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Breaking In BRUSHED Motor (Wet Or Dry)?

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Breaking In BRUSHED Motor (Wet Or Dry)?

Old 02-11-2018, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
best way to take 2 important steps step #1 walk to the kitchen and throw it in the brushed motor in garbage next and final step#2 order a brushless system.
If my thoughts are right here, Nickerz is working with in the rules of a spec class and has to stick with that Traxxas motor but, I can be wrong, I know how.
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Old 02-11-2018, 08:55 PM
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Brushed motor break-in is only done to be sure the brush's are "radiused" properly to the commutator! And yes, that has been done since the 70's with water. Usually at fairly low voltage--3-5 volts--and only long enough to radius the brush's to fit the comm! Depending on how hard the brush material is--it can take from a few seconds to several minutes. Run the motor in water for 30 seconds and then INSPECT the brush's and the track on the comm. If you see the brush fits the comm well and has a complete true track all the way across the comm--you're done. Clean out the motor--blow it dry--oil it and go race!
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Old 02-12-2018, 06:39 AM
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One of the problems with the Traxxas motors is the inconsistency, and the other is knowing with a sealed motor when the brushes are fully seated. sometimes they change tone when they are seated, sometimes not.
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:39 AM
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OK, so straight from 1999 (it's about time this came in handy)

You'll need-
Brasso, Marvel Oil, Dremel, Cup O' Water (tap water is just fine, what I always used) a fresh can of cheapo brake cleaner/motor cleaner, 5v power or 4 cell nicd/nimh pack

--- When motor is brand new out of package only ---
Mix 50% Brasso 50% Marvel Oil - We call that 'bushing buster'
Apply bushing buster to both bushings and spin in dremel, slow at first, nothing over 12-15k at the end, slow, steady speed REAPPLY bushing buster constantly to bushings during process - should take a minute or two, put the buster on, spin slow, it'll turn grey and spin away, add more spin for a few more seconds again, add more, it's a mess, but it works like a charm

Once you are happy that the inside of the bushings are polished up as much as you think you can get them (do not spend all day on this) use lots of bearing oil to try to cut the brasso thinner and thoroughly clean whole motor with spray, reapply oil, spin w/dremel for 3 seconds, clean and oil again

A coffee cup or similar of water (really, really doesn't matter if it is pure H2O or just tap water, really, there is just plain no way the electrons are gonna even try traversing the water when there is copper in there) dip motor whilst running @ 5V/4 cell nickel (I would never use a Lipo here, 1S or otherwise, during motor break-in there are many current spikes, Lipo hates that) 30sec-1min at a time, pull out, clean with spray, reoil bushings, dip again until satisfied

Now if you can find "comm drops" (good luck with that) you would run the motor after polishing bushings "dry" - but only with "comm drops" for a couple minutes, constant reapplication of comm drops - before water dipping, and reduce water dipping time vs no comm drops

Most "mabuchi" style closed motors have the brush mounted directly to the "spring" arm, so as the brushes wear down, spring tension would be reduced and rpm will climb, but if the brushes wear from heat/use, the brushes will get all burnt and the effect will be limited

So, that's how we used to do it, I have been accused of cheating more than once in TCS racing for simply doing what I've outlined above, if done properly it can help the motor performance significantly
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Old 03-20-2018, 02:44 AM
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Water dipping brushed motors works. We all did it back in the day. Did all my aircraft motors as well. Never thought Id see it come back! Eurotruck class is exploding and here we go again!!! We even have guys using comm drops! Bahhhhhhh🤪
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Old 03-20-2018, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Vintagedriver View Post
Water dipping brushed motors works. We all did it back in the day. Did all my aircraft motors as well. Never thought Id see it come back! Eurotruck class is exploding and here we go again!!! We even have guys using comm drops! Bahhhhhhh🤪
Thats why my club went to hand out motors.
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Old 03-23-2018, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
best way to take 2 important steps step #1 walk to the kitchen and throw it in the brushed motor in garbage next and final step#2 order a brushless system.
Brushless is for the technically inept. Appropriate for closed can motor peasants.

Excuse me while I medicate myself with ethanol. I need to do a system restore on my brain so I can forget 99% of BS people sprouted out their asses.

