his head over that one.
Where and what events do you race Gary? Do you know Edward?
Found some properly sized wire at the local HS so I'm gonna take a shot at bending up a couple of beefy bars. Thanks for the steering advice Gary I might try it tonight at practice.
Funny you mentioned ditching the bars. Guy I run with inadvertently ran a heat the other day with his front bar disconnected and set an impressive time. Connected it back up and it all went to hell. lol He's still scratching his head over that one.
Where and what events do you race Gary? Do you know Edward?
#603
In case anyone wants to give it a try. It's possible to get a 1.6mm front swaybar on the G18. All that is necessary is this small modification to the stabilizer mounts (pic below) and an ever so slight relief on the inside of the stabilizer strut which enables the bar to slide through it. The bar moves freely just like it should. I made the swaybar myself since VBC doesn't offer one this size.
During an overhaul, I discovered yet another bad bearing in the rear hub. That makes three for this kit so far and one in the brand new steering rack. Also, I opened up my diff for the first time since the build and discovered that it was a low on fluid (no obvious leaks) and the remaining fluid was a silvery gray nasty mess. I guess it was from the plastic gears wearing down a bit. If you haven't looked inside your diff for a while you might want to! Hopefully, the low fluid level will explain my recent handling problems.
During an overhaul, I discovered yet another bad bearing in the rear hub. That makes three for this kit so far and one in the brand new steering rack. Also, I opened up my diff for the first time since the build and discovered that it was a low on fluid (no obvious leaks) and the remaining fluid was a silvery gray nasty mess. I guess it was from the plastic gears wearing down a bit. If you haven't looked inside your diff for a while you might want to! Hopefully, the low fluid level will explain my recent handling problems.
Last edited by JC3; 11-30-2018 at 06:55 PM.
#605
I'm still struggling mightily on this new track.
#606
#607
I suppose what I need are 4mm or 3.5mm hubs.
#608
Well sorry, yes -0.5mm (4.5mm) are listed for the G18, these are a option for the D09, which come with 0, or 5mm. So its not going to get you narrower.........I think Xray may have 4mm hexes that MAY fit, or could be modified to fit. I know AE lists a 4mm hex, but I think the stub axle is shaped different so that might not work. Unfortunately Xray may be your only choice, and they aren't cheap to find out they are wrong.
#609
Well sorry, yes -0.5mm (4.5mm) are listed for the G18, these are a option for the D09, which come with 0, or 5mm. So its not going to get you narrower.........I think Xray may have 4mm hexes that MAY fit, or could be modified to fit. I know AE lists a 4mm hex, but I think the stub axle is shaped different so that might not work. Unfortunately Xray may be your only choice, and they aren't cheap to find out they are wrong.
#610
Well, the G18 is finally back in business! Due to my inexperience, and stubbornness, I wasted several recent race weekends chasing what I thought was a setup issue. It turned out that I had a set of USGT tires that, though not very old, had completely lost their grip. With a new set of tires mounted the G18 was ripping around better than ever. I could hardly believe it. Lesson learned.
Now running the new tires, I went back to a conservative base setup, camber = 1 front/2 rear, front toe 2 out, rear toe 2 in. The car felt really good but slightly bound up and scrubbing speed in the corners. I raised the roll centers front and rear using 1mm shims under the mounts all around. This really helped and lap times immediately dropped. Next I wanted to look at droop settings.
I had an excessive amount of front and rear droop dialed in from previous practices. I reduced the front droop (over ride height) to 3 and left the rear alone at 4. The car came alive and I set my fastest laps of the night and my fastest time ever on this track. My times were competitive with the fast laps from Sundays races. The track is large and sweeping and the G18 just rolls through the turns beautifully now.
Compared to my TC7.1, I find that the G18 needs a lot of droop. If you reduce droop too much, the inside rear wheel will raise up in the corners. I've seen this happen numerous times before. Lengthening the shocks and or adjusting the position on the arm made it possible to get that extra bit of much needed droop.
Now running the new tires, I went back to a conservative base setup, camber = 1 front/2 rear, front toe 2 out, rear toe 2 in. The car felt really good but slightly bound up and scrubbing speed in the corners. I raised the roll centers front and rear using 1mm shims under the mounts all around. This really helped and lap times immediately dropped. Next I wanted to look at droop settings.
I had an excessive amount of front and rear droop dialed in from previous practices. I reduced the front droop (over ride height) to 3 and left the rear alone at 4. The car came alive and I set my fastest laps of the night and my fastest time ever on this track. My times were competitive with the fast laps from Sundays races. The track is large and sweeping and the G18 just rolls through the turns beautifully now.
Compared to my TC7.1, I find that the G18 needs a lot of droop. If you reduce droop too much, the inside rear wheel will raise up in the corners. I've seen this happen numerous times before. Lengthening the shocks and or adjusting the position on the arm made it possible to get that extra bit of much needed droop.
#611
The WildFire Lightweight Hard Treated 7075-T6 Spool OutDrives B-02-G31460 are pretty much garbage. I tried them with two different types of VBC blades and Xray blades as well all to no avail as they all broke after one race day.
#612
Tech Initiate
https://www.vbcracing.com/collection...spool-outdrive
#614
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)