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Understanding F1 Tuning: Letís break it down > Understanding F1 Tuning: Letís break it down
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Understanding F1 Tuning: Letís break it down

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Old 01-30-2018, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
80% of F1 is tires and tire prep once the car is set. Setting up a car on bad tires is a waste of time, you will be fighting the track instead of dialing in your car.
So much this.

The track I race at is a parking lot asphalt track with varying degrees of grip depending on time of year, temp, etc. We get 1 practice day a month to go along with 2 race sundays.

I spent half the summer fighting setup - springs, oils, ride heights, etc. Using the xray helper, reading factory guys setup sheets, all kinds of things. Very little success.

I was about to give up when I went over and asked one of the fast guys for some help (which I should have done sooner-- they are all super nice, i just have social issues ). We were running different manufacturers, but similar setups. We took the tires off of his car, put them on mine -- everything worked. Just shy of a podium that day.

It was frustrating because the setup changes didn't seem to be having an effect at all. Like it was some special magic I didn't know about.

Friggin tires man...
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Old 01-30-2018, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mstrfahrenheit View Post
So much this.

The track I race at is a parking lot asphalt track with varying degrees of grip depending on time of year, temp, etc. We get 1 practice day a month to go along with 2 race sundays.

I spent half the summer fighting setup - springs, oils, ride heights, etc. Using the xray helper, reading factory guys setup sheets, all kinds of things. Very little success.

I was about to give up when I went over and asked one of the fast guys for some help (which I should have done sooner-- they are all super nice, i just have social issues ). We were running different manufacturers, but similar setups. We took the tires off of his car, put them on mine -- everything worked. Just shy of a podium that day.

It was frustrating because the setup changes didn't seem to be having an effect at all. Like it was some special magic I didn't know about.

Friggin tires man...
All about tires my man all about tires... I was on the same boat till few of my buddies lend me a use tires and walla its was freaking dialed. New set of F1 tires don't work for crap as the sidewall is stiff as heck... Key is sand it down enough where the side wall of the tires is rounded. and WD40 the crap out of the tires before race days. It's guarantee you will have traction galore and it does not matter what tires you use follow this break in steps and it will be cherry.
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Old 01-30-2018, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by GT CRUSING View Post
One thing I tried was adding a T wing element to My Xray F1 car just like the 2017 season

At first, it was a joke amongs friends to the new F1 rules and in my club, there is freedom amongst the rules for wings and everybody has their own wings.

But at first, this was not working for me as it actually lowered my lap times. Then I lowered the rear wing just slightly under the T wing from the very top and it had some performance benefits

The T wing kept the car very stable in straight line and prevented traction rolling in tight hairpin turns. Only need to add a Halo, lol
And equally important is the fact that we need a full size photo of that body. Immediately!
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Old 01-30-2018, 11:10 PM
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Default tires....

I totally agree with Tires as number one tuning.

I used to hate driving F1 even though I had plenty of F1 kits (they look cool).

This was largely because getting the right tires was seriously hard, and ultimately f103 type foam tires works best (most of the time).

Recently, I tried (on the advice of my LHS) to try Ride GR tires and they transformed my opinion of F1.

F1 is now my favorite RC car class, simply because I've found tires that work so very well. the other tuning simply fine tunes the car (actually, they affect the car so little, I sometimes don't bother).

when the car understeers, I use a small front wing. when it over steers, I use a smaller front wing(f103 type)

If you haven't tried the Ride GR tires, give yourself a break and try it. I've found it works better then Volante, sweep, the old ride XR, Tamiya and many others.
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Old 01-31-2018, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by foampervert View Post
I totally agree with Tires as number one tuning.

I used to hate driving F1 even though I had plenty of F1 kits (they look cool).

This was largely because getting the right tires was seriously hard, and ultimately f103 type foam tires works best (most of the time).

Recently, I tried (on the advice of my LHS) to try Ride GR tires and they transformed my opinion of F1.