"Break in for an hour"? I swear... I see the dumbest advice on this forum...
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Old 03-23-2018, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by KoroKoro View Post
Excuse me while I medicate myself with ethanol. I need to do a system restore on my brain so I can forget 99% of BS people sprouted out their asses.

"Break in for an hour"? I swear... I see the dumbest advice on this forum...
Actually depending on the sealed motor involved an hour could be correct, especially if you're not water dipping it and you're on low voltage and especially tamiya style sealed cans like to wear the brushes down a lot.

See, the brush is mounted to a spring style arm, so the longer you break it in on a motor like that, the less spring tension you get. I don't recommend wearing the brushes down that far on a 12T titan, but I would do that to a Tamiya kit motor (eurotruck or tt02 style). The reasoning for that is on a mabuchi style motor there is just plain no torque regardless, so you need all the rpm you can get, the titan 12T obviously is a whole different animal on that front.

So, yes, there is a very good, physics based reason to break in a sealed motor for a long time. I spent the late 90's and early 00's working with these things on fantom dynos.

No one pay any attention to "korokoro" - he obviously has no experience in this matter or has absolutely no scientific method to his racing program
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Old 03-23-2018, 12:23 PM
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I have NEVER seen any motor that could be broken in for an HOUR in water!!! And I've broken in hundreds from the old igerashi days to current days in slot racing!! Go ahead--try an hour!! Then go buy another motor because you won't have any brush's left!!
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Old 03-23-2018, 12:28 PM
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This is how I broke my 12T in and was phenomenal!

FieroMans titan 12t secrets
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Old 03-23-2018, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Adamska27 View Post
Actually depending on the sealed motor involved an hour could be correct, especially if you're not water dipping it and you're on low voltage and especially tamiya style sealed cans like to wear the brushes down a lot.
"especially if you're not water dipping"
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Old 03-23-2018, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim Neja View Post
I have NEVER seen any motor that could be broken in for an HOUR in water!!! And I've broken in hundreds from the old igerashi days to current days in slot racing!! Go ahead--try an hour!! Then go buy another motor because you won't have any brush's left!!
We're just not getting crazy enough. You're supposed to solder a wire shunt between the two motor tabs and then turn the motor backwards at the highest RPM you can with a drill press submerged in a 5 gallon bucket of water until the shunt starts to boil and unsolders itself from the heat. Then you go get a new motor and wonder why you thought I was being serious for a second.
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Old 03-23-2018, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Adamska27 View Post
Actually depending on the sealed motor involved an hour could be correct, especially if you're not water dipping it and you're on low voltage and especially tamiya style sealed cans like to wear the brushes down a lot.

See, the brush is mounted to a spring style arm, so the longer you break it in on a motor like that, the less spring tension you get. I don't recommend wearing the brushes down that far on a 12T titan, but I would do that to a Tamiya kit motor (eurotruck or tt02 style). The reasoning for that is on a mabuchi style motor there is just plain no torque regardless, so you need all the rpm you can get, the titan 12T obviously is a whole different animal on that front.

So, yes, there is a very good, physics based reason to break in a sealed motor for a long time. I spent the late 90's and early 00's working with these things on fantom dynos.

No one pay any attention to "korokoro" - he obviously has no experience in this matter or has absolutely no scientific method to his racing program
Wet at half voltage for at least an hour
I obviously have no experience in this matter. Or no scientific method? HAHAHAHA
The purpose of breaking in is to seat the brushes (they are already come radiused from the sintering process) If you think a wet break in for an hour is correct, then you've been doing it wrong for the last 20 years. Ever wondered why you had such poor brush life?
Besides, who breaks in a motor at full voltage? Haha it goes without saying.

I dont care if you believe me or not. Doesnt change the fact that you're wrong.
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Old 03-23-2018, 05:28 PM
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delete

Last edited by Tamiyadan; 04-17-2019 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 03-24-2018, 02:42 PM
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It all depends on how hard the brushes are. The tamiya 540j changed many times over the years, and certainly the brushes changed as well. I remember some motors needed just 2-3mins at 5v in water, but others were much longer.
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