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Understanding F1 Tuning: Letís break it down

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Understanding F1 Tuning: Letís break it down

Old 07-20-2018, 09:04 PM
  #391  
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Noticed this big time with the fronts. I also noticed even gray carpet is much more forgiving with setup window.

Car is is very stable now. Going to experiment to make it a bit more nimble. Ordeal is I want to keep high rear grip at same time. May just start with the side tubes and less castor.
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Old 07-21-2018, 09:46 AM
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Does anyone know who makes metal replacement front pivot balls for the RC10F6?
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Old 07-23-2018, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by aft53 View Post
Does anyone know who makes metal replacement front pivot balls for the RC10F6?
Use the T5 shock pivot balls. https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...SABEgKIRvD_BwE
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Old 07-23-2018, 11:22 AM
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Thanks. I just noticed that the RC10F6 package comes with 8 pivot balls. 6 look like the ones you suggested but 2 do not have the lips on one side. Are there any replacements for them?
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Old 07-23-2018, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by aft53 View Post
Thanks. I just noticed that the RC10F6 package comes with 8 pivot balls. 6 look like the ones you suggested but 2 do not have the lips on one side. Are there any replacements for them?
Those would be for the lower pivot balls. I still run the delrin ones as they don't have any load to deform them and work well with the kingpin. I replaced the inner 4 as they literally crush and expand when you tighten the screws down and did the outer upper links just because I could.
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Old 07-24-2018, 09:29 AM
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.

Last edited by phatboislim; 07-27-2018 at 08:39 AM.
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Old 07-24-2018, 09:01 PM
  #397  
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Does anybody have any good feedback on what Shimizu Tires to use for an F1 on a high bite carpet track. Iím guessing ita best to go with F104 style tires
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Old 07-25-2018, 06:52 AM
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571/572
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Old 07-25-2018, 07:53 AM
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574 fronts, glued sidewalls and TINY bit of outer tread surface, 1/16" if possible, full sauce
575 rears full sauce, if too much grip I switch to 572 rears but can get too loose with spooled diff
This is working for me
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Old 07-25-2018, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA View Post
574 fronts, glued sidewalls and TINY bit of outer tread surface, 1/16" if possible, full sauce
575 rears full sauce, if too much grip I switch to 572 rears but can get too loose with spooled diff
This is working for me
Totally agree!
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Old 07-25-2018, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA View Post
574 fronts, glued sidewalls and TINY bit of outer tread surface, 1/16" if possible, full sauce
575 rears full sauce, if too much grip I switch to 572 rears but can get too loose with spooled diff
This is working for me
Thanks, I will try it for next race. Other racers have recomended I try these tires...but gah, have to hand glue carefully
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Old 08-27-2018, 02:53 PM
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Chassis weights!
What are people generally aiming for when using brass etc weights on their cars? Even weight distribution? Particular front / rear weight bias? Or aiming for a particular change in handling characteristics?
I'm keen to know some more black magic!!!
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Old 08-27-2018, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Holmestead View Post
Chassis weights!
What are people generally aiming for when using brass etc weights on their cars? Even weight distribution? Particular front / rear weight bias? Or aiming for a particular change in handling characteristics?
I'm keen to know some more black magic!!!
mostly 1050g min....

some in front usually helps steering, some on pod can help rear grip
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Old 08-27-2018, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Holmestead View Post
Chassis weights!
What are people generally aiming for when using brass etc weights on their cars? Even weight distribution? Particular front / rear weight bias? Or aiming for a particular change in handling characteristics?
I'm keen to know some more black magic!!!
Probably the biggest thing to realize is that weight will make the car more stable where you put it. For example, if you put weight in the nose of the car, the reaction will slow down. At the same time, it will probably pick up more steering, especially on power. Putting weight on the undersides of the lower suspension arms on the front can help fight traction roll. (Note: I'm sure I will be shouted down for this, but I feel like a lot of the aerodynamicists out there who seem to find big differences in wings will find that a lot of the characteristics they attribute to the wings correspond to the weight of the wing. I can put a Serpent front wing on my car, all the sudden it seems like there is more steering/reaction. Tamiya F60 wing calms it down. Guess what? The tamiya wing is a good bit heavier.)

A famous incident occurred at the Tamiya nationals a few years back. The cars were required to run the kit F104 rear tires, which stunk out loud. The guy who eventually won put what looked like 50g A SIDE on the little radio component trays on the sides of his car. So like 4 ounces on the car, but it made the car incredible. Everyone scrambled to find lead. I put as much as I had on my car. It did 2 things: made the car more stable, so much so I was looking for steering. It also improved tire wear, as the car was no longer sliding the rear tires. So there can be an optimal weight for a car based on things like tire selection. Some guys say lightest is always best, but that is not true.

Different weight batteries can be similar. I have had an LCG short pack make my previously calm car start hiking tires on black carpet. On asphalt, going to a normal short pack helped make my car easier to drive in lower traction conditions. However, when traction was up, going to the LCG pack made it feel perfect in terms of reaction and it had better acceleration.


Rick Vessell and Fredp1 like this.
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Old 08-27-2018, 05:59 PM
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rob, on black carpet, are you still using an LCG pack?
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