Understanding F1 Tuning: Let’s break it down
#211

I just ran my F1 for the first time and while everything was pretty good I have a question. First, the track was fresh asphalt. I used sauce on the tires which were Shimizu 572 rear and Tamiya front. The car turns in very hard and fast. I have adjusted the transmitter to reduce the dual rate and increase the steering exponential. This helped to a point. I ended up at 75% DR and -25% EXP. I still felt it turned in too hard and fast for my driving style. Should I try to increase the caster next? What about adding more toe-out?
#212

What car do you have?
#213

I have an Associated RC10 F6.
#214

Also, should I try a less aggressive front wing?
#216
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)

I just ran my F1 for the first time and while everything was pretty good I have a question. First, the track was fresh asphalt. I used sauce on the tires which were Shimizu 572 rear and Tamiya front. The car turns in very hard and fast. I have adjusted the transmitter to reduce the dual rate and increase the steering exponential. This helped to a point. I ended up at 75% DR and -25% EXP. I still felt it turned in too hard and fast for my driving style. Should I try to increase the caster next? What about adding more toe-out?
#218

I second this. Often times just a change in saucing, whether it’s the amount used or the soak time, can make a massive difference. This affects all classes, but especially F1. Tires and mechanical grip are king.
#219
Tech Apprentice

I just ran my F1 for the first time and while everything was pretty good I have a question. First, the track was fresh asphalt. I used sauce on the tires which were Shimizu 572 rear and Tamiya front. The car turns in very hard and fast. I have adjusted the transmitter to reduce the dual rate and increase the steering exponential. This helped to a point. I ended up at 75% DR and -25% EXP. I still felt it turned in too hard and fast for my driving style. Should I try to increase the caster next? What about adding more toe-out?
The M3 locknut used at the Chassis brace doesn't do the job well. I find these locknuts at left and right chassis brace will limit the rolling of the chassis at the pivot ball. I end up replacing the locknut with plain nut (Team Associated #91477, or any other plain nut should do the job). Please add some thread lock to keep the plain nuts in position.
I find 100,000cst oil for the damper tubers work for me right. I know it sounds a bit crazy on using 100,000cst but may be worthy to try and see if that fits you or not.
The kit rear shock spring is too heavy/hard for me. I am now using rear spring of 9lbs and I get good stability for my F6 rear end.
By far, I haven't touched on the dual rate and steering exponential is -20%. My camber is of - 1.5 degree, castor at 9 degree and front toe out at 1.5 deg.
Hope it's helpful!
#220
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)

My opinion is they are a fair race day tire that can handle a 21.5 on a 1/8 scale asphalt track, but they won't last too much longer. No special set ups for the tires were necessary, even though track temps were rather cool (70 degrees F)
#221
Tech Rookie
#222
Tech Apprentice
#223

I just ran my F1 for the first time and while everything was pretty good I have a question. First, the track was fresh asphalt. I used sauce on the tires which were Shimizu 572 rear and Tamiya front. The car turns in very hard and fast. I have adjusted the transmitter to reduce the dual rate and increase the steering exponential. This helped to a point. I ended up at 75% DR and -25% EXP. I still felt it turned in too hard and fast for my driving style. Should I try to increase the caster next? What about adding more toe-out?
#224

I guess referal to this: 1/12 forum