F1 is now my favorite RC car class, simply because I've found tires that work so very well. the other tuning simply fine tunes the car (actually, they affect the car so little, I sometimes don't bother).

when the car understeers, I use a small front wing. when it over steers, I use a smaller front wing(f103 type)

If you haven't tried the Ride GR tires, give yourself a break and try it. I've found it works better then Volante, sweep, the old ride XR, Tamiya and many others.
TQ has 2 different fronts , which ones do U recommend?
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Old 01-31-2018, 08:40 AM
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Default Try gr

Originally Posted by idbdoug View Post
TQ has 2 different fronts , which ones do U recommend?
idbdoug
Gr-x = slightly harder compound, great if your car is massively oversteering
I use GR cos it's easier to drive with
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Old 01-31-2018, 09:09 PM
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I've just tried the Ride GR'a, and the grip is good. They feel consistemt through the run too, even on a hot day here in Aussie, track temp was around 60 deg C.
I've got an X1 '16, and I'm just looking for a bit more turn mid corner and corner exit.
Deciding whether to reduce caster to 6 from 9, or to remove the front chassis brace.
Corner entry feels good, and power down is also good.
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Old 02-02-2018, 10:32 PM
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Hello what is differenc within Ride R1 and GR tires thanks
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Old 02-03-2018, 07:34 AM
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Could someone explain what functions the various shims on the king pins do? The manuals say they control droop and ride height, but don't explain what adjustments to make.
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Old 02-03-2018, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by GerryH View Post
Could someone explain what functions the various shims on the king pins do? The manuals say they control droop and ride height, but don't explain what adjustments to make.
Droop:
The shims under the steering knuckle, on top of the lower arm control droop.
LESS shims: more droop
MORE shims: less droop

Ride height can be affected if you are at zero droop, and remove shims, allowing more travel.

Ride height:
On car with springs under the lower arm (most cars), shims under the spring raise ride height.
LESS or Zero shims: lower ride height
MORE shims: higher ride height.

Note that if you have shims under the spring, and then remove them to lower ride height, droop will be affected as well (increase droop). The total number of shims on the kingpin should be kept the same when changing ride height.

When changing droop, the shims can be added/removed without regard to the total number of shims.

Some cars also have shims above the knuckle in between the knuckle and upper arm. This affects camber gain and roll center.

Shims on top of knuckle, no other changes:
LESS: flatter arm, less camber gain, lower roll center

MORE: more angled upper arm, more camber gain, higher roll center

Total number of shims should remain constant - place removed shims on top of arm to maintain other settings.
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Old 02-03-2018, 02:10 PM
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IF it's racing cars---TIRES are nearly EVERYTHING!! Start with the right tires--everything else will get easier!!
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Old 02-03-2018, 02:49 PM
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The TRF101 has 3 hole for each end of the side ink I'm running the rear in the middle and the front in the outside hole a per a post from last year. My car is great and my lap times are coming down, but what are the pro's and cons of each position of the side link.



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Old 02-03-2018, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by texastc View Post
The TRF101 has 3 hole for each end of the side ink I'm running the rear in the middle and the front in the outside hole a per a post from last year. My car is great and my lap times are coming down, but what are the pro's and cons of each position of the side link.
If you move the spring with the link, it gets stiffer as you go outward and softer as you go in toward the chassis, assuming the same spring.

As far as moving the links keeping them parallel, I have tried that with the 101 and the speedpassion car, but I don't know if there is a big difference. The links should deflect more as the chassis rolls in the outside hole, but, again, i don't have many answers.

If you angle the links so they angle in from the pod (like outer hole on pod, middle hole on chassis), that will induce some rear steer into the car. I also felt like it made a little more traction too.
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Old 02-05-2018, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
If you move the spring with the link, it gets stiffer as you go outward and softer as you go in toward the chassis, assuming the same spring.

As far as moving the links keeping them parallel, I have tried that with the 101 and the speedpassion car, but I don't know if there is a big difference. The links should deflect more as the chassis rolls in the outside hole, but, again, i don't have many answers.

If you angle the links so they angle in from the pod (like outer hole on pod, middle hole on chassis), that will induce some rear steer into the car. I also felt like it made a little more traction too.
To add to what Rob listed above, with the links 'backwards' like you have (middle hole on pod, outer hole on chassis) this also induces rear steer but the opposite of the what Rob listed. "Toed out" like you have will turn the rear of the car into the corner. This will make the car more stable or want to push. We mostly run the links "toed in" to get rear steer to turn the rear of the car out of the corner. This makes the rear want to rotate more.
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Old 02-05-2018, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Nuno Gancho View Post
Hello what is differenc within Ride R1 and GR tires thanks
GR tires are two generations newer.
For the front they, GR, have a better compound and insert that allows for much more steering


Asphalt:
For the rear the Gr have a tiny bit more grip but wear out super quick.

Until Volante came out I always ran R1 rear and Gr front

Now I run Volante Soft rears and medium hard fronts, or GR fronts
Any softer volante front and you will have more steering than you usually want

the Volante handle similar but do not roll over in the corner as much, sidewall rolls on the rim with other tires
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