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Old 08-28-2018, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
This is not unique the VBC, there are several manufacturers that do the same thing, some even substitute many of the machined aluminum components for plastic parts, items such as suspension bridges, bulkheads, motor mounts.
Thanks Gary. As I said, I didn't know that this was a thing in RC, at least not to the extent it goes to with the G18. If I had let what people were trying to tell me months ago sink in it would have changed my attitude towards the kit. I get it now thanks to you and some other similarly knowledgeable and experienced RC'ers. The G18 is what it is. I'll try to make the best of it and learn what I can along the way.

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Old 08-28-2018, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JJ100179 View Post
Why not add two additional M3 threads to the mount and drill corresponding holes for countersunk screws in the chassis plate? I think this will solve the bending issues.
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That's certainly a good idea and would be plenty strong. I think I'm going to take a slightly different approach and attempt to fill the gap by brazing with an aluminum rod. I've always wanted to try that and I think this will be a good application for it. I bought the rods today, $3. Just have to figure out how to fixture it so the hole spacing doesn't change after the heating, cooling, and addition of the extra material.

I went back and took a closer look at the D10 mounts that I bought. Thought I could use the RR in place of the kit RF. It's wider though so I gave up on that idea.
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Old 08-28-2018, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by JC3 View Post
That's certainly a good idea and would be plenty strong. I think I'm going to take a slightly different approach and attempt to fill the gap by brazing with an aluminum rod. I've always wanted to try that and I think this will be a good application for it. I bought the rods today, $3. Just have to figure out how to fixture it so the hole spacing doesn't change after the heating, cooling, and addition of the extra material.

I went back and took a closer look at the D10 mounts that I bought. Thought I could use the RR in place of the kit RF. It's wider though so I gave up on that idea.
I... I mean I want to see the result. But I don't think I can recommend this. At minimum you're going to do some fun things to the color of the anodized sections. Most of the dyes used for anodization are temperature sensitive, and the resultant colors are unpredictable. Some in the paintball community found the colors desirable... They didn't work for me. If I were to try using that alumalloy stuff, I'd be sure to heat the entire part evenly, and not restrain it to hard. If you fight expansion, it will shrink in in unpleasant ways afterwords. Good luck! show us the results.

The solution I'd use is one drilled hole, one m3 screw, a spacer, and a locknut would back up the suspension mount and prevent that movement. But we'll see if it becomes an issue for me later.

The question I'd ask, is what do you want to break next? On my TC4, I broke half a dozen drive pins, which definitely saved other parts of the drivetrain. As I understand it, on the T4, instead of breaking drive pins, you bend halfshafts. And... to that point, where would you rather the damage happen? I'm not telling you to not make a stronger part, or back up the part so it won't bend, just think about where those stresses go next.

Since we were talking about companies re-using parts. Tamiya uses the same suspension mounts in 24 cars. Their standup transmission is used in at least three cars, the TRF201, XV01, and FF03. And the TA06 differentials show up in how many cars?
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Old 08-29-2018, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by JC3 View Post
That's certainly a good idea and would be plenty strong. I think I'm going to take a slightly different approach and attempt to fill the gap by brazing with an aluminum rod. I've always wanted to try that and I think this will be a good application for it. I bought the rods today, $3. Just have to figure out how to fixture it so the hole spacing doesn't change after the heating, cooling, and addition of the extra material.

I went back and took a closer look at the D10 mounts that I bought. Thought I could use the RR in place of the kit RF. It's wider though so I gave up on that idea.
Be interesting to see how that turns out. The only thing I would suggest is the run the screws into the existing holes before you start, just to keep the hole clean. If you're really adventurous you could try to braze up the insert holes too, and fix the insert blowout issue. The car is going to be the the G18/JC3 pretty soon. LOL
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Old 08-29-2018, 10:04 AM
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Frankenmount lives! Came out great, not perfect but better than expected for a first try. Super strong, I've twisted it and attempted to bend it. Took about 5 minutes to braze and 15 minutes to finish it up with a file. Still looks like hell since I don't have my Dremel handy and I want to make it look a bit better.

I didn't bother to fixture it, just went for it. I haven't tried it on the chassis yet but it looks perfectly fine. Details and some pics later.

Gary, now that I've tried it and know how it works, brazing up the holes in the mounts is definitely doable!

Update: Fits the chassis perfectly. Inserts are a bit tight but I think I know why.

Update update: The insert holes did indeed shrink by about .15mm but only in one dimension, height. I had to Dremel a bit of material out and finish with some fine sandpaper. Perfect fit now.







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Last edited by JC3; 08-29-2018 at 06:25 PM. Reason: Added update and pics
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Old 09-11-2018, 04:37 AM
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Last weekend, before another run with my G18, I have checked suspension and shocks. Doing so, I came upon something I didn't realize in the past:
During checking ride height, I have discovered that the rear dampers are fully extended wehen car is race ready (they are not noticeable compressed by car weight). On the contrary, front dampers are compressed to some extend, even with stiffer springs than oput of the box. I have installed stiffer types sometimes ago to get more grip in the rear. Was wondering if the car is really that front-heavy and if that an expanation for the continually missin grear grip. I was looking for some softer springs for the rear shocks, but according to my research, the softest type available is already installed.

Next step was dismounting and checking rear shocks. Didn't find anything bad, so I reinstalled them. I have mentioned during this process, that suspension has to be raised some mm in order to attach shock to lower ball head. Ball heads were fixed in outer posiiton of rear as per manual. Was wondering if this can be that good, in other words if shocks are limiting downward travel and not chassis or the droop screws?
Switching lower rear balls to inner fixing points does not seem to fix anything for better performance. It raised the right height to an unacceptable value which cannot be balanced by reducing spring load. But the new, more steeper, shock position seems to soften things up and I finally get some precompression for the shocks. Nonetheless I was curious and tried the car as it was (approx. 7,5mm ride height rear, approx. 5mm in the front). Result was, as expected, disappointing. Car was extremly nervous and had nearly no grip in the rear.
As a result I need a plan, which can be as follows:

- Switch lower rear ball head back to outer position
- Get some new and longer (approx. 4-5mm) shocks to replace the too-short original types.
- Try to adjust the new shocks with suitable springs to get some precompression and correct ride height

Before I realize this, I would like to ask if someones G18 has similar problems or characteristics as mine. Maybe I have overseen something or loose orientation in the setup?

Thanks in advance!

Michael
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Old 09-11-2018, 05:35 AM
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I believe the recommended shock lengths in the manual are wrong. Crank out the ball end on the shock shaft so that about 2 mm of thread is showing. I run the kit springs in VTA and find that they are pretty much spot on. I just move shock position based on what the car is doing.
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Old 09-11-2018, 06:46 AM
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Okay, crank out the shock ends is another possibiliy I didn't think about. Will definitely try this. Thanks!
Do you have any precompression on the rear shocks with your setup and weight distribution?

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Old 09-11-2018, 09:31 AM
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I had the same problem, no front droop and ride height adjustment issues because the shocks were too short. I moved them to the inner position on the lower arm. Problem solved and for now the handling is great on black carpet. I may experiment with moving out the shock ends and putting the shocks back to the outer hole on the arm, but I like the way it feels so leaving it for now.
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Old 09-12-2018, 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by JJ100179 View Post
Okay, crank out the shock ends is another possibiliy I didn't think about. Will definitely try this. Thanks!
Do you have any precompression on the rear shocks with your setup and weight distribution?

Regards,
Michael
With chassis elevated (tires not touching) the springs are just free. Fronts have a slight preload. A VTA car weighs 1450g so it is the heaviest T/C class. That slight preload is to keep it a 5.5mm ride height.
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Old 09-13-2018, 06:36 AM
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@all: thanks again!
Comparing your answers with my efforts, I think I’m on the way to get the things solve, which is very satisfying for a newbie as me. I was able to grab a complete set of 8 pairs Ride RC big bore short springs for little money (approx. 10 €). They have spring rates ranging from 0,2 up to 0,3 kgf/mm, which is a great “downsizing” complement for the original SMJ springs, as they start at a rate of 0,28.
I will do some try and error and keep you updated.

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Old Yesterday, 12:34 PM
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I'm curious about the steering assembly with this chassis! I can't figure out how it's supposed to work! It looks interesting, but the 5x9 bearings...and how both pieces are supposed to fit, has me worried!
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Old Yesterday, 12:37 PM
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Have you bought it yet? It's a rail type system. The curved bit, rides between three bearings.
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Old Yesterday, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Texas Postman View Post
I'm curious about the steering assembly with this chassis! I can't figure out how it's supposed to work! It looks interesting, but the 5x9 bearings...and how both pieces are supposed to fit, has me worried!
It works quite well. It does however require some attention every now and then to keep the rails clean and to properly adjust the center bearing.
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